Our 15 Favorite Things about Japan

1. Cleanliness
Japan's Shintoesque identity has made the Japanese perhaps the cleanest people on earth. Regardless of where you travel in Japan, the natives are well-groomed, neat, and spotlessly clean. This extends to streets, homes, office buildings, wherever!

2. Geisha Culture
A private geisha dinner with a Geiko (geisha in Kyoto), Maiko (apprentice geiko), and Jikatu (instrument-playing geiko), is an other worldly experience. While being served a scrumptious multi-course kaiseki dinner, you are serenaded with traditional Japanese song and dance. Separately, Zen feels her geisha "makeover" is among her most "awesome" experiences in Japan.

3. Japan's Railway System
Similar to so much of Japan, its railway/shinkansen (bullet) transport system is meticulously efficient, immaculately clean, very fast, and completely reliable. If only we had shinkansen in the states! We particularly love the First Class N700 Green Cars - ergonomic seating with an unbelievably smooth ride!

4. Japan's bathroom culture
Toto's automated toilets/washlets make Japan's bathroom culture most unique, perhaps a further expression of Shinto clealiness/hygiene. These toilets are amazing - all-spraying, all deoderizing, with oscillating heated massage! Bev, Zen and I agree that the Toto washlet is a fun, hands-free, spa-like bathroom experience. This is another bonus for staying at the Peninsula!

5. Sum0 Wrestling
If you are unable to make one of the bi-monthly Sumo wrestling tournaments, a private morning Sumo wrestling practice session is the next best thing - followed by a Chanko breakfast with the wrestlers!

6. Wabi-sabi aesthetic
The Japanese worldview/state of mind emphasizing simplicity and purity - the beauty and awe of all things humble, imperfect, unpretentious.

7. Anime (and manga)
Bev, Zen and I are all big anime (Japanese animated film) fans, particularly as manifested in the Ghibli Museum, west of Tokyo in Mataka. Ghibli features the work of Academy award-winning filmmaker, Hayao Miyazaki ("spirited Away"). Ghibli is a kid's animation wonderland!

8. Onsen (natural hot springs)
Whether indoors or outdoors, Japan's ubiquitous hot springs are a national treasure, relaxing, therapeutic, cathartic. Gora Kadan in Hakone is our favorite!

9. Shinto shrines/Buddhist temples
Fushimi-inari (our favorite!) and Heian Jingu in Kyoto, and Meiji in Tokyo; Kiyomizudera ("Pure Water Temple"), Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion), Nanzenji (Zen's favorite) in Kyoto, and, of course, Todaiji in Nara.

10. High-touch (luxury) ryokans)
Amazingly, two of the most famous ryokans (Japanese inns) in Kyoto are located directly across the alleyway from each other. It's difficult to distinguish Tawaraya from Hiiragiya - they both represent the very highest levels of high-touch service. Both ryokans successfully integrate the finest Japanese traditions and wabi-sabi philosophy with contemporary conveniences that seasons travelers expect.

11. Japanese (matcha) green tea
The highest quality of all green teas, matcha (MA-cha) is a fine, powdered Japanese green tea, originally conceived by Chan Buddhists in China. Matcha is an integral part of the Japanese tea ceremony and a very special treat when visiting Japan. All hail matcha!

12. Japanese food, in all of its variety!
Sushi, tempura, robata, soba, kaiseki dinners.

13. Japanese vending machine craze
Japan is the vending machine epicenter of the world - clean, reliable and pervasive throughout the country. You can get just about anything in Japan's vending machines: food (including hot ramen), alcohol, soft dinrks, even fresh eggs, umbrellas and lingerie!

14. White-gloved taxi service
We always look forward to experiencing Japan's meticulously clean and efficient taxi service, particularly the drivers' clean, white gloves and white lace seat covers.

15. Japanese Professional Baseball
Enthusiastic, yet perfectly choreographed participation by the fans, attending a professional Japanese baseball game makes one feel American-style baseball is comparatively eneventful. Coordinated cheering and towel waving, deafening roar of the crowds, and, of course, the ubiquitous stadium "beer girls" make baseball in Japan so much fun!

Burma Brief

Notwithstanding the bad press generated by its repressive ruling military junta, we still feel Burma to be among our favorite places in all of Asia.

100 years ago Rudyard Kipling visited Burma and “thought it quite unlike any land you know about.”

Burma has changed little since colonial times.

Burma is best described as a product of times past – an endearing, leisurely charm and innocence that was perhaps pervasive throughout S.E. Asia fifty years ago. Unlike the rest of Asia, however, Burma has remained reclusive, especially since military junta imposed its rule over the country in 1988.

Due in part to Burma’s self-imposed isolation, Western influence, particularly the grittier commercial aspects, are not to be found here. You will see few Burmese dressed in Western garb and you will see no Starbucks or McDonald's here.

Despite the widespread adoption of Buddhism, the pre-Buddhist practice of nat (spirit) worship is ubiquitous throughout much of everyday Burma. Traditional beliefs encompass a spirit world inhabited by a cast of supernatural beings, none more important than nats, mischievous little spirits that can wreak havoc if not placated with offerings of flowers, food, and money.

Similar to other Southeast Asian countries, Burma is a land of little smiling faces. We are particularly drawn to the young Burmese women displaying their thanaka applied faces. Thanaka, a type of sandalwood paste, is used as a beauty mark as well as a sun protector for many Burmese children and young women.

Our 12 Favorite Things in Hong Kong (Randy, Bev, & Zen Lynch) – Fall 2009

1. Hong Kong Skyline/Victoria Harbor
Hong Kong’s expansive skyline, including so much world-class architecture (Bank of China Building being our favorite!), set in the backdrop of Victoria Harbor, makes this panorama perhaps the most wondrous in all the world. (The nightly “Symphony of Lights” is a must-see!)

2. Hong Kong’s unabashed sense of status consciousness/consumerism.
If you’re looking for a sense of spirituality or transcendental self-awareness, Hong Kong may not be the place for you. As Taiwanese essayist Lung Yingtai has noted: “In Hong Kong, economic benefit is the core value for all decision-making and development is the sole ideology.” This is a city of hyper-drive commerce where it seems material success is everyone’s ultimate goal.

3. The Star Ferry
Dating back to 1880, the plain green and white Star Ferry vessels cross Victoria Harbor throughout the day and night between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon. Perhaps the best transport value in the world – Hong Kong’s spectacular skyline/harbor views for a cost of approx. USD1 per person!

4. The very best luxury hotels in the world
The Mandarin, the Peninsula, the Four Seasons, the Intercontinental, the new Upper House, too many to name. Bev, Zen and I all feel no other city can match Hong Kong in terms of the number of high-touch 5 star deluxe luxury hotels. The service culture here is innate, almost genetic.

5. Lan Kwai Fong night-life
We always love returning to the trendy, chic Lan Kwai Fong area for great restaurants, night-clubs, and a high-energy group dynamic. Its two main streets, D’Aguilar and Lan Kwai Fong, are packed with office workers, expats, and local shakers enjoying the restaurants, bars and shops. Good for singles and families alike!

6. Hong Kong’s unique (walking) neighborhoods
Hollywood Road (antiques), Gough Street in Central (hip alternative to expat-dominated SOHO), Sheung Wan (one of Hong Kong’s oldest original settlements), Mong Kok (residential/industrial area including Bird Market and many shops catering to local Chinese), Midlevels (residential area with world’s largest series of escalators), Herbal Market (Chinese herbal drugstores and doctor consultations), Stanley Market (cheap, touristy shopping!). Many amazing neighborhoods for walking and people-watching!

7. Unique, wonderful private clubs
China Club, Halo, Azure, Volar, Club 71 – take your pick!

8. Wonderful variety of food!
Hong Kong is world capital for all foodies. World-class standards and variety of outstanding restaurants – Bo Innovation, Caprice, Halo, Goccia, Felix, Kin’s Kitchen, Indochine 1929, dim sum at traditional Luk Yu Teahouse or with a contemporary twist at Kee Club.

9. Asia-based high-end shopping
Shanghai Tang, Joyce, Douglas Young’s G.O.D. (Goods of Desire), all among Bev and Zen’s favorites!

10. Macau and Hong Kong Helicopter Getaway/Sightseeing
Quick trip to Asia’s new luxury Sin City with a spectacular view from above or stay in Hong Kong with helicopter sightseeing from the helipad atop the Peninsula.

11. A private Junk cruise along Victoria Harbor, along with a BBQ dinner. (So much fun and spectacular scenery!)

12. Hong Kong International Airport
Our favorite airport in all of Asia – meticulously clean and efficient, shopping, restaurants, transport – Hong Kong Airport has it all! It has been named world’s best airport seven out of the last eight years (from SKYTRAX).

Failure as Viewed in the U.S. vs. Japan

In America failure is viewed in perhaps transformational terms, with examples of people overcoming calamities, physical, emotional, and financial, and coming out better for it in the end.

Japan draws a distinct contrast to the American model. Peter Goodman, reporting in the NY Times 09-06-09, writes that in Japan "failure traditionally carries a deeper stigma, an enduring shame that limits the appetite for risk in the view of many of the nation's cultural observers. This makes the Japanese form less comfortable with choices that increase the prospect for failure, even if they promise greater potential gains."

Air China increases stake in Cathay Pacific to 30%

Cathay Pacific, among our favorite, high-touch carriers in Asia has become a bigger interest of China. Air China, mainland China's largest airline, raised its stake in Cathay Pacific Airways to 30%. Swire Pacific Ltd., the Hong Kong-based conglomerate with British roots and Cathay's biggest shareholder, raised its own to 42%.

The share purchases by Swire and Air China on Monday are the maximum stakes that the two companies could purchase without triggering a requirement under Hong Kong law to bid for the whole of Cathay, according to Christopher Pratt, chairman of Swire and Cathay. Mr. Pratt said Monday that the new shareholding wouldn't affect strategy and management at Cathay, and underscored Swire's commitment to remain the single largest shareholder in the airline.

Japan's Bathroom Culture (TOTO S400!)

TOTO's advanced S400 "Intuitive" washlet takes Japan's unique Shintoesque bathroom culture to a whole new level, with an automatic hands-free flushing system and sensor-activated lid that automatically lifts as you approach the toilet. At your command, using the remote control LCD panel, you may control the aerated warm water, with front and rear washing, and, of course, warm air drying with a variable temperature setting. Bev, Zen, and I all agree that the TOTO washlet is a fun, hands-free, spa-like bathroom experience. This is another bonus for those staying at the Peninsula Tokyo!

How to Visit a Shinto Shrine

Purify yourself by washing your hands and mouth at a water place. It is called a “Chosuya,” and almost all shrines have it.

Dip up water and pour over the left hand and then over the right one.

Rinse out your mouth and be sure that your does not directly touch the dipper.

Wash the dipper.

How to make a wish to gods at Shinto Shrine

Throw a coin into the offertory box.

Bow twice.

Clap your hands twice and make a wish during the series of this last motion.

Bow again.

www.howcast.com

Smile-checking in Japan!

Just read an amazing update from The Economist . Keihin Electric Express Railway in Japan is requiring its staff to check their smiles every morning using a computer software called Smile Scan (modeling OMRON Corp). Workers have their grins scored from 1-100 and are given advice on how to improve them. Later in the day they are able to get a print-out of their best smile, which they can use for future improvement. Let's get this in the U.S.! -Randy

COSO Orphanage

Notwithstanding our severe economic downturn. most of us are still blessed beyond compare to those orphaned overseas. To get a fresh perspective pleaes note the donation plea from Sean Samnang, Director of COSO Orphanage in Siem Reap, Cambodia - no wasted funds here!

"Nowadays, we are very lacking the budgets for support the children, and request to help from all. Please you all to make small donation to help us by possible who can.

With lists has to spend! We provide have three meals a day, for monthly need to spent $ 1,950 USD for food , $ 126.50 US for Ingredient of cook, $ 90.00 US for wood charcoal, $ 80.00 US for sweets, $ 21. 75 US for toothbrush, $ 50.75 US for fluoride, $ 38.70 US for soap, $ 20.00 US for washing dishes, $10.00 US for toilet washing, $ 37.50 for washing clothes, $ 150.00 USD for rented land, $ 253.50 USD on fee school, $ 100.00 USD for medical supplies, $ 323.20 USD for gasoline and $ 139.00 USD on services of Internet every month. In total, $ 113.03 USD is spent a day, $ 791.21 USD is spent per week and $ 3,390.90 USD is spent for a month.

$113/day, $791/week, $3390/month"

To make a donation to the COSO Orphanage, visit www.cosocambodia.org

On their website, we can see a picture of the "motor-drag tuk-tuk" vehicle that our donation allowed them to purchase! (www.cosocambodia.org/donation) Something so small can make such a big difference in the lives of the children.

Yokiro Takita’s “Okuribito” (Departures) film a compelling glimpse into Japan’s culture and view of death.

Bev and I feel the recently released Japanese film “Departures” is a wonderful window into Japan’s Shinto/Buddhist-centered culture, especially in terms of the Japanese view of death. The film evolves around the experiences of an apprentice nokanshi (“encoffining master”), a professional who cleans and clothes a body before cremation or burial. The film vividly shows the nokanshi carefully and very respectfully dressing up the deceased, in full view of the survivors/relatives, with compassion and a meticulous, artful professional touch.

A nokanshi is not really a mortician or an undertaker, but perhaps a gatekeeper/facilitator from the world of the living to the next spiritual realm. After watching this thoroughly engrossing film, one can argue that the Japanese outlook on death makes a lot of sense. Seeing deceased family members made up like wax mannequins at funeral wakes, I feel the more natural and beautiful aesthetic created by the nokanshi makes for a wonderful final journey from this world.

- Randy & Bev Lynch

Restoring peace to heart of Shanghai

Illuminating article in Financial Times, 05/26/09, regarding the newly renovated Peace Hotel in Shanghai. - Randy Lynch

For years, Shanghai has happily smothered its past in skyscrapers, each one taller, flashier and more futuristic than the last. But now it is looking backward. The city that ran an 11-lane highway down the middle of the Bund, riverside heart of colonial Shanghai, is rebuilding the art deco Peace Hotel, its famous landmark and a symbol of all that was playful and decadent in old Shanghai.

In typically Chinese defiance of both the global economic crisis and a glut of Shanghai luxury hotel rooms, the Peace Hotel is to reopen in March as a luxury hostelry, managed by Fairmont, the historic hotel operator. The money for the Rmb500m ($73m, €52m, £46m) restoration comes from the owner, Jin Jiang group, which is majority owned by the Shanghai government.

Balancing the needs of profit and preservation makes this one of the most challenging, and closely watched, historical restoration efforts in China. If the project succeeds, and the renamed Fairmont Peace Hotel becomes a commercially viable property, it could encourage more preservation of old Shanghai, according to local restoration experts. The Peace Hotel survived wartime bombs, Japanese occupation and Communist takeover: but some Chinese heritage experts worry that it will not survive a brush with capitalism.

The hotel’s pedigree is impeccable: brainchild and plaything of Victor Sassoon, the British-Iraqi trader of opium, guns and Shanghai property, it opened as the Cathay Hotel in 1929 and was the most luxurious hotel in Asia. Charlie Chaplin stayed there: one of his photographs even provided historical material for the restoration, according to Professor Ruan Yisan, consultant to the Shanghai government’s historical preservation commission. Noel Coward finished Private Lives while staying there.

From its Lalique glass shaving mirrors to its opulent “Nine Nations Suites” – from Indian, Georgian and Chinese to German, French and Italian – the hotel helped make Shanghai famous in the 1930s. When it opened, sceptics predicted failure, as Shanghai already had too many hotel rooms, says Peter Hibbard, official historian to the restoration project. “They were all proved wrong, as the hotel ... heralded a new era for Shanghai.”

But by 2007 – though foreign tourists still made the nostalgic journey to the fusty old landmark where rooms cost about $100 a night – the hotel was overcome by damp and decay. Its signature Old Jazz Band was still playing pre-war favourites, with some of the original octogenarian musicians. But Jia Xue Tai, saxophonist for the band – which now plays at another Shanghai hotel until it can return to the restored Peace Hotel – remembers burst water pipes leaking on them.

But reinstating the Old Jazz Band will be easy compared with the task of restoring the hotel’s interior. Ian Carr of Hirsch Bedner Associates, designers of the restoration, says everything from furnishings to faucets has disappeared and the hotel has had several botched renovations.

“There is no way of telling what was original,” he says. The restorers advertised for information but even getting the original blueprints was hard. Luckily, ceilings were out of reach “they couldn’t knock them down or take them out ... so they just covered them up,” he says, noting that the hotel’s octagonal glass rotunda, covered by gypsum board for decades, will be a centrepiece of the restoration.

Balancing the demands of the hotel’s Chinese state-controlled owners, Jin Jiang International Hotels, and the foreign-owned operators, Fairmont Hotels, has also been tricky. Fairmont wants “a repositioning, not a restoration,” he says, adding “they don’t want a dowdy museum piece.”

But Yang Weimin, CEO of Jin Jiang International Hotels, says the company must abide by historical preservation laws. A new building will be built at the back of the hotel to house a swimming pool, spa and large lifts.

But Lu Jiansong, of Shanghai Fudan University’s Department of Cultural Heritage and Museology, says he worries that a restoration driven by profit will not honour the historical value of this national treasure.

“The Peace Hotel belongs to the state, not to Shanghai, not to Jin Jiang and not to foreign investors,” he says.

By the time the Peace Hotel reopens, most of the Bund’s traffic will have been diverted to an underground tunnel and a new riverside promenade will have been built. It will be an important step toward realising the tourism potential of Shanghai’s historic Bund, neglected for decades.

Today, I Have Lived

I was reminded by our daughter, Zen, of our singular amazing day in Kyoto this past April, including our private geisha dinner that we shared with our dear friends, the Xu Family. This wonderful day was driven home to me by an article I read from Harry Eyres of the Financial Times. His reference to a lovely poem by the Roman poet/philosopher Horace is a succinct description of a single perfect day:

"All power and joy to that man who can say, 'today, in this day, I have lived'; tomorrow may bring rain or sun, but nothing can undo, or render worthless, what the fleeting, unrepeatable hour has brought."

- Randy Lynch

ANA Service

Bev, Zen, Sofia and I were most impressed with ANA's Chicago-Tokyo 777 in-flight service. Similar to the Shinto/Buddhist-centered culture ANA represents, the service among the all Japanese crew was kind, respective, and completelely attentive. Noteworthy observations in Premium Economy:

• We loved the curry chicken entree and the tasty & healthy "soy" snack bars!
• Zen and Sofia took special note of the Haagen Dazs ice cream treats at the end of dinner
• Great audio/video selection with over 20 movies to choose from

Of course, even after a ponderous 12hr flight, the ANA lavatories were spotlessly Shintoesque clean!

We love Japan in the springtime!

The Lynch Family (Randy, Bev, Zen, and Cousin Sofia) has just returned from our annual spring break trip to Japan. This has to rate as our best Japan trip ever! Ghibli, origami, maiko dress-up, sakura (cherry blossoms), private Geisha dinner, the best ryokans in all of Japan, and, of course, traveling with our dear friends, the Xu Family – Jay Xu, the Director of the Asia Art Museum and his lovely wife Jennifer and engaging daughter, Toni. Japan’s unique Shinto-Buddhist-centered culture and other-worldly wabi-sabi aesthetic truly separates this land from any other in the world. By the way, Japan may be the cleanest country on the planet!

HIGHLIGHTS OF OUR TOKYO, HAKONE/KYOTO-NARA CUSTOM TOUR

TOKYO

- The Peninsula Tokyo feels like our Japan home away from home – the staff is so friendly and warm-hearted. Although Bev and I appreciate the sleek design and amenities of our room overlooking the Imperial Palace grounds, Zen and Sofia are convinced the Peninsula’s hot chocolate is the best in Asia!

- Hibiya Park, directly across the street from the Peninsula, is the perfect respite from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo. Our mornings started with a walk through the park’s lush gardens for beautiful cherry blossom views.

- Ghibli Museum (west of Tokyo in Mitaka) is perhaps the most interesting fine-arts museum in all of Japan, featuring the Japanese anime (Japanese animated film) work of Academy award-winning filmmaker, Hayao Miyazaki (“Spirited Away”). This was a euphoric experience for Zen, Sofia and Toni – Ghibli is a kid’s animation wonderland!

- Origami – All of us enjoyed the private one hour origami lesson we arranged at Origami Kaikan. We created fish, our elaborate Christmas tree, talking “lips”, and even a dragon. Although assimilated and refined in Japan, origami was actually introduced to Japan via 6th century Chinese Buddhist monks. The shop at Origami Kada is a treasury of origami related papers and gifts.

HAKONE/GORA KADAN RYOKAN

A short 45-minute bullet train ride from Tokyo, Hakone is a world apart from the big city in terms of the lush, green mountainous environment and its rejuvenating onsen (hot mineral springs).

Our sole purpose in traveling to Hakone was to make a brief relaxation stopover at the amazing Gora Kadan Ryokan – we loved this place! Proprietress Mikawako, the third generation of Fujimotos to run Gora Kadan, has blended traditional Japanese ryokan hospitality with modern Western design in creating a luxurious ryokan spa experience. The Gora Kadan’s original building dates back to 300 years and was the summer home of the Kan’in-No-Miya imperial family.

Gora Kadan was Zen and Sofia’s introduction to a “public” onsen at the ryokan’s main natural hot springs bath area. Following a brief “public” soaking, they retreated to our room with its own private granite open mineral springs bath, fed by the Gora Kadan’s natural springs. With its airy east-west fusion aesthetic, its wonderful (Kaiseki) food service, and total relaxation spa, Gora Kadan is definitely on our A-list for high-touch ryokans in Japan.

THE NEW JR GREEN CAR (N700) BULLET TRAIN

We were most impressed with the new First Class (Green Car) N700 series Shinkansen “bullet” train to Kyoto-Osaka. With its large and improved ergonomic designed seats, LED reading lights and futuristic design, this next-generation rail service is an amazing experience. Its advanced “tilting” capabilities allow the N700 to cruise smoothly up to 186 mph. Think of our advanced jet aircraft on rails! Still, Zen is more impressed with the tasty “Ekiben” station lunchboxes.

KYOTO (THE ONE AND ONLY!)

We feel Kyoto represents the cultural and aesthetic essence of Japan; amazing Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples, the highest quality ryokans, geisha culture, wonderful food, and in April, sakura (cherry blossoms)! And Kyoto at night, particularly in the lantern-lit streets of Gion, is magical and wondrous. There is literally no place on earth like Kyoto.

HANAMI (CHERRY BLOSSOM VIEWING)

From our 2-night base at the Hyatt Regency Kyoto (think Frank Lloyd Wright aesthetic with Japanese refinement) we ventured out our first night for some celebratory “hanami” (cherry blossoms viewing) in Maruyama Park. With all of the remarkable food/game stalls and, of course, the famous weeping cherry tree, this was a fun and amusing night for Zen and Sofia.

TODAI-JI TEMPLE, NARA DEER PARK, AND FUSHIMI-INARI

Today we were re-united with the Xu Family (Jay, Jennifer, and Toni) for two days of exploration, fellowship, and good times! For the next two days we were trusted with our favorite Kyoto guide, Izumi-san. She is simply the best!

Our travels today took us out to Nara and the most impressive Todai-ji Temple (Japan’s largest Buddhist temple within the world’s largest wooden building) and to adjacent Nara Deer Park. Although we were again over-run with the deer feeding, Zen, Sofia and Toni enjoyed every moment! En-route back to Kyoto we stopped at our favorite Shinto shrine, Fushimi-Inari (think of Memoirs of a Geisha!). Dating back to the 8th century. Following a hike up Fushimi’s pathway, Zen, Sofia and Toni wrote their prayers on the wooden blocks at the shrine’s entrance.

MAIKO DRESS UP!

Today was “Geisha” day for the girls! In Kyoto, they do not use the word Geisha, but “Geiko” instead. A younger, apprentice Geiko is called a “Maiko”. A quick way to tell the difference between a Geiko and a Maiko is that the older Geiko always wears a white neck collar.

Today was very exciting because Zen, Sofia and Toni were all made up as Maiko - yes, real Maiko with all the make-up, the wig hair, and beautiful kimonos. Hannah Montana eat your heart out! It took over an hour to prepare their make-up, hair, and kimonos. They were later able to walk down the street like real Maiko in the Gion district. It was unreal!


PRIVATE GEISHA DINNER/ENTERTAINMENT

This was one of the truly special and unique high-lights of our Japan private tour. While being served a delicious multi-course kaiseki dinner at Mitoko in the Gion district, we were graciously hosted by two Geiko and one Maiko. The older Geiko, Yumi-san, played a shamisen, an old Japanese musical instrument that looks like a banjo with a long neck. The younger Geiko, Hisano-san, and the Meiko, Mitsuna-san, performed traditional dancing for us. The dancing was so gentle and beautiful. After our long Kaiseki dinner, Hisano-san and Mitsuna-san taught us some traditional Japanese parlor games to play. Zen will try to teach these to her classmates at Francis Parker School! The most fun game was konpira fune-fune (“slapping box” game). Although too complex to explain, this was great fun!

HIIRAGIYA RYOKAN

We stayed at Tawaraya Ryokan last year, directly across the alleyway from our chosen ryokan this year, Hiiragiya. Improbably, two of the most famous luxury ryokans in all of Japan stand directly across from each other! A stay at either Hiiragiya or Tawaraya represents a complete 24-hour high-touch immersion with traditional Japanese culture.

Enclosed in a traditional sukiya style wooden structure, Hiiragiya was conceived in 1818 when Hiiragiya, a seafood dealer, began providing accommodation to traveling merchants. Later, Hiiragiya welcomed many members of the imperial family including writers/governing officials/international celebrities.

Our two families shared a lovely kaiseki dinner together, served on traditional kiyomizu pottery, with each course exquisitely prepared with an understated aesthetic.

We give an A+ to both the Tawaraya and Hiiragiya, although we feel Hiiragiya is perhaps more accommodating and open to Western eccentricities.

CONCLUSION

Although only eight days, this particular Japan trip turned out to be one of our most rewarding trips ever! Extraordinary fun with dear friends, Jay, Jennifer and Toni, geiko/maiko experience, the girls’ makeover, Shinto/Buddhist culture, sushi and kaiseki, origami, world-class transportation, and among the very best ryokan/hotels in all of Japan.

In the final analysis I feel Japan is an extraordinary family/friends travel destination. Notwithstanding my love for China, Southeast Asia, and India, I admit to a special longing for Japan. On top of its other-worldly culture and scrupulously clean, world-class infrastructure, Japan is easy to prepare for. No visas or shots required – just a valid U.S. passport and some precious time to spend with your family and friends.

In terms of weather conditions, we recommend travel to Japan in April-June or September-October.

We look forward to serving you!

Randy Lynch
CEO
Kipling & Clark

Our Kaiseki Dinner Menu from Hiiragiya - April 11, 2009

Menu of Hiiragiya Kaiseki
April, 2009

Aperitif (Shokuzen-Shu) Original white peach cocktail

The first appetizer (Sakizuke)
Yuba (skin of soybean milk), Sea urchin, Yam, Wasabi
Pea-Tofu, Lily bulb, Broad bean
Boiled abalone, Taro stem, Bofu parsley, Liver of abalone sauce

Simmered Dishes (Nimono-Wan)
Clear soup with wrap Greenling in Kudzu starch, Paste of white fish and
mugwort, Hosta, carrot, Yuzu citrus

Sashimi Dishes (Mukouzuke)
Sea bream, Tuna, Japanese spiny lobster, Bracken, Carrot, Red water pepper,
Wasabi leaf, Japanese white radish, Wasabi

The second appetizer (Hassun)
Ark shell seasoned with vinegar and miso, Prawn, Burdock root wrapped in
conger eel, UDO-edible, Sea bream bound together with egg, Royal fern,
Boiled firefly squid, Canola blossom bods

Grilled Dishes (Yukizakana) - Please choose between one of these two -
- Grilled trout pickled in sake lees, Asparagus, Bamboo shoot, Butter bur leaf

- Grilled beef, Asparagus, Onion, Red bell pepper, PON-ZU (sauce containing
soy sauce and citrus juice), Yuzu citrus and green pepper with a mixture of
salt, Mix up tomato and Miso

Simmered Dishes (Takiawase)
Bamboo shoot, Rockfish, Wakame seaweed, Japanese butterbur, KINOME

Deep-fried Dishes (Age-Mono)
Baby sweetfish, Koshiabura-edible, wild plants, MANGANZI-sweet green
pepper, Shiitake mushroom, Sauce for dipping tempura, Salt

Soup (Tome-Wan)
Clear soup with FU (wheat gluten), Mibuna cress

Rice (Gohan)
Steamed sushi of edible wild plant -Gyozyaniniku-long freen onion, Horsetail,
Mountain fern sprouts-, Shredded omelet, Pea

Pickles (Kou-No-Mono)
KYOUSAKURA (cucumber and eggplant pickled with cherry blossom and
leaves)< style="font-weight: bold;">Dessert (Mizu-Mono) Melon, Strawberry, Mint

That “Wabi-sabi” (Japan) Feeling

Within the context of our private, custom travel experiences, we have been blessed with opportunities to explore the many prisms and facets of Japan’s truly singular culture.

A big part of Japan’s uniqueness is its wabi-sabi aesthetic. Wabi-sabi is a Japanese worldview/state-of-mind emphasizing simplicity and purity – the beauty and awe of all things humble, unpretentious and imperfect. In a recent university commencement speech, singer/songwriter John legend defines the meaning of "soul" - he defines "soul" as authenticity, about finding things in your life that are real and pure. Perhaps unknowingly, John Legend is referring to wabi-sabi. My conception of wabi-sabi is a beautiful sunset, the still morning frost, a graceful and simple Japanese tea ceremony. It’s a sort of subtle, unspoken beauty, like Katherine Hepburn vs. Marilyn Monroe (our friend at United Airlines, Suzanne Wahl, feels a more contemporary comparison is Kate Winslet vs. Angelina Jolie). Wabi-sabi, in essence, is savoring all of one’s daily simple pleasures. Wabi-sabi parallels the basic concept of Zen Buddhism in that intuitive insight is considered a more critical force than intellectual deliberation. This Japanese lifeview perhaps contributes to the country’s deep sense of egalitarianism, with one seeing few outward signs of wealth in this wonderful land.

Randy Lynch

Zen’s Excellent Adventure & It’s Time to Help

Hello everyone, it’s Zen!

A lot of classmates and friends have asked me about our fun family trips to Japan, China, and so many parts of Southeast Asia. The trips are awesome!! I know my dad sends our trip pictures out on the Kipling & Clark Newsletters, but let me tell you the pictures cannot tell you how much fun we really have – Google times 100!! I say every kid should hang out with elephants for a day in Thailand, spend time with your own panda in China, or have your own private dinner with Geishas and dress up in Japan – sorry Hannah Montana, Asia travel’s got you beat!!

Our trip to Cambodia this last February was also fun, but in a different way. My family and I saved some money to take to the COSO Orphanage and Wat Po Krom Grade School. My dad even arranged for two of the kids at the orphanage (Mary and Sophaek) to travel with us in Siem Reap. The day we visited the orphanage reminded me how lucky I am. My mom and dad love me, I go to a great school, and I never worry about what to eat or what nice clothes to wear. All the kids at COSO seemed happy and friendly when they performed their beautiful Khmer dance for us. I felt bad, though, when I saw how they all slept together in a large room on small, thin mattresses. It was sad for me. When I gave our family’s donation to Mr. Samnang at the orphanage, I think that made me feel a little bit better.

Mr. Samnang later sent us an e-mail to say he bought a new motor for their tuk-tuk with our donation. I remember I saw the tuk-tuk at the orphanage – it looked in bad shape. With the new motor, the orphanage can now take the kids to the local schools every day. My sadness has turned to happiness for my new friends at COSO!

I urged my dad to make visits and donations to Asia orphanages and grade schools a regular part of our Kipling & Clark private tours. He agrees it’s a good idea! All of us can really help make a BIG difference when traveling to Asia and make a lot of kids a little happier.

Well, back to my homework!

Yours truly,
Zen Lynch/World Traveler, age 8

Altruistic Travel

Based on the current global economic downturn, our need to reach out to those suffering and less fortunate than ourselves becomes much more acute. Although our clients choose to travel to Asia within the context of a custom, luxury experience, they also ask for transformative, life-changing activities where support for a local orphanage, grade school, or water well project makes a real change to people’s lives. Kind-heartedness and generosity to others is a universal attribute we all aspire to.

Bev, Zen, and I agree that our brief February 2009 Vietnam/Cambodia 7 day trip was instructional, especially in terms of the tangible ways we can improve the everyday lives of those wonderful children in Cambodia. We have integrated optional visits to various orphanages and grade schools for all of our clients embarking on our Southeast Asia private tours. Among all of the various custom activities we plan for our clients, these authentic, eye-opening visits give travelers the opportunity to connect and give back to those much less fortunate than ourselves. Notwithstanding the current severe world economic downturn, many of us in the U.S. are truly blessed with much opportunity, particularly compared to so many in Southeast Asia.

Our following 7 day Vietnam/Cambodia trip illustrates the way we have integrated altruism with our custom Asia private tours.

Spring Break Trip to Vietnam & Cambodia

Greetings friends!

The Lynch family (Bev, our 8 year-old daughter, Zennia, and I) is back home in Chicago after a whirlwind 7-day Spring Break trip to Vietnam/Cambodia. Although one of our shortest, this particular trip to Asia turned out to be the most emotionally gratifying. Our experience with the COSO Orphanage and Wat Po Krom Grade School were awe-inspiring and indelible. The following is a brief re-cap of our 7 day trip:

February 15 - Saigon (via UA 895/869)

Hats off to UA for their new, innovative Lie-Flat Beds in Business Class – as Zen remarked, “Awesome!” Bev & Zen thoroughly enjoyed the expanded entertainment package (150 hours of movies, games!) viewed from the large +15” monitors. I settled for the full 180º truly lie-flat beds and the impressive LED reading light (similar to Japan’s First Class Green Car Bullet train seats’ lighting).

Similar to our past visits, our overnight at the Park Hyatt Saigon was restful and completely predictable: personal and meticulously attentive service. The room service, the spa, and concierge are all Asia world class, similar to the Mandarin in Hong Kong or any number of Four Seasons properties in the Pacific Rim. I particularly like the properties’ luxurious rugs: the perfect padding and firmness for morning stretching/exercises!

February 16 - Saigon/Hanoi

After a brief stop at one of Bev’s favorite Saigon modern art studios, we made a quick look/see at the former residence of U.S. Ambassador Henry Cabot Lodge. We now use this beautiful French-colonial home for clients wishing special, private dinners/entertainment.

Following a short 2 hour flight to Hanoi (via Vietnam Airlines 777 Business Class), we checked into the lovely, nostalgic French colonial Sofitel Metropole. We always love staying here. I can honestly say that the Sofitel Metropole has no peer in Hanoi – simply the best!

February 17 - Halong Bay

Notwithstanding the long drive from Hanoi (3.5 hours), the uniqueness and beauty of Halong Bay is well worth the drive. As remarked previously, Halong Bay’s thousands of sculptured limestone karsts evoke a Guilinesque feeling, with the added dimension of gleaming blue/green waters.

Our 1-night/2-day Halong Bay cruise aboard the luxury junk Halong Ginger was a great way to recover from any lingering effects of our jetlag. With only 24 cabins, the Halong Ginger service is personal and intimate, fostering a lively group dynamic among the varied group of international guests. The local seafood and freshly prepared Vietnamese vegetables were outstanding! Zen loved the foot massages!

February 18 - Halong Bay/Hanoi/Siem Reap (Cambodia)

Following our drive back to Hanoi (with our trusted guide, ‘Tiger” and driver Pluoc) and a short flight to Siem Reap, Cambodia, we spent the night at Amansara, formerly the guesthouse of King Sihanouk. Well-known by many of our clients and friends, Aman Resorts represent the pinnacle of world-class luxury hotel/resort hospitality. While Peninsula and Four Seasons rule the 5 star deluxe hotel category, Aman, alone, occupies the very elite level; small, extreme high-touch, singular, and personal. Our Pool Suite was Zen’s early morning personal water park, with Zen splashing in the 6 x 5 meter private pool (at 6:00am!). The dinner (lamb shanks with noodles) and breakfast served to us at Amansara was simple, tasteful and extraordinary.

February 19 - Siem Reap – COSO Orphanage

We have visited the various temples of Angkor on previous trips including Angkor Wat, Angkor Tom and Banteay Srei. I feel the various temples of Angkor represent the most amazing and enduring architectural achievement of any religious site in Asia. However, this visit to Cambodia was planned for Zen’s altruistic activities.

As previously arranged Bev, Zen and I were introduced early to our two travel companions from COSO Orphanage, 9 year-old Mary and 10 year-old Sopheak. Spending two days with these two lovely children was among the true blessings of our trip. Though limited English, Mary and Sopheak established a wonderful chemistry/rapport with Zen – their smiles and laughter were intoxicating – of course a morning swim and large-fries/shakes at the Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor did not hurt!


We were all later driven out to COSO Orphanage. Upon arriving at the orphanage, we were quite surprised to see the entire orphanage and staff gathered at the entrance for a happy, boisterous, heartfelt welcoming. After touring the facilities, COSO's Director, Sean Samnang, brought us up to a make-shift stage for a Khmer/Cambodian dance performance by the orphanage's children. Although absent the ornate costumes featured by the Aspara dance performers back at the Raffles Grand Hotel D'Angkor, the precision and slow graceful style of the children dancing was amazing. Despite all of their obvious disadvantages, these kids took great pride in their Khmer culture and had spent countless hours practicing their craft. After the dancing concluded, Zen bestowed our donation to COSO Director, Mr. Samnang (including Zen's own $182). She also handed out the many stuffed animals she brought from Chicago to all the children. Bev, Zen and I were overwhelmed by the genuine gratefulness and heartfelt appreciation the COSO Orphanage kids and staff extended to us on this bright sunny day. I cannot recall a more inspiring and gratifying afternoon.

February 20 - Siem Reap

Our first stop today was Sre ChangHoat Village outside Siem Reap. As part of the Angkor Well Project, Zen was donating a water well on behalf of her Second Grade Class at Francis Parker School, to the families of Mr. Dong Ley and Mrs. Bo Rort.

Among our clients wishing to give back to those less fortunate, the Angkor well project has become immensely popular. For a cost of USD400-600 per pump/well, based on the size and the distance of the water well, one may donate a well, thus providing fresh drinking water to a local village. By most estimates, less than 31% of rural Cambodians have access to safe water. Clients donating to the Angkor Well Project make a real difference in the daily lives of rural Cambodian families.

Following our very emotional day at COSO Orphanage, Bev, Zen, Mary, Sopheak and I had no idea what was to follow the next day at Wat Po Krom Elementary School.

Amazingly, all 500 children of the school, along with the teachers and staff, had gathered at the school’s entrance to form a long procession line welcoming our party. As all of us walked down the line, the students celebrated our arrival with applause and a local Khmer welcome song. After visiting various classrooms, the school’s staff and students proudly presented to us the many supplies they had purchased with our donation – three tables full of knapsacks, pens/pencils, writing books. The sincere, smiling faces and pervasive signs of warmth and friendship were overwhelming. Despite our donation of school supplies, I felt the extraordinary display of respect and honor extended to us was quite undeserved, especially in light of Wat Po Krom School’s many, many needs.

Eric Raisina – Our favorite in Cambodia for high-end clothing/textiles!

Before leaving for the airport in Siem Reap, Bev, Zen and I made a stop at the home/workshop of Eric Raisina. A French-Madagascar native who has settled in Siem Reap, Eric Raisina has become quite noteworthy in international design circles with his distinctive Cambodian silk clothing and accessories. (“Haute-texture”) Eric selected a beautiful red silk scarf for Zen (perfect for Chicago winters!), while Bev purchased a dazzling white rafia skirt. Eric’s engaging personality coupled with his very compelling silk designs, makes him our new favorite for singular Southeast Asia silk textiles.

Bev, Zen, and I agree that our brief 7 day trip was instructional, especially in terms of the tangible ways we can improve the everyday lives of those wonderful children in Cambodia. We have integrated optional visits to various orphanages and grade schools for all of our clients embarking on our Southeast Asia private tours. Among all of the various custom activities we plan for our clients, these authentic, eye-opening visits give travelers the opportunity to connect and give back to those much less fortunate than ourselves. Notwithstanding the current severe world economic downturn, many of us in the U.S. are truly blessed with much opportunity, particularly compared to so many in Southeast Asia.

Japan/April Cherry Blossoms

With Zen’s second school spring break coming in April, we will be returning to Japan for cherry blossoms and a private geisha dinner and dress-up – updates to follow!

Best to all and safe travels!

Randy

Kids That Need Our Help...

As a fundamental part of our custom, private tour itineraries, we arrange for client visits to local schools and orphanages in Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, and Burma. Many of our clients, particularly the younger ones, find these activities eye-opening and truly authentic, a real-world contrast to their blessed, privileged life back in the U.S.

Based on the current global economic downturn, our need to reach out to those suffering and less fortunate than ourselves becomes much more acute. Although our clients choose to travel to Asia within the context of a custom, luxury experience, they also ask for transformative, life-changing activities where support for a local orphanage, grade school, or water well project makes a real change to people’s lives. Kind-heartedness and generosity to others is a universal attribute we all aspire to.

Along these lines, Bev, Zennia, and I will be returning to Cambodia this mid-February. We will be visiting one specific orphanage and a local elementary school outside Siem Reap (Angkor Wat). In both cases, there is much needed assistance for those lovely children. Once all has been qualified/vetted, we plan to focus our Southeast Asia philanthropic efforts on these two locations. After returning to Chicago, we will advise all of our friends and supporters of the institutions involved and what we can all do to improve the daily lives of these precious human beings.

- Randy Lynch

Over 60 Being Chic in Japan

Being a big fan of Tyler Brule, editor-in-chief of Monocle magazine and the Fast Lane article of the Financial Times, I was amused by his take on the new Japan magazine OilyBoy, targeting upwardly mobile men from mid-50’s age up. Please enjoy Tyler’s take on OilyBoy:

On the far side of the Pacific, in the new Book 1st megastore in Shinjuku, I stumbled upon what seemed like Japanese answer to Zoomer, only with the slightly more edgy title of OilyBoy. Anyone would be excused for thinking it was a particularly raunchy gay manga – yet OilyBoy couldn’t be more innocent. As its tagline boldly explains, this is a “magazine for elder boys”. Another stamp on the cover even confidently promoted that this was a venture brought to its readers “from old editors”. Inside, it was a slickly produced style magazine clearly created for a male consumer who grew up on trendy fashion mags from the late 1970s but was now looking to remix his personal style or even revisit parts of his wardrobe that he now thought fit for the charity shop.

Always quick to build on a trend, Japanese newsstands are heaving with Lohas (lifestyle of health and sustainability) titles, cosy parenting magazines that encourage young mums to wear smocks and potato-shaped shoes and dads to wear similar get-ups, magazines for 60-year-old women who behave like they might be turning 40 – and now there seems to be a growing shelf for graying men with titles such as Brio and Geothe sitting alongside OilyBoy.

Western titles venturing into the territory have failed either because of their cheesiness or patronizing tone and imager. Oilyboy, on the other hand, is a simple, commonsense guide to looking and acting your age. It gas also won support from advertisers who see their audience the same way and aren’t necessarily trying to flog the fountain of youth behind a series of different facades.

From front to back there were weathered surfers hanging out and cooking, 60-plus CEOs looking chic in Tuscan countryside-meets-New Hampshire weekend attire, illustrated shopping maps of Tokyo, loads of fashion tips, lots of recipes, the odd vintage car, the odd vintage guitar and plenty of pointers about essential winter footwear.

The cast of characters populating the pages were all acting their age, showed none of the tell-tale signs of perma-surprise that might suggest Botox or surgery and there was a sunny sense of optimism from cover to cover. I ended up adding OilyBoy to my stack of purchases because I spotted at least four shops I wanted to visit and there were plenty of shoes that I’d happily add to my closet.

OilyBoy actually made being over 60 a quite chic constituency to be a part of, and there wasn’t a virility advertisement or cheesy grin in sight. Given Japan’s rapidly graying population, it only makes sense that its publishers are leading the way with magazines that speak to a demographic that has considerable spending power and is also hyper-fashion conscious. The trick is that these publishers are having the same conversation they’ve always been having with their readers – only now they’re reshuffling and refining the looks and faces they put on page rather than dressing them up for a one-way trip to the nursing home.

According to the AARP:

“Oily Boy” is the actual nickname of the late Jiro Shirasu, once the coolest guy in Japan.

Tall, rich and movie-star handsome, Shirasu was educated at Cambridge University, where he drove a Bentley. After Japan’s defeat in World War II, his excellent English and smooth demeanor helped when he was called on to negotiate the terms of the U.S. occupation with Gen. Douglas MacArthur.

Shirasu was one of the first Japanese men of substance to allow himself to be photographed while hanging out in jeans. He owned and often tinkered with fine automobiles. On social occasions, his pants and shirts were sometimes stained with oil.

“That kind of man never forgets the ‘boy’ in him,” says the OilyBoy Declaration, which can be found in the magazine’s first edition. “The boys became not adults, but ‘elder boys.’ And that is why we cry out loud: We are Oily Boys.”

Kanno concedes that OilyBoy is not a perfect name for a fashion magazine aimed at 50-plus men, Not everyone of that vintage remembers Shirasu or his nickname or his cool. In fact, Kanno’s first choice as a name for the magazine was “Old Boy,” but a trademark dispute nixed that.

With 22 percent of the population already older then 65 (compared with about 12 percent in the United States), and with the old predicted to outnumber the young 4 to 1 by 2040, Japanese retailers, marketers and publishers are all trying to tease more purchases out of the elderly.

The government desperately wants them to succeed. It is trying to wean the economy from an unhealthy dependence on exports. Growth here depends almost entirely on exports, which have collapsed as part of the global economic downturn and are considered unlikely to come back for at least a year or two.

A government spokesman said last week that for Japan to bounce back, “we have to transform the shape of the economy from saving to spending,” adding: “There are elderly Japanese who are financially secure but refuse to spend.”

OilyBoy, however, is run by Kanno and a cadre of editors who 30 years ago invented a hugely successful men’s fashion magazine called Popeye. Its readers, like its editors, were then young.

“At OilyBoy, we think we can probably make fashion happen again,” Kanno said. “Our intent is to bring them back.”

OilyBoy tries to do so without triggering sticker shock. Instead of $6,000 suits, it features $500 sports jackets. Its male models are on the far side of 50 or 60. They look fit and healthy, but not insanely so. They are out at the beach or in big kitchens or with their beautiful daughters. They wear loose-fitting sports shirts, relaxed-fit shorts and sensible-looking shoes.

- Randy Lynch

Japan's Ryokan Culture

Somewhat reflecting Japan’s compelling insularity and high-touch egalitarianism, Japan’s ryokans (inns) embrace a hospitality culture that is truly unique. In contrast to the many 5-star deluxe hotels we have used throughout Asia, Japan’s traditional ryokans offer no customizations and no extras: no concierge, no high-tech fitness centers or affinity pools, no business centers, no choice of pillows, and no elaborate 24-hour room service. What Japan’s premier ryokans do offer is a complete, high-touch immersion into Japan culture and cuisine, within the framework of a minimalist aesthetic. Your personal attendant will provide an individual level of hospitality that may be beyond anything one can experience at any Four Season, Peninsula, and Mandarin hotel. I recently came across an illuminating article by Tyler Brule of the Financial Times who listed 10 pointers for stay at a ryokan. Bravo Tyler!

1. Go easy on the eye: ryokan offers relaxation because the experience tends to be a minimalist one.
2. Avoid veneers: it’s hard to beat aroma of a hinoki-scented structure that’s made from solid timber rather than plastic.
3. Breathe deep: windows that open wide make for a cosy night’s sleep under a meringue of goose down.
4. Keep lighting at the lowest level: most innkeepers know a thing or two about using light and shadow for seductive effect.
5. Make a night feel like a week: the regimented programme allows guests to fully switch off and start to recharge immediately.
6. Forget your toothbrush: all good ryokan bathrooms are stocked with essential toiletries.
7. Soak up the scenery: a private tub with a view often comes as standard.
8. Someone to watch over you: real service comes with a dedicated attendant seeing to all your needs.
9. Adding to the bottom line: in the case of the Asaba and Murata, the gift shop is usually best avoided unless you want to spend another $500 on outstanding gifts and housewares.
10. A rub before bedtime: who needs a massage table when you’re already wrapped in the inn’s pyjamas, lying on your futon, and being kneaded by a pair of ancient, seasoned hands?

- Randy Lynch

Privately Arranged Geisha Dinner/Entertainment for Families/Couples Touring Japan by Kipling & Clark

Over the past year Kipling & Clark has arranged special evening private Japanese dinners with contracted Geisha entertainment at various noteworthy Kyoto restaurants. These unique Geisha nights have included one Geiko (term used for Geisha in the Kyoto district) and two Maiko (younger, apprentice Geisha). Together they perform dancing and singing, as well as serving a multi-course traditional kaiseki dinner. Our lady clients have also dressed up as geisha for a very interesting, long-lasting memory.

This is among the very special activities we have added to our Japan private luxury tours. The subtle aesthetic of the Geisha experience is a pure reflection of Japanese cultural traditions – a world that was more common in times past.

Enigmatic, Compelling Japan

Japan is singular among Asian cultures in its amazing ability to assimilate and then synthesize foreign cultures and influences. The contrast between Japan’s orderly, balanced Shinto/Buddhist centered culture and its hyper-innovative technology-driven economy is compelling. One always sees two sides of Japan: Its 21st Century technology as expressed in its auto/electronic industry, sleek designs, and thoroughly modern economy on the one hand seem incongruous to Japan’s structured, conformist set of social norms and religious beliefs on the other. Despite our many travels to Japan, there always seems to be an impenetrable veil in truly understanding this wonderful land. As David Pilling noted, “Almost every aspect of life in Japan from sumo wrestling and tea ceremony to business, one has a feeling of something other than itself, beyond itself.”

I think Americans are most impressed with Japan’s fastidiously maintained and antiseptically clean infrastructure – the trains – highways – roads, clean beyond belief! Our daughter, Zen, particularly loves the delicious ekiben lunchboxes one can enjoy on the train. The Japan Rail/Bullet Train system is amazingly efficient, fast, and a really fun way to travel!

Japan is most unique in its arts/design with its singular and subtle aesthetics: think of their clean, simple, minimalist designs, the meticulous skill in origami and Ikebana, the geisha culture and tea ceremony - all so intrinsic to Japan.

Egalitarianism: Unlike nearly all other major advanced countries, Japan has a balanced evenly-spread distribution of income – one sees very few pretentious displays of wealth (no grand, opulent estates or mansions).

As Paul Theroux has written, “The Japanese have a settled sense of themselves as an advanced culture, a sense that other people simply are not doing things right. Japanese think their food is the best, their way of living is the best. Although they lack space, they pretty much feel they’ve got it all figured out.” – we wholeheartedly agree!

Enjoy this extraordinary land.

Randy

India Etiquette

When visiting the huge and wonderful country of India, it is polite to understand and practice their very strong traditions. Much of their traditions are shaped by the various religions that are practiced there, and because of that, it is very important to be respectful of them.

Etiquette is very appropriate and should be followed by wearing the appropriate attire in India. Make sure your clothing is not tight and you are covered when in all rural places. Larger cities tend to be more modern, therefore the locals are used to seeing tourists, so there is more flexibility there in terms of what kinds of clothes are acceptable. Sandals are often worn because footwear is not acceptable in a home, museum, historic monument, or place of worship.

The etiquette is more formal than most countries when dining. People are served in an order by guest of honor, children, and then women. Unlike the Americans ways, eating utensils are traditionally not used; instead you would use your right hand when eating. The left hand is considered unclean.

When entering India as a tourist, be sure to take photographs only where it’s allowed. For example, it is unacceptable to take pictures in temples, at airports, or military locations. It's not allowed.

It is essential to know how and when you will need to greet people in India. Greet those worthy of respect by saying “Namaste” with your hands together (as if praying) and quick bow. Greet the most senior person first, but do not shake their hand unless they extend their hand first. Always apply common courtesy to all when visiting another country. Be sure to tip helpful services such as waiters, guides, drivers, and all bags porters. By following the lead of locals you will be honoring your host and enjoy a safe fun filled trip.

www.vayama.com

Taj Mahal

The Taj Mahal truly is one of the wonders of the world. It is a monument of love built by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in 1630 for his Queen Mumtaz Mahal to enshrine her mortal remains. For twenty-two years, 20,000 men labored day and night to build this masterpiece that has held the world awe struck ever since. It is visited today by more than three million people who visit Agra each year. I feel the Taj Mahal is one of the very few places in the world where the reality of seeing the subject actually surpasses all of the hyperbole and hype. Rudyard Kipling expressed the beauty of this place aptly as “the embodiment of all things pure.” –R. Lynch

Luk Yu Teahouse and Dim Sum

This is a wonderful place for tea and dim sum lunch. Opened in 1933, Luk Yu Teahouse evokes colonial charm with its nostalgic ceiling fans and stained glass wall decorations.

Luk Yu Teahouse is also famous for being the scene of an execution-style murder in 2002. After finishing his breakfast, a mainland Chinese hit-man calmly paid his bill, then walked over to the nearby table of a local Hong Kong property tycoon, Harry Lam, and killed him with a single gun shot to the head! The hit-man was later caught and sentenced to death. - From an article by Claudia Blume in Hong Kong.

Airline Safety

The New York Times
July 27, 2008

For the 100th anniversary of powered flight, President Bush in 2003 went to Kitty Hawk, N.C., for a re-enactment of the Wright Brothers’ feat. September will mark another major centennial in aviation history, though no ceremony has been announced: the first death of an airplane passenger.

It was Sept. 17, 2008. Orville Wright was showing off a new “aeroplane” at Fort Myer, Va., for about 2,000 people, including Army brass. He took up a 26-year-old lieutenant in the Army Signal Corps, Thomas E. Selfridge, “an aeroplanist himself,” according to the report in this newspaper. Contemporary accounts vary, but the pair apparently made three and a half successful circuits at an altitude of about 75 feet, before a propeller split and hit other parts of the plane, causing it to crash. Orville was badly hurt.

Still, the Army was impressed, so much that the War Department eventually bought the Wrights’ invention. Aviation endured, punctuated by occasional catastrophic crashes that have, in the end, made flying much safer, especially in the United States, where the airlines carry some two million people a day on tens of thousands of flights.

A big plane could crash tomorrow, of course. On Friday, a Qantas passenger airliner en route from Hong Kong to Melbourne, Australia, was forced to make an emergency landing in Manila after a hole opened in the fuselage of the Boeing 747-400 at 29,000 feet, resulting in a loss of cabin pressure. Experts immediately began a search for the cause, just as the Wright Brothers did 100 years ago after Orville’s crash.

“My brothers will pursue these tests until the machines are near perfect as it is possible to make them,” Lorin Wright told reporters right after the crash, “if they are not killed in the meantime.”

The arc of safety improvements has been dramatic. Boeing, reaching back to the beginning of the jet age, found one fatal accident for every 30,000 commercial jet flights in 1959. By 2006, the rate for all airliner flights had dropped to one accident for every 4.2 million flights by Western-built commercial jets, according to the Flight Safety Foundation, a nonprofit research group. (Lieutenant Selfridge nonetheless stands at the head of a rather long queue. Boeing counted 26,454 deaths of people on commercial jets between 1959 and 2006, and an additional 934 on the ground.)

The Olympics and Chinese Pride

China’s most impressive and meticulous management of the Beijing Olympics was truly a “coming out party” and a proper metaphor for a more ascendant, confident China and its place as an economic/cultural power in the 21st century.

What most impressed Bev, Zen and I during our Summer 2008 China trip was not just the country’s amazing economic advancement, but the day-to-day ordinary Chinese we encountered. Nearly everyone we talked to expressed genuine pride and joy in China’s hosting of the Olympics and a perceived long overdue respect from other nations worldwide. China’s humiliation at the hands of the West and later Japan in the 19th and early 20th centuries colors much of China’s worldview and is a fundamental part of the national psyche.

Although most Chinese wish to embrace globalization, western business practices and economic development, many worry of the pernicious effects of Western influences on their traditional culture.

The Beijing Olympics, in Closing

I had the pleasure of being interviewed last week by Associated Press reporter Henry Sanderson. We talked about how the Olympics were being used by China to showcase a "new modern image." I thought to include Mr. Sanderson's thorough AP piece - it ran in hundreds of newspapers across the country. My quote is at the bottom.

Olympics as PR: Here's the new, modern China
By HENRY SANDERSON – August 23, 2008

BEIJING (AP) — If proof were needed that the Olympic Games are meant to give China an image makeover, look no further than the 10-yuan note: Chairman Mao is out, the Bird's Nest is in. There are only enough of the bills that replace the late Communist Party leader's likeness with the iconic stadium to make them a collector's item — for most of the billions of dollars in transactions here, Mao Zedong is still the man.

Like the currency, the modern image that China is showcasing to the world during its turn in the white-hot Olympic spotlight may be nice to look at, but the Communist Party remains firmly in control. The multi-layered Chinese public relations blitz has helped lure tourists leery of a country often portrayed as polluted and repressive, and has given a boost to Chinese who have rallied behind the games, experts on China and public relations said. At the same time, the nation's leadership has barely budged from its policies.

It largely ignored criticism of its human rights record and continued its repression of free speech. Its harsh rule in Tibet has been downplayed, political dissidents locked up, beggars pushed out of Beijing and journalists covering protests roughed-up. It did not grant a protest permit.

"I think (the) China government has done a very good job of presenting a positive image overseas, but in doing so it didn't change much of its behavior to do that," said Russell Leigh Moses, an analyst of Chinese politics based in Beijing.

While the Communist Party leaders will have received a warm boost from their people for staging successful games, the real test will come afterwards when they have to deal with the myriad problems China faces, Moses said.

For many Chinese, the Olympics have been presented as a comeback from a century or more of weakness and humiliation, the culmination of a "100-year dream." The Communist Party has gained from being able to achieve it.

China has also tried to present a non-threatening image to the world that helps dispel fears of the country's rise on the world stage, allowing it to restore what it sees as its rightful place in the international community. Beijing became obsessed by image in the lead up to the games and anything unsightly was deemed offensive. Neighborhood food stalls were covered up by roadside barriers showing pictures of ancient Chinese-style curved rooftops or Olympics motifs. Factories were shut down and millions of cars taken off the roads to clear Beijing's notoriously pollution-clogged skies.

"This was part of the grand plan to show a new China, and I think it's delivered in many regards," said Scott Kronick, president of Ogilvy Public Relations in China. Chinese authorities are getting more polished and confident in delivering their message globally, he said.

The games' lavish opening ceremony, vetted by party leaders, barely touched on communism and the tumultuous decades after the Communist Party came to power in 1949. The ceremony focused on China's ancient culture — Confucius was quoted, Mao was not.

"China is trying to present itself as nonthreatening and in a lot of ways nonsocialist," said Michael Dutton, an academic at Australia's Griffith University's Asia Institute who studies political cultures. "They've gone all out to try and present a country that's ancient yet super-modern."

China's political leaders have also changed their style. Dark-suited and often appearing stiff in public, President Hu Jintao smiled his way through the opening ceremony and was seen at a ping pong event clapping alongside his wife and International Olympic Committee president Jacques Rogge.

Beijing also has another audience to please — the millions of Chinese who have benefited from the economic boom through growing personal wealth and greater access to the outside world via television and the Internet. It serves the government for China's people to forget about the excesses of Mao's Cultural Revolution in the 1960s and the 1989 crackdown on pro-democracy demonstrators in Tiananmen Square. Better the government be thought of as the stewards of three decades of economic growth that have raised millions into a burgeoning middle class.

Tiananmen Square has been spruced up to include a large flower decoration and a 55-foot-tall Beijing 2008 Olympic symbol.

While a few short protests by foreigners were held there early in the games — and were quickly ended by a heavy police presence — a more common sight has been dancing and other activities on a government-sanctioned cultural program. For foreigners too, the government "wants people to shift their responses beyond the man standing in front of the tank," said Anne-Marie Brady, a political scientist at New Zealand's University of Canterbury.

Randy Lynch, the president of Kipling & Clark, a Chicago-based agency that organizes high-end travel to China, has said bookings for next year has jumped 40 percent since the games began — many of them by people who before the Olympics never would have considered traveling to China.

"The one thing the Olympics has shown Americans is that China has a very well-developed and successful infrastructure, and it's easy to get around," he said. "It's almost like they've thrown the Communist Manifesto out of the window."

Olympics Got You Interested in Visiting China??

If the Olympics have you interested in visiting China - then be sure to check out our post-Olympics luxury private tours of China. Click here for a sample itinerary.

A post-Olympics tour of China is a journey you and your family will love - it's a trip-of-a-lifetime! The Lynch family recently returned from an 18-day luxury tour and our journey is chronicled in three parts on this blog.

Click on these links to read about it:

Part I:
http://kiplingandclark.blogspot.com/2008/07/our-family-luxury-tour-of-china-what.html

Part II:
http://kiplingandclark.blogspot.com/2008/08/our-family-luxury-tour-of-china-part-ii.html

Part III:
http://kiplingandclark.blogspot.com/2008/08/our-family-luxury-tour-of-china-part.html

Here's our press release about our post-Olympic tours in China:

Kipling & Clark, the Leading Luxury Travel Planner to Asia, Introduces Post-Olympics Private, Custom, Luxury Tours of China

CHICAGO, IL—August 21, 2008—If the Olympic Games in Beijing have you interested in visiting China, Kipling & Clark – the expert in private, custom, luxury travel to Greater China, Japan and all of Southeast Asia – has introduced post-Olympic private, luxury tours of the many popular areas of China. From the historical and cultural attractions in Beijing to the unique landscape and lush, green rice fields along the Li River in Guilin, from the striking skyline of Hong Kong to the palpable energy and drive of Shanghai, Kipling & Clark takes you on a personalized luxury tour of the most popular areas of China, and those areas off the beaten path, for a trip of a lifetime.

“The intense, pervasive coverage of the Beijing Olympics has opened China’s unique, diverse culture to millions of people worldwide,” said Randy Lynch, founder and president of Kipling & Clark. “My family and I recently returned in June from an 18-day luxury tour of China that included Beijing, Shanghai, Guilin, Zhongdian, Chengdu (where we had a private audience with a baby panda at the Panda Research Center!!), and Hong Kong, and we were overwhelmed with the beauty, art, history, warmth and genuine kindness of the Chinese people. The introduction of the first luxury cruiser plying the Yangzi, The Yangzi Explorer, adds another jewel to a China private tour itinerary. A post-Olympics private, luxury tour of China is a journey you and your family will cherish forever.”

Click here for a sample Kipling & Clark 17-day itinerary to China

Aspirational China

Similar to most Americans in times past, I feel the Chinese fully embrace the concept of the “American Dream.” That is, many of our Chinese friends fully expect their lives will be much better than that of their parents – more economic opportunity, higher quality living standards, and more freedom of movement. You feel their sense of excitement and urgency with their quest for upward mobility. Communist party dogma seems irrelevant in the everyday life of most Chinese.

A recent Wall Street Journal article referred to such upwardly mobile Chinese as the “aspirational China.” I fully believe the current Beijing Olympics is a fitting metaphor for “aspirational China” and its compelling future.

Although my family and I have made many trips to China, our recent, long, June 2008 trip seemed to amplify to us China’s continuous change and its unprecedented, spectacular economic growth and development. This last trip brought us to eight different airports throughout the country, from the very small, remote Shangri-La/Zhongdian Airport in Yunnan province to the recently opened Beijing Capital Airport Terminal 3 – the largest in the world. Regardless of the areas we visited, from the far-flung regions of Yunnan and Sichuan provinces to the urban clusters of Beijing and Shanghai, the overall infrastructure/transport facilities we used were practically all newly-built, integrating 21st century technology, and most efficient. China’s transport system has been comprehensively transformed/modernized. In stark contrast, upon return to Chicago’s O’Hare International Airport, I was reminded of the antiquated, aged infrastructure that most Americans must deal with on a daily basis.

Any frequent visitor to China will come home with the sober realization that we, as a nation, have much work to do to get ourselves more competitive in this newly globalized, interdependent world.

New Ticketing Policy from United Airlines

Some news we thought to pass onto you - United Airlines has recently enacted a new ticketing policy.

All Economy tickets must be purchased within 24 hours or they will be auto-cancelled.

There are some exceptions:

· Unrestricted/full fare economy fares such as "B and Y" class and Business/First Class must be issued within 72 hours before departure.

· If the reservation is made less than 72 hours before departure, ticket must be issued within 24 hours of booking.

Feel free to contact me if you have any questions about this new policy. rlynch@kiplingandclark.com

Interesting Facts about Beijing

With the Olympic Opening Ceremonies tomorrow, I thought to share some interesting facts about Beijing. Here's a short profile:

"Beijing"
The name means "Northern Capital." (Nanjing is the "Southern Capital.")

City Names
King Wu first declared what is now Beijing the capital of China in 1057 B.C. The city has gone by the names of Ji, Zhongdu, Dadu, and finally Beijing when Ming Dynasty Emperor Cheng Zu selected the name in 1421. Before 1949, Beijing was known in the West as Peking.

Location
Beijing is situated in the northeastern part of the North China Plain, west of the Yellow Sea and southeast of Mongolia. About 143 feet above sea level, the alluvial plain between the Yongding and the Chaobai rivers forms Beijing. The city occupies 6,500 square miles. It is surrounded by the Yanshan Mountains on the west, north and east while the Yongding River plain lies to its southeast. Beijing faces the Bohai Sea, also called Beijing Bay.

Founded
Modern Beijing began to take shape during the Shang Dynasty (1766-1100 B.C.), first as a frontier trading town for the Mongols, Koreans and tribes from Shandong and Central China. This year, Beijing celebrates its 3,053rd anniversary. Beijing includes 18 districts and counties.

Borders
China shares borders with Russia, Mongolia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgystan, Tajikistan, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, Nepal, Bhutan, Myanmar, Laos and Vietnam.

Population
15.244 million, it is China's second-largest city after Shanghai (20.2 million). It was ruled by numerous "dynasties" until 1949, when the People's Republic of China was established.

Climate
Beijing's climate is classified as "continental monsoon," featuring cold, dry winters and summers that are hot, owing to humid monsoon winds from the southeast that bring Beijing most of its annual precipitation. January is the coldest month and July the warmest.

Monetary unit
Yuan (about 8.27 per U.S. dollar).

Government
Communist state.

Major Industries
Mining and ore processing, machine building, armaments, textiles, apparel, petroleum, cement, chemicals, consumer products, food processing, transportation equipment, telecommunications equipment, commercial space launch vehicles and satellites.

Beijing is famous for: Beijing roast duck, Carpets, Cloisonné, Forbidden City, Glassware, Great Wall, Ivory sculptures, Ming Tombs, Summer Palace, Temple of Heaven and Tiananmen Square. Its top sports include: Soccer, Table tennis, Basketball, Soccer (football), Gymnastics, Badminton and Swimming.

Our Family Luxury Tour of China - Part III

I hope you've enjoyed Parts I and II of our amazing 18-day luxury tour of China. Here is Part III, Shanghai:

We feel Shanghai to be a perfect metaphor for China's future - young, dynamic, optimistic and supremely confident. No evidence of Communist dogma here - you get the feeling that they have thrown the Communist Manifesto out the window! The energy and drive of this exciting city is almost palpable. As Zen remarked, Shanghai is a great place to "chill, hang out and play."
We cannot say enough of our Shanghai-based guide Faye - engaging, educated, and most interesting. Faye really personifies China's articulate and forward-looking youth.

As shopping and people-watching are wonderful activities here, Faye brought us back to two of our preferred areas, Xintiandi (meaning "New-Heaven-Earth") and Taikang-lu St. Xintiandi is the Ben Wood-designed high-end restaurant/shopping/entertainment complex built on restored preserved two-three story traditional Shikumen buildings - this place is ground zero for superlative people-watching in Shanghai! Another bonus, you will find the home of the Communist Party here! Among our favorite restaurants here are T8 and, of course, "ZEN." Taikang-lu, also known as Shanghai's "Creative Art Park," is a group of backstreets filled with clothing boutiques, jewelry shops, and art galleries. Built into old row house apartments with charming street signs, Taikang-lu attracts a hip, affluent crowd.

Xintiandi Area
As we have been frequent visitors to Shanghai, we did not include our past stopover to the fabulous Shanghai Museum and many of the other sites: The Urban Planning Museum, Yuyuan Garden, and the Old City section. We also missed the day trip to Hangzhou this time around, although we always enjoy visiting there (particularly for the Dragon Well tea!).

When visiting Shanghai, Bev's first stop is always the M50 art gallery area in Suzhou Creek. Since exploding on the international art scene a few years past, Chinese contemporary art has been the fastest growing art market in the world. We returned to M50's Art Scene gallery so Bev could purchase two more Chen-Xing Mao paintings - there goes the budget! While Bev perused the galleries, Zen, Sofia and I discovered a very unique, custom shop - Zedong Fashion Co. Ltd (Hipanda.org) - This is a wonderful place for avant-garde, hip panda t-shirts for friends and family!!

Surprise Hyatt on the Bund
(the image at the top of this entry is the Pudong view from the Hyatt on the Bund)
As many of our friends/clients know, we always prefer the smaller boutique luxury hotels vs. the larger deluxe properties. Based on this preconceived notion, our expectations of our stay at the Hyatt on the Bund were not so high. Our principal reason for staying here was that the Hyatt is the first 5 star luxury hotel to be located directly on the riverfront Bund - a wonderful location. Although large in size (600 rooms), the level of personal, high-touch service at the Hyatt on the Bund was simply outstanding! - Smiles everywhere, and a pervasive sense of kindness and warmth that is difficult to imagine in any place other than a small luxury hotel. We had spectacular Pudong/Huangpu River views from our sleek, modern-designed rooms. Room service is usually a good barometer of a hotel's overall quality and attention to detail. Similar to the Mandarin/Peninsula/Four Seasons, room service delivery was prompt and the food was amazing. Of course, I loved the 24hr Business Center - Bev took special note of the center's comfortable, hip Mario Bellini chairs!

JIA
To get a more urban feel of Shanghai, we spent one night at the relatively new luxury boutique hotel JIA ("home" in Chinese). Adjacent to the vibrant, high-end street mall, Wujiang, we felt JIA to be the perfect place to stay if one wishes to experience young, hip, Shanghai urban life. JIA is located in a 1920s colonial building, with all 55 rooms done in a contemporary 5 star style that is both pampered and high-tech. Our balcony suite had wonderful views of the city activity below. Another bonus - JIA's Issimo Italian restaurant on the second floor! (You were right Patrick M.!)

Shanghai Private Jewish Tour
We have heard much positive feedback about Dvir Bar-Gal and his private Jewish heritage tours of Shanghai. With Faye taking Sofia and Zen back to the pool at the Hyatt, Bev and I enjoyed a half-day Jewish heritage tour with Dvir, beginning on the Bund and ending in the old Jewish ghetto section near Qingming Park. We were most impressed with Dvir's encyclopedic knowledge of Shanghai history in general, as well as all of the Jewish influences. Most compelling was the narrative of the Jewish migration to Shanghai in the 19th and 20th centuries and the major cultural/political/economic influences. The private tour ends in the old Jewish ghetto section of Shanghai where over 20,000 Jewish refugees lived during the Nazi period.

Shanghai's "longtangs"
An amazing part of any visit to Shanghai is a visit to the residential longtangs (alleyways) where one sees everyday life among Shanghainese. Although the number of longtangs continues to decline due to demolition for new, modern developments, there are still plenty to visit - this is most compelling! The longtangs are teeming with life - grandparents gambling with playing cards, noisy animated children everywhere, mothers washing their clothes with drying clothing lines everywhere. Reflecting Shanghai's Western influence, longtangs were conceived in the 19th century when the city was forced open to the west as a treaty port. You see Western architecture mixed with Chinese traditional courtyard concepts, and, of course, the uniquely Chinese way of integrating communal, social interaction among the residents.

There's nothing else to say except China was amazing!!

Our sense of enthusiasm and passion for Asia is unfettered and unrestrained! Please email me if you'd like to talk about preparing a custom travel experience for you, your family and friends. RLynch@KiplingandClark.com

(click here to read about Part I of our China journey)

Upcoming 2008/2009 family luxury trips for the Lynch family include: Southeast Asia and India, (Christmas/New Year holiday, we are hoping the Xu family will join us!) and back to Japan (cherry blossoms!) during April Spring Break.