Top 10 Favorite Asia Luxury Hotels & Ryokans, 2010 Edition

Seasons Greetings friends, clients and associates!

Over the past several years clients and airlines alike have asked us for our opinions on the various hotels we have stayed at in Asia. Based on our annual travels to the Pacific Rim, Bev, Zen and I are continuously (re)evaluating what we consider the very best luxury hotels/ryokans in Asia. Here is the Kipling & Clark/Lynch Family Top 10 Favorite Asia Luxury hotels/Ryokans, 2010 Edition.

Also, please note Zen's Top 5 Fun Travel Experiences in Asia.

Safe Travels!

Randy, Ben & Zen Lynch
rlynch@kiplingandclark.com


1. TIED – Tawaraya Ryokan and Hiiragiya Ryokan – Kyoto, Japan

No change from 2009 – we cannot imagine more respectful, high-touch service or more cultural immersion anywhere else!

Amazingly, two of the most famous ryokans (Japanese inns) in Kyoto are located directly across the alleyway from each other. It’s difficult to distinguish Tawaraya from Hiiragiya – they both represent the very highest levels of high-touch service. A big part of Japan’s uniqueness is its wabi-sabi aesthetic. Wabi-sabi is a Japanese worldview/state-of-mind emphasizing simplicity and purity – the beauty and awe of all things humble, unpretentious and imperfect. Both ryokans successfully integrate the finest Japanese traditions and wabi-sabi philosophy with contemporary conveniences that seasoned travelers expect.

When staying at Tawaraya or Hiiragiya, one can expect a complete, comprehensive immersion into traditional Japanese culture, including a meticulously prepared and delicious multi-course kaiseki dinner. An added once-in-a-lifetime experience is a Kipling & Clark arranged private Geiko and Maiko geisha dinner at either ryokan. (Kipling & Clark can arrange through a private geisha house, “okiya”)

Luxury in ryokan terms is quite different from luxury in a traditional western sense. The high costs of staying at one of these ryokans has no correlation with sleek, modern amenities such as flat-screen TVs/sound systems, high-tech bathrooms or 5-star 24-hour room service, but, rather, due to the meticulous, sincere high-touch immersion into Japanese culture one experiences. This includes your own dedicated Japanese room attendant who individually serves your meals, prepares your bedding, and provides a wabi-sabi centered service that is pure and real.

Our favorite rooms:
Tawaraya – "Izumi" room (8 + 7.5 tatami mats)
Hiiragiya – Room #30 in main building (large - 15 + 14 tatami mats!), Room #51 in new annex building (10 + 3 tatami mats; although small, #51 is cozy and has wonderful lighting from the window)

2. Four Seasons Tag Team! (Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai/Thailand)

We cannot imagine two nearby luxury resorts with better service or more beautiful settings. First, the Four Seasons Chiang Mai – landscaped gardens, water lily ponds, water buffalo (Zen loves the morning rides!), set in terraced rice paddies. No pretention here, the service is subtle, heartfelt, natural, almost wabi-sabiesque in its delivery. Although smaller (only 15 free-standing luxury “tents”) in scale, the Four Seasons Tented Camp/Chiang Rai, Golden Triangle offers every bit of service as its sister property in Chiang Mai. Set in a lush hillside overlooking Burma and Laos, the tented accommodations offer every custom amenity imaginable. The focal point here is elephants – much fun!

Our favorite rooms: Rice-Terrace View Pavilions in Chiang Mai and tents #1 or #2 in Chiang Rai.

3. TIED – Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong & Mandarin Oriental Bangkok

The Mandarin in Hong Kong and the Oriental in Bangkok are our two favorites in Hong Kong and Bangkok, respectively.

• Mandarin Hong Kong: Although we very much enjoy the Four Seasons, the Peninsula, and the Intercontinental in Hong Kong, we must give a slight edge to the Mandarin, especially since its 2007/2008 renovation. This place truly represents understated luxury. The renovation has resulted in the Mandarin’s former balconies being converted to lounge/study area extensions, with stunning Victoria Harbor views. We especially like the bathroom/amenities, including the vertical, swivel plasma TV/mirrors – so unique! The Mandarin offers a luxurious, peaceful oasis from the noisy, frenetic city outside.

Our favorite rooms: Deluxe Harbor & Harbor Suite Rooms

• The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok is our absolute favorite in Bangkok. Boasting a 130 year history of tradition and the highest level of service makes this place a truly unique luxury property. Unpretentious, understated, attentive. We particularly enjoy the Executive Suites overlooking the Chao Phraya River. Bev and Zen are big fans of the Oriental Spa, located just across the river from the hotel, designed in a traditional Thai-style house of beautiful teak wood. The Oriental Bangkok may have the largest, most varied breakfast buffet in all of Asia!

Our favorite rooms: River View State Rooms & Author Suites

4. Gora Kadan Ryokan – Hakone, Japan

A short 45-minute bullet train ride from Tokyo, the Gora Kadan is a quiet, Shinto-Buddhistque oasis from the big city, offering its rejuvenating onsen (hot mineral springs).

Proprietress Mikawako, the third generation of Fujimotos to run Gora Kadan, has blended traditional Japanese ryokan hospitality with modern Western design in creating a luxurious ryokan spa experience. The Gora Kadan’s original building dates back to 300 years and was the summer home of the Kan’in-No-Miya imperial family.

We love the rooms with private granite open mineral springs bath, fed by the Gora Kadan’s natural springs. With its airy east-west fusion aesthetic, its wonderful (Kaiseki) food service, and total relaxation spa, Gora Kadan is definitely on our A-list for high-touch ryokans in Japan.

Our favorite room: Japanese style "Aoi" suite with private mineral springs bath!

5. Peninsula – Tokyo

The 24-story Peninsula has the best luxury hotel location in Tokyo, directly across from lovely Hibiya Park (think 5K run!), Imperial grounds, and adjacent to the amazing Ginza shopping district. Envisioned by architect Kuzukiyo Sato to look like a giant Japanese stone lantern, the freestanding Peninsula combines subtle Japanese hospitality with the Peninsula tradition of understated luxury.

The rooms are among the largest in Tokyo, stating at 544 sq ft. Cool amenities range from bedside consoles that control the drapes to Lavazza espresso machines. The rooms even offer the ladies a personal nail dryer! For our jogging friends, the Peninsula offers a nice 5K start to your day. Beginning across the street on the Imperial Palace’s grounds, a full 5K jog runs through the grounds and back through Hibaya Park. Zen rates the hot chocolate and the Peninsula’s amazing “vitality” pool as the best in all of Japan!

Our favorite rooms: Grand Deluxe Park View & Deluxe Corner Rooms

6. TIED – Grand Hotel D’Angkor (Raffles) & Amansara – Siem Reap, Cambodia

Most hoteliers would describe the Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor as a luxury 5-star hotel/resort, while Amansara (part of the Aman Resorts) fits into the other-worldly elite category. We very much like both properties, located just down the street from each other in Siem Reap.

• The staff at the Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor feel almost like family. In the five years that we have been visiting the Raffles, we have seen very little staff turnover, a glowing testament to the morale and dedication of the friendly, gregarious Khmer crew. Our daughter, Zen, is always invited for fun rides in the antique caged lift and enjoys bringing local friends to the attractive pool/spa area. Sorry, McDonald’s, Zen says the pool grill’s French fries are the very best anywhere! This early 20th Century French colonial style property is among our absolute favorites in Southeast Asia!

Our favorite rooms: Personality and Cabana Suites

• Formerly the guesthouse of Cambodia’s King Sihanouk, Amansara represents the highest elite level of luxury accommodations. The service here is singular, extremely high-touch, personal and custom. In contrast to the friendly, airy Raffles where guests have the opportunity to mingle with others, we feel almost ensconced at the Amansara. When staying at one of the luxurious pool suite rooms, everything is managed insularly with little incentive to go outside the room. Our only chance at interaction with other guests was at breakfast. In the final analysis, Amansara may be better for couples and high-profile travelers wishing privacy, while the Grand Hotel D’Angkor is better suited for families and those wishing a more group dynamic environment.

Our favorite rooms: Pool Suite Rooms

7. Amantaka – Luang Prabang, Laos

As Luang Prabang is among our favorite hidden treasures in Southeast Asia, we are obliged to include a hotel in this sleepy, Buddhist town. Set in a large garden estate in the grounds of a former French hospital, Amantaka is an easy 5-minute walk from Luang Prabang’s main street. Similar to our other favorites in Luang Prabang, the Le Residence and the Maison Souvannaphoum, heartfelt smiles come naturally to the local Laotian staff here. Being an Aman property, the Amantaka does all the little things that make your stay here truly special – cookies and tea every afternoon in the library, ice cold towels waiting for you every time you return to the hotel from the outside.

Our favorite rooms:

8. TIED - Banyan Tree – Lijiang (Yunnan, China) & Hotel of Modern Art (HOMA) – Guilin, China

• Located just outside UNESCO World Heritage Site of Lijiang, the Banyan Tree – Lijiang has created the perfect harmony of the local matriarchal Naxi culture and Banyan Tree’s predictably friendly customer service.

With all 55 of its villas looking out at Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, this place has a spiritual soul-searching feel. Notwithstanding the Banyan Tree’s 6,500 ft location, the spa offers wonderful massage service from their Phuket-trained Thai staff!

Our favorite rooms: Deluxe Garden or Deluxe Pool Villa

• Hotel of Modern Art (HOMA) – Founded by a Taiwanese business entrepreneur in 1997, HOMA represents a lovely balance of world class sculpture, architecture, and art set against the backdrop of the natural beauty of the lush grounds.

Despite the somewhat limited English among the staff, the genuine kindness and warmth delivered here is truly heartwarming, with each guest room assigned a personal attendant. HOMA’s art workshop for kids is hands-on and fun! All 46 rooms here are individually designed with hip, funky decorations/artwork, along with flat-screen TVs, modern amenities, and a “wow” design aesthetic. I feel HOMA is THE place to stay if visiting Guilin.

Our favorite rooms: Libre Family Suite

9. Sofitel Metropole – Hanoi, Vietnam

We feel this is the best hotel in all of Vietnam! Conceived in 1901, the Metropole combines wonderful French colonial architecture/history with Vietnam’s cultural traditions of hospitality and services. Our family always feels at home here. Bev loves the modern Vietnam art work displayed throughout the first floor from local artists. Although there are really no bad rooms at the Metropole, the Opera Suite is a major treat!

Our favorite rooms: Opera Suite or Grand Luxury Rooms

10. Shinkansen (Bullet) F Class N700 "Green" Car – Tokyo/Kyoto


Yes, we know this is supposed to be our top 10 luxury hotels/ryokans...but we cannot resist including our most pleasurable rail experience ANYWHERE, the SHINKANSEN N700 F Class Green Car!

Like most things we love about Japan, the SHINKANSEN successfully integrates technology with impeccable service and wonderful aesthetics. We never tire of riding in the "Green" Cars - fastiduously clean, ultra-comfortable seating, and SPEED. These duck-billed bullet trains are most impressive with innovative "tilting" technology that allows the train to tilt one degree to maintain high speeds, even on turns. Another bonus - these trains are QUIET and SMOOTH.

ZEN'S JOURNAL: My Top 5 Fun Travel Experiences in Asia

Happy C-H-K (Christmas - Hanukah - Kwanza), everyone!

Of course my Dad has to give you our family update of our 10 top luxury hotels. Now it's my turn...these are my top 5 FUN travel experiences in Asia.




1. Samurai sword lesson in Kyoto, Japan
My Parker classmate, Zuri, and I both agree this was the most awesome experience during our last trip to Japan. We loved the way the Japanese actors faked their dramatic deaths from our fatal lunges - it felt so real!

2. Take the toboggan down the Great Wall at Mutianyu in Beijing, China
Dad, Mom, my cousin, Sofia, and I felt this to be among the really fun activities of our last China trip! Each toboggan has a manual control throttle that controls your speed sliding down (4500 ft.) from the wall highpoint - the entire trip down takes about 5 minutes - better than any ride at Disneyworld!!

3. Maesa Elephant Camp in Chiang Mai, Thailand tied with morning water buffalo rides at the Four Seasons/Chiang Mai
If you love elephants, Maesa is the place to visit. This is a private elephant camp where you get to feed the elephants, ride the elephants, bathe the elephants, and finally paint pictures with elephants! So cool! I love staying at the Four Seasons Chiang Mai for the morning rides on their two "cute" water buffalo.

4. Spending time with my friends at COSO Orphanage in Siem Reap, Cambodia
The orphan kids are so friendly and happy with none of the many "things" we have. I love to spend time with Marie & Sophiek.

5. Private tea ceremony in Kyoto
I love making the matcha green tea, the sweets and learning all the steps and ceremony. The tea master, Suzuki-san, was so kind and respectful.

Happy Travels & Enjoy the Holidays!

Zen

Lynch Family 2010 Travels

Greetings friends, clients, and global travelers, and Happy November to all of you!

Now that Halloween and the elections are behind us, the Lynch Family (Bev, Zen and I) is preparing a quick whirlwind trip to Southeast Asia, traveling late December. Also, we are very much looking forward to our February 9-day Egypt private tour as well as travels to Asia & Europe in the summer. We just started reading noted author Stacy Schiff’s newly-released biography of Cleopatra – feedback forthcoming!

We are truly grateful for the vast spectrum of noteworthy clients we serve, from the world of finance, entertainment, technology, science, law, et. al. Many thanks for giving us the opportunity to serve you!

Please enjoy reading our November luxury travel updates, including our 2011 private luxury tour picks and, of course, Zen’s Journal!

Safe Travels!

Randy, Beverly & Zen Lynch

rlynch@kiplingandclark.com

Our 2011 Private luxury tour picks – Part I

As noted in previous correspondence, we really love all of our nice things, but none compare to the amazing travels we experience throughout the year – memories truly do last forever! In terms of raising our children, our clients and we agree that education and travel are critical assets in this newly competitive, global world.

We have prepared a short list of our favorite 2011 private luxury tours. These itineraries include travels to Asia, Europe, the Middle East and Africa. Either our family (the Lynch’s) or our clients have traveled on these itineraries during the past year. We will introduce 4 private tours in this edition, with the balance introduced in our Dec/Jan newsletter.

Japan/8 days
For those with time constraints this 8 day private tour is short & so compelling! We freely admit Japan is perhaps our favorite place on the planet with its unique Shinto-Buddhist centered culture, the technology, the meticulously clean environment and Japan’s amazing wabi-sabi aesthetics.

China/17 days
Bev, Zen, her cousin Sofia, and I loved this wide-ranging kaleidoscope of China. Traveling over a 17 day period (with private guide & driver), you see all of China’s contrasts – spectacular Hong Kong, the Tibetan minorities of Yunnan, a private panda session in Chengdu, the romantic landscapes of Guilin and, of course, Beijing and Shanghai.

Egypt/9 days
We cannot imagine a 9 day private tour with so much rich history and awe-inspiring monuments. Four nights in Cairo and four nights plying the Nile River onboard the luxurious Sun Boat IV. Having your own private Egyptologist is a critical plus!

South Africa/9 days
Picturesque Capetown, the buccolic winelands region, and ending your private tour at the secluded (and luxurious!) Londolozi Pioneer Suites Game Lodge.

Part II – Italy-France – Southeast Asia – New Zealand coming in next issue.

Hello global kid travelers!

Halloween
This might be my most fun day of the year! Dress-up + candy – what is there not to like? This year I dressed up as a geisha – it was easy except for that tight wig! I actually dressed as a maiko, a young apprentice geisha (geiko in training). Geisha is the term used in Tokyo, but geiko and maiko is what geisha are called in Kyoto (my favorite place in Japan!).

Paris via Japan?
Ok, my Asia-obsessed Dad finally gave in to Mom and I for travel to Paris next summer – girls rule!! But there is always a catch with my Dad. He has asked if Mom and I “do not mind stopping in Japan and Southeast Asia on the way to Paris.” Sure sounds like another Round-the-World trip to me!

Planes landing at ORD over Full Moon Lake Michigan – WOW!!
My family and I live on the 27th floor on the Chicago lakefront. About five days before Halloween, on a Full Moon night, my Mom, Dad and I saw an awesome sight – we counted over a dozen planes headed toward O’Hare Airport flying over Lake Michigan in a clear straight path. It was so cool to see these bright lights flying over the lake and crossing the cloudless, Full Moon - so beautiful and so unreal!

Attn: Toni Xu in SFO – Our Egyptologist (female!) is now confirmed for our February Nile River Cruise – Hooray!!

Pennies for Peace really works!
Our school (Francis W. Parker) just had a Morning EX (assembly) with a presentation by people from Pennies for Peace. Pennies for Peace began at one school in Wisconsin but now thousands of schools participate! Gamini and Marta's (TravNET) kids, Haley, Gavin, Evan, and Zoe, also participate. They help children in Pakistan and Afghanistan get a good education and build schools. It is so sad to see so many kids without a good education and a good diet. Every penny counts! Please look at their link and give if you can. http://www.penniesforpeace.org/

Thank you + Happy travels to all!

Zen Lynch

P.S. If you need to reach me by e-mail you may send to my Dad – rlynch@kiplingandclark.com

Japan’s Luxury Onsen Ryokans/Resorts
According to our favorite Japan art’s publication, Kateigaho, Japan is a “hot-spring archipelago.” No doubt the Japanese have turned bathing in “onsen” (hot springs) into a tradition and art form. The many high touch onsen ryokans/resorts throughout Japan successfully integrate relaxation/therapy, luxury hospitality and wonderful local cuisine – “onsen” travel is always a big part of our annual Japan sojourns. Take a look at the amazing Chikusenso in Miyagi, http://www.mtzaoresort.com/en

International Business to First Class Up-grades
For your benefit and comfort, please contact Gamini (gamini@travnet.net) or Marta (marta@travnet.net) about our international Business to First Class up-grade opportunities.

Coming up in our December Newsletter: more 2011 private tour picks, Narita - downtown Tokyo helicopter service, our thoughts on wabi sabi, and Tony D'Orio's amazing images of Italy!

Farewell and safe travels!

Lynch Family 2010 Travels

Greetings friends, clients & Asia associates!

Happy (autumn) to all of you! Following summer (yet active!) break, the Lynch Family (Bev, Zen and I) is looking forward to another year of school and compelling travels. On our calendar the next ten months we have trips scheduled to Southeast Asia (Cambodia, Laos), Egypt (Nile River Cruise), Japan, and Italy.

Our Egypt trip will be a reunion of sorts with our dear friends, the Xu Family - Jay Xu, Director or the Asian Art Museum (SFO), his lovely wife Jennifer, and their precocious daughter, Toni. Our two families have traveled together far and wide, including Japan, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, and Burma. This will be our first trip together outside of Asia, our first love.

Enjoy reading our September luxury travel updates!

Safe travels - Randy Lynch rlynch@kiplingandclark.com

- Experiences vs. Consumption

Although we really love all of our nice things, none compare to our amazing travels. Several recent academic studies on what makes people happy only confirm what Bev, Zen and I have known for years: experiences, particularly travel, create more deep-seated happiness that the very short-term high from material consumption. Memories last forever...It's no coincidence that our closest friends are also the same individuals that we have shared travel experiences with.

Two noteworthy Malibu clients' recent private tour of Kyoto illustrate this point. We arranged a private visit at Kinkakuji Temple (Golden Pavilion), along with an audience with the senior monk. The concluding heartfelt conversation with the monk, discussing the couples' children and careers, ended up being the most emotionally-charged activity of their trip. Both couples feel they will treasure this very special experience for years to come.

ZEN'S CORNER

Hello kids of the world!
Wow, did this summer go by fast! I am back at Parker starting 4th grade. I am so excited with my new teacher, Ms. Cuesta! We study Egypt in 4th grade so our trip there in February should be a big help.

I am looking forward to our Nile River Cruise and sharing a cabin with my San Francisco friend, Toni. The last riverboat cabin we shared was on the Irrawaddy River in Burma. I remember my dad complaining he couldn't sleep with the sound of "High School Musical" from our cabin!

Water and Orphanages in Cambodia
Many kids in Cambodia must walk miles just to get clean drinking water. All of us can help by donating to the Water Wall Project in Siem Reap. After doing this last year, my family and I met the villagers with their new well. The families were so excited and I felt so good to help. Also, here are some orphanages in Cambodia that we know need help -

* COSO Orphanage (we donated a motor for their tuk-tuk!)
o www.coso-orphanage.com
* New Day Cambodia (our friend, Cindy Szadokierski at UA, visits these kids every year!)
o www.anewdaycambodia.org

Braces are tough but you can get through it!

I've had my braces for nearly seven months. Here are some tips from a braces "veteran" -

* The first three days after the braces are put in are the worst! My dentist had me take Motrin which helped the pain.
* At least in the beginning you should ask your parents to help you floss between the braces.
* Once you get the colored brackets you will feel more pressure on your teeth.
* Now after seven months I feel AOK! (My dad says my tips are not necessarily recommended by the American Dental Association!)

Make Your Own Sushi Birthday!

Here is my 10th "Make Your Own Sushi" birthday celebration at Sunda in Chicago. Thank you Tenae and Aeron!

Happy Travels to everyone! - Zen Lynch
P.S. If you need to reach me you can e-mail my Dad - rlynch@kiplingandclark.com

- Tawaraya vv NAHA and Frontera Grill

What do Kyoto luxury ryokans Tawaraya and Hiiragiya have in common with Chicago's noteworthy restaurants NAHA & Frontera Grill - location! Amazingly, two of the most famous ryokans in all of Kyoto, Tawaraya and Hiiragiya, are located directly across the alleyway from each other. Similarly, James Beard award chefs Carrie Nahabedian (NAHA) and Rick Bayless (Frontera Grill) are also located directly across the street from each other, both near Clark and Illinois streets, home of Kipling & Clark!

- Carrie Nahabedian's private (luxury!) tour of Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, Burma and Thailand

Speaking of Carrie at NAHA, please note one of the e-mails Carrie sent us from Siem Reap, as part of her whirlwind Southeast Asia private tour...yes, Carrie gave us the OK to open this up to all of you..

The temples of Angkor are just like the photos you have seen and then some. The Raffles was great, we had a suite by the pool as big as NAHA...Randy has taken good care of us! We had active days and then an afternoon break, Colin slept and I swam in the luxuriously large pool. I also had a great massage courtesy of Bev Lynch and that made my day. We would then tour again in the afternoon, visiting the fishing villages on Ton Le Sap Lake which was having a big windstorm the day we were there. We visited some villages in the rural areas where Phal has installed water wells for his project which is to bring clean water to each village. Hard to believe in 2010, but millions of people in this region do not have clean water access, electricity or even a home with four walls. The water well project will be my next project and I will be asking all of you to donate to build wells. You can't even imagine the joy of the villagers to go to a pump and be able to get clean drinking water for cooking and drinking. They still bathe in the river and we wont bring up the bathroom situation in the villages. But despite their hard living, they are truly lovely, genuine and hard working people who survive as a community. Their kids go to school and they raise all the food they eat. Colin was quite moved by it all, since he has never seen anything like this. One more thing on the water wells...for $350 a well can be built and will supply clean water for five families. Each well has a big sign and who it was donated by. I was happy to see many American tourists donating thousands to this wonderful cause.

Good job Carrie - you would make a great travel writer!

Although Asia is our favorite area in the world, we prepare amazing high-touch, private luxury tours globally. Our clients recently traveled to France, Italy, Turkey, New Zealand, and East Africa. The common thread among all our trips is personal singular service, individually designed. Our sense of passion and enthusiasm for what we do is unfettered and unrestrained - we truly love working with our wonderful array of clients! (Yes, we admire Alexis de Tocqueville's writings)

Farewell to all!

P.S. Coming in October - our top luxury private tour picks for 2011!

JAPAN APRIL 2010 SAKURA CHERRY BLOSSOMS TRIP - PART II EGYPT, FEBRUARY 2011

Greetings friends, clients, and Asia colleagues!

Hope you enjoyed reading our Lynch Family Part I April 2010 Japan luxury cherry blossoms trip. Bev, Zen, Zuri and I now wish to share with all of you Part II, including, of course, "Zen's Journal," our brief stop in Koyasan, returning back to our beloved Kyoto, our first visit to the amazing Kayotei ryokan near Kanazawa and then back up to Toyko. Also, we have included a brief preview of our February 2011 - EGYPT 9 day private tour, including a 4 night Nile River luxury cruise.

KOYASAN

Despite the 3 ½ hour travel time from Kyoto (Shinkansen-subway-train-cable car), we thoroughly enjoyed our brief stay in Koyasan. Founded in the 9th century, Koyasan is home to Shingon Buddhism and is considered of one of Japan's holiest mountains.

With over 117 temples and 53 shukubo (think temple ryokan) set in a spectacular forested hills, we found this monastic refuge to be magical and other-worldly. We were pleasantly surprised with the quality, sincere service we received at the Fukushi-Inn (ryokan). The mostly young, male Buddhist staff delivered a delicious, tofu-centered vegetarian kaiseki dinner that we all thoroughly enjoyed. The meal was skillfully cooked without any use of meat, fish, onions, or garlic. Koyasan's Okuno-in Cemetery temple grounds we found to be most interesting. We walked along a eerie, winding cobbled path lined by tall cypress trees with an estimated half million tombs set on both sides. Many noteworthy and peculiar individuals are interned here, including White Ant Memorial built by a pesticide company to honor the thousands of ants that they exterminated!


Koyasan is where we met our Israeli back-packing friend, Moran. Although Moran was intent on backpacking throughout Japan in 30 days, she seemed tired and somewhat disoriented when we first met her on the streets of Koyasan. We felt Moran was in need of some friendly faces and some overdue pampering. Within one day we successfully converted Moran from a struggling budget backpacker to a part of our luxury travel family. Zen, Zuri and Moran would be inseparable for the next two days!


KAYOTEI INN (RYOKAN) - GRADE A

Located in the small hot springs village of Yamanaka, Ishikawa Prefecture, not far from Kanazawa, our stay at Kayotei (1.5 hour by train from Kyoto) was likely our most pleasurable experience during this 8-day Japan trip.

This place has it all - discreet, unpretentious luxury coupled with traditional heartfelt Japanese service. Limited to only 10 sukiya-style suites, General Manager Jiro Takeuchi and his staff can afford to provide singular, high-touch service to each and every guest. Bev, Zen Zuri and I were simply overwhlemed by the personal attention to every detail of our stay - think of Tawaraya service levels set in a green lush environment. Zen and Zuri particularly enjoyed their private onsen/hot springs bath just outside their room on the balcony. An added bonus of staying at Kayotei is its green, forested setting. Bev, Zen, Zuri and I enjoyed a beautiful hike along the verdant winding path adjacent the nearby Dashoji River, clinging to the Kakusenkei Gorge.


KYOTO
When visiting Kyoto we normally spend one or two nights at our favorite high-touch ryokans, Tawaraya or Hiiragiya. Amazingly, two of the most famous ryokans in all of Japan are located directly across the alleyway from each other. It's difficult to distinguish between Tawaraya and Hiiragiya. They both represent the very highest levels of unpretentious luxury, integrating the finest Japanese traditions with contemporary conveniences that seasoned travelers expect. We always follow our ryokan stays with a couple of nights at the Hyatt Regency Kyoto, our much preferred 5 star hotel choice in this beautiful city.

Designed by Japan's superstar design firm, Super Potato, the Hyatt embraces a clean, minimalist update on traditional Japanese style. Zen, Zuri and Bev love the Regency Executive King rooms featuring washi-paper lights, kimono fabrics, and deep cedar tubs. Incredibly, in the four years we have visited the Hyatt Regency Kyoto, we have seen most of the same friendly, smiley faces at the Front Desk/Concierge/lobby area - kudos to General Manager Ken Yokoyama in retaining such a wealth of young talent.

FUSHIMI INARI TAISHA
Fushimi Inari Taisha, located in the southeast suburbs of Fushimi-ku Kyoto, is perhaps our favorite shrine in Japan. (Fushimi is featured in the beginning of the film, "Memoirs of a Geisha"). Fushimi is a Shinto shrine dedicated to the spirit Inari, whose name was derived from "ine-nari" or "growing rice" or "grain". The 4km-long tunnel of thousands of torii gates at Fushimi were donated by individuals, families, and Japanese businesses. Depending on how high you walk along the pathway, this can be a long, somewhat taxing trek. Bev, Zen, Zuri and I very much enjoyed the eerie, magical ambiance of Fushimi.


ZEN'S CORNER

JAPAN HIGHLIGHTS

Hello fellow global kid travelers!

Hope I gave you a good taste of Japan in my Part I journal. Summer camp is coming soon but I still need to finish telling you about our Japan trip, Part II.

OUR FAVORITE PLACE
Zuri and I really loved Kayotei ryokan. What would any 9 year-old kid not like about having their own private room and balcony onsen (hot mineral springs) - Zuri and I thought we were in heaven. Also, our hostess and the food were beyond awesome. For breakfast we chose the American option which was more delicious than any breakfast I've had in Chicago!

We later walked along the beautiful path from Kayotei to the town of Yamanaka. I bought a very cool skull jacket there. One of my teachers at Parker (Mr. O'Brien) wants it for himself and I am officially bequeathing it to him!!

BIGGEST SURPRISE
Meeting our new (back-packing) friend, Moran, at Koyasan. After two days, Zuri and I felt like Moran was our adopted Israeli sister. The weird thing is that Moran loves Japan but does no eat sushi - Moran, we have to talk!

FUNNIEST THING
The Hyatt Regency Kyoto has these really cool clear glass sliding doors at the entrance - so clear that my dad walked right through and really bumped his head! Sorry, Dad, but next time less talking!

MY FAVORITE RESTAURANT - SUSHIIWA IN KYOTO
Zuri and I agree that the sushi at Sushiiwa was the very best of our trip. The salmon eggs (nigiri-ikura) are so good!!!

PENINSULA TOKYO
We spent our last night in Japan at my FAVORITE hotel in Tokyo, the Peninsula. I loved the room's really cool telescope for looking out over the Imperial grounds. Of course, we can never get enough of the incredible TOTO toilets - it's all hands-free! Zuri became obsessed with the Peninsula's room service - I think she has a future in hospitality!

FINALLY - EGYPT!
I love Asia, but 8 trips to Asia in the past 3 years seems a bit too much. Mom and I finally convinced Dad to travel to Egypt next year - we are so excited! Here we come Nile River!

Enjoy the summer and thank you!
Zennia Lynch

JAPAN APRIL 2010 SAKURA CHERRY BLOSSOMS TRIP - PART I

Greetings friends, clients and Asia colleagues!

The Lynch Family (Randy, Bev & Zennia) has returned from our fourth April sakura/cherry blossoms trip. We were excited to travel with Zen's special guest on this trip, her Parker third grade classmate, Zuri. Zen & Zuri were quite the dynamic travel duo!

Starting in Tokyo, we further explored Kyoto, Koyasan and then on Kanazawa. Similar to past trips we criss-crossed between old and new Japan...The orderly balanced Shinto/Buddhist centered culture of traditional Japan in contrast to its futuristic technology-driven subculture and most unique aesthetics. Traveling within the context of a high-touch, private touring experience, we surveyed additional luxury ryokans and interesting cultural experiences. (think private tea ceremony & samurai sword lesson!) We have decided to share with you our whirlwind 8-day tour in two separate newsletters. Part 1 including "Zen's Journal" follows - please enjoy!

TOKYO (IMPERIAL - MEIJI - HARAJUKU - "MAID CAFE")

On past Tokyo trips we have stayed at the Peninsula, Four Seasons, the Mandarin and Hotel Seiyo Ginza - all outstanding though we much prefer the Peninsula's location across from Hibiya Park and the Imperial grounds. For this trip we decided to try the venerable 5 star Imperial Hotel. Located on the opposite side of Hibiya Park from the Peninsula, the service here was excellent. However, being a large/business/convention hotel (900 rooms!), the scale and size of the Imperial did not really fit our tastes. Bev, Zen, Zuri and I agree that we thoroughly enjoyed or Easter brunch at the Imperial's 11th floor buffet restaurant - amazing food and great service! The buffet offered a traditional "American" breakfast section as well as a "Japanese" breakfast area. The contrast in the two food sections I felt was an appropriate metaphor for Japanese healthy living lifestyle vs the high-fat American diet.

Japanese Buffet: salmon, carrots, mixed cabbage, pickled radish, boiled spinach, pickled nozawana rice

American Buffet: friend bacon, french toast, pancakes, fried potatoes, sausage

FYI Japan remains near the very top for longevity rates in the world while the U.S. ranks 42nd!

MEIJI SHRINE & HARAJUKU

Following our annual pilgrimage to Meiji Shrine we headed to nearby Harajuku and the trendy teenage mecca of Takeshita Street. Despite the overflowing crowds, Zen and Zuri were enthralled with the countless shops selling everything a young global teen would desire - clothing, accessories, videos, food!

SHINKANSEN (BULLET) F CLASS N700 "GREEN" CAR TOKYO/KYOTO

We never tire of riding the Shinkansen (Bullet) N700 F Class "Green" Cars - fastidiously clean, ultra-comfortable seating, and SPEED. These duck-billed bullet trains are most impressive with innovative "tilting" technology that allows the train to tilt one degree to maintain high speeds, even on turns. Another bonus - these trains are QUIET and SMOOTH.

KYOTO (PRIVATE TEA CEREMONY AT TEA MASTER MS. SUZUKI'S HOME)

Although this sounds ponderously taxing, a private tea ceremony is most interesting with the hour or so going by very quickly! Believed to be introduced to Japan by Buddhist monks in the late 12th century, powdered "matcha" green tea is considered the highest quality tea in all of Japan.

Over a dozen steps, including the respectful exchange of greetings, eating the tea sweets, mixing the green powder tea and water with the bamboo whisk, et. al. Following the careful instruction of the tea master, Ms. Suzuki, Zen and Zuri soon became spellbound with the simplicity and beauty of the preparing, serving and drinking the tea. In effect, the tea ceremony is a stylized manifestation of Japan's unique wabi-sabi aesthetic, reflecting a deep-rooted Japanese cultural tradition.

HOSHINOYA RYOKAN (OUTSIDE KYOTO)

Sorry, Conde Nast and Travel & Leisure, we feel Hoshinoya is not quite ready to be placed on our "Favorites" list.

Although advertised as Hoshinoya Kyoto, this luxury East-West fusion ryokan is actually located in Arashiyama, an approx. 45 minute drive from central Kyoto. With 25 guest rooms set alongside the clean, tranquil Hozu River, we found the setting here quite beautiful and picturesque. Hoshinoya is a couples retreat; definitely not a family, kids-friendly environment with few activities. Hoshinoya is trying to combine an "Aman" like sense of exclusive luxury with the aesthetic/culture of a traditional Japanese ryokan. Based on its distance from Kyoto, with all of its rich cultural/culinary options, we feel there are more compelling alternatives for those making a 3-4 day trip to Kyoto: Tawaraya or Hiiragiya ryokan or the sleek minimalist Hyatt Regency Kyoto. I feel the addition of full-service spa activities would definitely enhance the desirability of staying at Hoshinoya - we will keep you posted!

Part II of our Japan trip featuring Koyasan, more of Kyoto and Kanazawa coming soon...including the amazing Kayo-tei ryokan.

Many thanks & Safe Travels! - Now a few words from Zen...

Randy


ZEN'S CORNER

JAPAN HIGHLIGHTS

Hello fellow global kid travelers!

Our 4th sakura/cherry blossoms trip - I cannot believe my first sakura trip was back when I was 6! This was my first trip with my 3rd grade classmate, Zuri. Wow - so much fun!! Let me tell you a few things Zuri and I experienced NOT covered by my Dad.

*Tokyo "Maid Cafe": This was AWK-ward! Dudes being entertained at lunch by young girls dressed like cutesy (kawaii) maids. Sorry, we don't get it! Zuri, my parents and I were all thinking, "Why are we here?"

*Private Tea Ceremony: Zuri and I both loved making the matcha green tea, the sweets and learning all the steps in the ceremony. The Tea Master was so kind to us.

*Private Samurai Lesson: We both agree this was the most AWESOME experience of the whole trip! I think the best part was the Japanese actors faking their dramatic deaths from our fatal lunges - it felt so real!

*Biggest Downer: My dad is a big fan of Ippodo Tea company in Kyoto - but why he would cut short our Samurai sword lesson for a visit to Ippodo is totally beyond Zuri and I. A tea company! Sorry Dad, but boring!

Part 2 coming in our next newsletter!

Goodbye for now & thank you!

Zennia Lynch

Fish Consumption in Japan

Despite Japan's global reputation as the world's premier seafood loving people, we have noticed a discernible taste for beef among Japan's youth. According to the Wall Street Journal (03/22/10) fish consumption in Japan has been declining. In fact, per capita fish-eating fell below meat for the first time since 2006. The average monthly household spending on seafood has dropped 23% since 2000, to approx. $74 in 2009. While staying at Yoshikawa and Kayotei ryokans in April, we will be sure to check the seafood/beef ratios in the kaiseki dinners - will report back to you our delicious results late next month!

Asia Travel Updates

Greetings friends, clients, Asia colleagues!

Based on the demands of our ever-inquisitive clients, the Lynch Family will be exploring more extraordinary lands in 2010. In addition to returning to Japan for the April sakura, we will travel back to Southeast Asia for the Jayavarman Luxury Cruise along the Mekong River, our first visit to the amazing land of Sri Lanka, and finally, based on pressing requests from Bev and Zen, travels to Southern France and Paris.

Please enjoy reading our latest Asia travel updates, including the new "Zen's Corner".

Many thanks & safe travels!
Randy, Bev, & Zen Lynch


JAPAN'S FASTIDIOUS (AND WONDERFUL!) NOODLE CULTURE
No doubt Bev, Zen, and I truly enjoy the many amazing eating experiences throughout Japan,including the tasteful aesthetic of the kaiseki dinner and all the fresh sushi. Japan's wonderful array of slurping noodle dishes may be among our favorite culinary delights. Whether ramen (spaghetti-like noodles), soba (thin, grayish noodles made from buckwheat flour), or udon (thick, snowy wheat noodles), half the fun is eating these various dishes is the slurping ("tsuru-tsuru") – no worries about proper etiquette here! Zen enjoys visiting Sato Yosuke, a small restaurant in Ginza featuring Inaniwa udon, a regional premium noodle dating back to 1665 and produced completely by hand. Japan's noodle obsession is truly a national addiction and still another reason Japan is perhaps our favorite destination in all of Asia!

JAYAVARMAN LUXURY CRUISE ALONG THE MEKONG!
Bev, Zen, and I have had many wonderful experience along the Mekong River whether river cruising in Laos or walking along the banks of the Mekong in Luang Prabang or Phnom Penh. With the inauguration of the new Jayavarman luxury river cruises, one can now cruise from My Tho, Vietnam to Phnom Penh, and then onto Siem Reap and the grandeur of Angkor Wat. With only 27 luxury cabins, the Jayavarman vessel offers intimate, high-touch service while also introducing Mekong River stops that would be inaccessible if not by boat. A complete report from the Lynch Family coming later this year.

INDIA'S NEW LUXURY MAHARAJAS EXPRESS TRAIN
As many of you know, traveling through India via rail is most challenging and not so enjoyable an experience. That's all changed with the launching of the new Maharajas Express Train Service. Beginning in Mumbai, with stops n Udaipur (we feel Udaipur to be a beautiful gem), Jodhpur to Delhi, luxury rail service has triumphantly arrived in India. We look forward to boarding the Maharajas Express for our return to the tiger sanctuary at Ranthambore (yes - the train stops here!).

SRI LANKA
The New York Times recently listed Sri Lanka as it's Number 1 must-visit destination in 2010. Described as having the feel of one big tropical zoo, we have no doubt that sugar-beach-ladened country is on the rise.

Despite our many travels to Asia, we embarrassingly concede that we have never visited this idyllic island nation. Bev and Zen are pushing for a quick trip to Sri Lanka after school ending early June 2010. Rest assured we will keep you updated with high-touch experience that our clients demand.

AIRLINE OF THE YEAR - AIR NEW ZEALAND
Congrats to Air New Zealand for being awarded "Airline of the Year" by Air Transport World Magazine. As a prominent agent of Air New Zealand (NZ), our sister company, travNET, has been a big fan of NZ for many years. We are all looking forward to Air New Zealand's launching of its New Economy "Skycoach" later this year!

UA SEEKS RIGHTS TO TOKYO'S HANEDA AIRPORT!
We are very excited about United Airlines' application to provide nonstop service from SFO to Tokyo's downtown Haneda Airport. With Haneda's close proximity to central Tokyo, arriving here is a huge advantage for travelers vs. the inconvenient far-flung location of Narita.


ZEN'S CORNER
Hello fellow global kid travelers!

My family and I are preparing for our fourth sakura/cherry blossoms trip to Japan. Wow, does time fly, even for a 9 year-old! I love Japan for many reasons. The fact that I need no shots or pills to travel there is a good start! Also, I really like staying at the ryokans. The personal attendants are so kind and look so beautiful in their kimonos. I always tell my dad that I sleep best when lying down on the soft futons spread out over the tatami mats. (So comfy!) I am excited about making our first visit to Yoshikawa Ryokan in Kyoto, famous for its tempura. I will be joined by one of my school classmates on this trip - this will be awesome! Take a look at our itinerary. I will tell you all about our Japan adventures when returning in mid-April!

For fun, please enjoy my haiku:

People in a boat
Flowing down a wet river
Ahhh! A waterfall!

Zennia Lynch

P.S. If your kaiseki dinner is too much food, you can always hide some under the table!


Lynch Family Annual Cherry Blossoms (Sakura) Pilgrimage!
April 2010

Bev, Zen, and I will be making our annual spring break/cherry blossoms (sakura) pilgrimage back to Japan this April.

Traveling to Kyoto in April for the cherry blossoms is becoming somewhat of a tradition in the Lynch Family. Cherry blossoms were literally exploding this year in the backdrop of all the wonderful Kyoto temples and shrines, including Nijo Castle, Kinkakuji Temple (Golden Pavillion) and Kiyomizu Temple. Perhaps our favorite setting for cherry blossoms is the Heian-jingju Shrine the many weeping cherry trees in the gardens are heavenly this is one of the most beautiful, meditative walks in all of Kyoto. From March through May, the progress of the "cherry blossom front" is reported nightly on the weather reports as it makes its way through the archipelago. The local Japanese meteorologists always become animated when their regular weather report moves onto the "cherry blossom front".

Japan's Economic Doldrums

The recent January 2, 2010 Economist offered an interesting analysis of Japan's struggling economy. The declining expectations of many Japanese was reflected in our many conversations with locals in Japan during our visit this past year.

Randy Lynch

"For many Japanese the boom years are stilled seared on their memories. They recall the embarrassing prices paid for works by Van Gogh and Renoir; the trophy properties in Manhattan; the crazy working hours and the rush to get to the overcrowded skii resorts at the weekend, only to waste hours queuing at the lifts.

The bust, when it came, was less perceptible. The world did not come crashing down after December 29th 1989, the last trading day of that decade, when the stock market peaked. The next year Japanese buyers were still paying record prices for Impressionist art at Christie's. It was not until 1991 that the property bubble burst. There was no Lehman-style collapse or Bernie Madoff-type fraud to hammer home the full extent of the hubris.

But once the Nikkei 225 hit 38,916 points 20 years ago this week, life began to leach out of the Japanese economy. In the third quarter of 2009 nominal GDP - though still vast by global standards - sank below its level in 1992, reinforcing the impression of not one but two lost decades. Deflation is back in the headlines. On December 29th the Nikkei stood at 10,638, 73% below its peak, though an expansionary budget drafted on December 25th has given it a recent lift. Urban property prices have fallen by almost two-thirds. Some ski apartments are worth just one-tenth of what the "bubble generation" paid for them.

What effect has this steady erosion of value had on the psychology of the Japanese people? The bust did not lay waste to Japan, after all, as the Depression did to America in the 1930s. Homelessness and suicide have risen, and life has got much harder for young people seeking good jobs. But Japan still has ¥1,500 trillion ($16.3 trillion) of savings, its exporters are world-class, and many of its citizens dress, shop and eat lavishly. As a senior civil servant puts it: 'Japanese people have never really felt that they are in crisis, even though the economy is slowly withering away.'

For individuals the damage lies below the surface. One of the first bubbles to pop, says Peter Tasker of Arcus Research, who has written several books on the bust, was a psychological one: confidence. Instead of getting angry, people lost faith in Japan's economic prowess. 'It became all about declining expectations and how society coped with it,' Mr. Tasker says."