Hello everyone, it’s Zen!
A lot of classmates and friends have asked me about our fun family trips to Japan, China, and so many parts of Southeast Asia. The trips are awesome!! I know my dad sends our trip pictures out on the Kipling & Clark Newsletters, but let me tell you the pictures cannot tell you how much fun we really have – Google times 100!! I say every kid should hang out with elephants for a day in Thailand, spend time with your own panda in China, or have your own private dinner with Geishas and dress up in Japan – sorry Hannah Montana, Asia travel’s got you beat!!
Our trip to Cambodia this last February was also fun, but in a different way. My family and I saved some money to take to the COSO Orphanage and Wat Po Krom Grade School. My dad even arranged for two of the kids at the orphanage (Mary and Sophaek) to travel with us in Siem Reap. The day we visited the orphanage reminded me how lucky I am. My mom and dad love me, I go to a great school, and I never worry about what to eat or what nice clothes to wear. All the kids at COSO seemed happy and friendly when they performed their beautiful Khmer dance for us. I felt bad, though, when I saw how they all slept together in a large room on small, thin mattresses. It was sad for me. When I gave our family’s donation to Mr. Samnang at the orphanage, I think that made me feel a little bit better.
Mr. Samnang later sent us an e-mail to say he bought a new motor for their tuk-tuk with our donation. I remember I saw the tuk-tuk at the orphanage – it looked in bad shape. With the new motor, the orphanage can now take the kids to the local schools every day. My sadness has turned to happiness for my new friends at COSO!
I urged my dad to make visits and donations to Asia orphanages and grade schools a regular part of our Kipling & Clark private tours. He agrees it’s a good idea! All of us can really help make a BIG difference when traveling to Asia and make a lot of kids a little happier.
Well, back to my homework!
Yours truly,
Zen Lynch/World Traveler, age 8
3.23.2009
Altruistic Travel
Based on the current global economic downturn, our need to reach out to those suffering and less fortunate than ourselves becomes much more acute. Although our clients choose to travel to Asia within the context of a custom, luxury experience, they also ask for transformative, life-changing activities where support for a local orphanage, grade school, or water well project makes a real change to people’s lives. Kind-heartedness and generosity to others is a universal attribute we all aspire to.
Bev, Zen, and I agree that our brief February 2009 Vietnam/Cambodia 7 day trip was instructional, especially in terms of the tangible ways we can improve the everyday lives of those wonderful children in Cambodia. We have integrated optional visits to various orphanages and grade schools for all of our clients embarking on our Southeast Asia private tours. Among all of the various custom activities we plan for our clients, these authentic, eye-opening visits give travelers the opportunity to connect and give back to those much less fortunate than ourselves. Notwithstanding the current severe world economic downturn, many of us in the U.S. are truly blessed with much opportunity, particularly compared to so many in Southeast Asia.
Our following 7 day Vietnam/Cambodia trip illustrates the way we have integrated altruism with our custom Asia private tours.
Bev, Zen, and I agree that our brief February 2009 Vietnam/Cambodia 7 day trip was instructional, especially in terms of the tangible ways we can improve the everyday lives of those wonderful children in Cambodia. We have integrated optional visits to various orphanages and grade schools for all of our clients embarking on our Southeast Asia private tours. Among all of the various custom activities we plan for our clients, these authentic, eye-opening visits give travelers the opportunity to connect and give back to those much less fortunate than ourselves. Notwithstanding the current severe world economic downturn, many of us in the U.S. are truly blessed with much opportunity, particularly compared to so many in Southeast Asia.
Our following 7 day Vietnam/Cambodia trip illustrates the way we have integrated altruism with our custom Asia private tours.
3.03.2009
Spring Break Trip to Vietnam & Cambodia
Greetings friends!
The Lynch family (Bev, our 8 year-old daughter, Zennia, and I) is back home in Chicago after a whirlwind 7-day Spring Break trip to Vietnam/Cambodia. Although one of our shortest, this particular trip to Asia turned out to be the most emotionally gratifying. Our experience with the COSO Orphanage and Wat Po Krom Grade School were awe-inspiring and indelible. The following is a brief re-cap of our 7 day trip:
February 15 - Saigon (via UA 895/869)
Hats off to UA for their new, innovative Lie-Flat Beds in Business Class – as Zen remarked, “Awesome!” Bev & Zen thoroughly enjoyed the expanded entertainment package (150 hours of movies, games!) viewed from the large +15” monitors. I settled for the full 180ยบ truly lie-flat beds and the impressive LED reading light (similar to Japan’s First Class Green Car Bullet train seats’ lighting).
Similar to our past visits, our overnight at the Park Hyatt Saigon was restful and completely predictable: personal and meticulously attentive service. The room service, the spa, and concierge are all Asia world class, similar to the Mandarin in Hong Kong or any number of Four Seasons properties in the Pacific Rim. I particularly like the properties’ luxurious rugs: the perfect padding and firmness for morning stretching/exercises!
February 16 - Saigon/Hanoi
After a brief stop at one of Bev’s favorite Saigon modern art studios, we made a quick look/see at the former residence of U.S. Ambassador Henry Cabot Lodge. We now use this beautiful French-colonial home for clients wishing special, private dinners/entertainment.
Following a short 2 hour flight to Hanoi (via Vietnam Airlines 777 Business Class), we checked into the lovely, nostalgic French colonial Sofitel Metropole. We always love staying here. I can honestly say that the Sofitel Metropole has no peer in Hanoi – simply the best!
February 17 - Halong Bay
Notwithstanding the long drive from Hanoi (3.5 hours), the uniqueness and beauty of Halong Bay is well worth the drive. As remarked previously, Halong Bay’s thousands of sculptured limestone karsts evoke a Guilinesque feeling, with the added dimension of gleaming blue/green waters.
Our 1-night/2-day Halong Bay cruise aboard the luxury junk Halong Ginger was a great way to recover from any lingering effects of our jetlag. With only 24 cabins, the Halong Ginger service is personal and intimate, fostering a lively group dynamic among the varied group of international guests. The local seafood and freshly prepared Vietnamese vegetables were outstanding! Zen loved the foot massages!
February 18 - Halong Bay/Hanoi/Siem Reap (Cambodia)
Following our drive back to Hanoi (with our trusted guide, ‘Tiger” and driver Pluoc) and a short flight to Siem Reap, Cambodia, we spent the night at Amansara, formerly the guesthouse of King Sihanouk. Well-known by many of our clients and friends, Aman Resorts represent the pinnacle of world-class luxury hotel/resort hospitality. While Peninsula and Four Seasons rule the 5 star deluxe hotel category, Aman, alone, occupies the very elite level; small, extreme high-touch, singular, and personal. Our Pool Suite was Zen’s early morning personal water park, with Zen splashing in the 6 x 5 meter private pool (at 6:00am!). The dinner (lamb shanks with noodles) and breakfast served to us at Amansara was simple, tasteful and extraordinary.
February 19 - Siem Reap – COSO Orphanage
We have visited the various temples of Angkor on previous trips including Angkor Wat, Angkor Tom and Banteay Srei. I feel the various temples of Angkor represent the most amazing and enduring architectural achievement of any religious site in Asia. However, this visit to Cambodia was planned for Zen’s altruistic activities.
As previously arranged Bev, Zen and I were introduced early to our two travel companions from COSO Orphanage, 9 year-old Mary and 10 year-old Sopheak. Spending two days with these two lovely children was among the true blessings of our trip. Though limited English, Mary and Sopheak established a wonderful chemistry/rapport with Zen – their smiles and laughter were intoxicating – of course a morning swim and large-fries/shakes at the Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor did not hurt!
We were all later driven out to COSO Orphanage. Upon arriving at the orphanage, we were quite surprised to see the entire orphanage and staff gathered at the entrance for a happy, boisterous, heartfelt welcoming. After touring the facilities, COSO's Director, Sean Samnang, brought us up to a make-shift stage for a Khmer/Cambodian dance performance by 
the orphanage's children. Although absent the ornate costumes featured by the Aspara dance performers back at the Raffles Grand Hotel D'Angkor, the precision and slow graceful style of the children dancing was amazing. Despite all of their obvious disadvantages, these kids took great pride in their Khmer culture and had spent countless hours practicing their craft. After the dancing concluded, Zen bestowed our donation to COSO Director, Mr. Samnang (including Zen's own $182). She also handed out the many stuffed animals she brought from Chicago to all the children. Bev, Zen and I were overwhelmed by the genuine gratefulness and heartfelt appreciation the COSO Orphanage kids and staff extended to us on this bright sunny day. I cannot recall a more inspiring and gratifying afternoon.
February 20 - Siem Reap
Our first stop today was Sre ChangHoat Village outside Siem Reap. As part of the Angkor Well Project, Zen was donating a water well on behalf of her Second Grade Class at Francis Parker School, to the families of Mr. Dong Ley and Mrs. Bo Rort.
Among our clients wishing to give back to those less fortunate, the Angkor well project has become immensely popular. For a cost of USD400-600 per pump/well, based on the size and the distance of the water well, one may donate a well, thus providing fresh drinking water to a local village. By most estimates, less than 31% of rural Cambodians have access to safe water. Clients donating to the Angkor Well Project make a real difference in the daily lives of rural Cambodian families.
Following our very emotional day at COSO Orphanage, Bev, Zen, Mary, Sopheak and I had no idea what was to follow the next day at Wat Po Krom Elementary School.
Amazingly, all 500 children of the school, along with the teachers and staff, had gathered at the school’s entrance to form a long procession line welcoming our party. As all of us walked down the line, the students celebrated our arrival with applause and a local Khmer welcome song. After visiting various classrooms, the school’s staff and students proudly presented to us the many supplies they had purchased with our donation – three tables full of knapsacks, pens/pencils, writing books. The sincere, smiling faces and pervasive signs of warmth and friendship were overwhelming. Despite our donation of school supplies, I felt the extraordinary display of respect and honor extended to us was quite undeserved, especially in light of Wat Po Krom School’s many, many needs.
Eric Raisina – Our favorite in Cambodia for high-end clothing/textiles!
Before leaving for the airport in Siem Reap, Bev, Zen and I made a stop at the home/workshop of Eric Raisina. A French-Madagascar native who has settled in Siem Reap, Eric Raisina has become quite noteworthy in international design circles with his distinctive Cambodian silk clothing and accessories. (“Haute-texture”) Eric selected a beautiful red silk scarf for Zen (perfect for Chicago winters!), while Bev purchased a dazzling white rafia skirt. Eric’s engaging personality coupled with his very compelling silk designs, makes him our new favorite for singular Southeast Asia silk textiles.
Bev, Zen, and I agree that our brief 7 day trip was instructional, especially in terms of the tangible ways we can improve the everyday lives of those wonderful children in Cambodia. We have integrated optional visits to various orphanages and grade schools for all of our clients embarking on our Southeast Asia private tours. Among all of the various custom activities we plan for our clients, these authentic, eye-opening visits give travelers the opportunity to connect and give back to those much less fortunate than ourselves. Notwithstanding the current severe world economic downturn, many of us in the U.S. are truly blessed with much opportunity, particularly compared to so many in Southeast Asia.
Japan/April Cherry Blossoms
With Zen’s second school spring break coming in April, we will be returning to Japan for cherry blossoms and a private geisha dinner and dress-up – updates to follow!
Best to all and safe travels!
Randy
The Lynch family (Bev, our 8 year-old daughter, Zennia, and I) is back home in Chicago after a whirlwind 7-day Spring Break trip to Vietnam/Cambodia. Although one of our shortest, this particular trip to Asia turned out to be the most emotionally gratifying. Our experience with the COSO Orphanage and Wat Po Krom Grade School were awe-inspiring and indelible. The following is a brief re-cap of our 7 day trip:
February 15 - Saigon (via UA 895/869)
Hats off to UA for their new, innovative Lie-Flat Beds in Business Class – as Zen remarked, “Awesome!” Bev & Zen thoroughly enjoyed the expanded entertainment package (150 hours of movies, games!) viewed from the large +15” monitors. I settled for the full 180ยบ truly lie-flat beds and the impressive LED reading light (similar to Japan’s First Class Green Car Bullet train seats’ lighting).
Similar to our past visits, our overnight at the Park Hyatt Saigon was restful and completely predictable: personal and meticulously attentive service. The room service, the spa, and concierge are all Asia world class, similar to the Mandarin in Hong Kong or any number of Four Seasons properties in the Pacific Rim. I particularly like the properties’ luxurious rugs: the perfect padding and firmness for morning stretching/exercises!
February 16 - Saigon/Hanoi
After a brief stop at one of Bev’s favorite Saigon modern art studios, we made a quick look/see at the former residence of U.S. Ambassador Henry Cabot Lodge. We now use this beautiful French-colonial home for clients wishing special, private dinners/entertainment.
Following a short 2 hour flight to Hanoi (via Vietnam Airlines 777 Business Class), we checked into the lovely, nostalgic French colonial Sofitel Metropole. We always love staying here. I can honestly say that the Sofitel Metropole has no peer in Hanoi – simply the best!
February 17 - Halong Bay
Notwithstanding the long drive from Hanoi (3.5 hours), the uniqueness and beauty of Halong Bay is well worth the drive. As remarked previously, Halong Bay’s thousands of sculptured limestone karsts evoke a Guilinesque feeling, with the added dimension of gleaming blue/green waters.
Our 1-night/2-day Halong Bay cruise aboard the luxury junk Halong Ginger was a great way to recover from any lingering effects of our jetlag. With only 24 cabins, the Halong Ginger service is personal and intimate, fostering a lively group dynamic among the varied group of international guests. The local seafood and freshly prepared Vietnamese vegetables were outstanding! Zen loved the foot massages!
February 18 - Halong Bay/Hanoi/Siem Reap (Cambodia)
Following our drive back to Hanoi (with our trusted guide, ‘Tiger” and driver Pluoc) and a short flight to Siem Reap, Cambodia, we spent the night at Amansara, formerly the guesthouse of King Sihanouk. Well-known by many of our clients and friends, Aman Resorts represent the pinnacle of world-class luxury hotel/resort hospitality. While Peninsula and Four Seasons rule the 5 star deluxe hotel category, Aman, alone, occupies the very elite level; small, extreme high-touch, singular, and personal. Our Pool Suite was Zen’s early morning personal water park, with Zen splashing in the 6 x 5 meter private pool (at 6:00am!). The dinner (lamb shanks with noodles) and breakfast served to us at Amansara was simple, tasteful and extraordinary.
February 19 - Siem Reap – COSO Orphanage
We have visited the various temples of Angkor on previous trips including Angkor Wat, Angkor Tom and Banteay Srei. I feel the various temples of Angkor represent the most amazing and enduring architectural achievement of any religious site in Asia. However, this visit to Cambodia was planned for Zen’s altruistic activities.
As previously arranged Bev, Zen and I were introduced early to our two travel companions from COSO Orphanage, 9 year-old Mary and 10 year-old Sopheak. Spending two days with these two lovely children was among the true blessings of our trip. Though limited English, Mary and Sopheak established a wonderful chemistry/rapport with Zen – their smiles and laughter were intoxicating – of course a morning swim and large-fries/shakes at the Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor did not hurt!
We were all later driven out to COSO Orphanage. Upon arriving at the orphanage, we were quite surprised to see the entire orphanage and staff gathered at the entrance for a happy, boisterous, heartfelt welcoming. After touring the facilities, COSO's Director, Sean Samnang, brought us up to a make-shift stage for a Khmer/Cambodian dance performance by 
the orphanage's children. Although absent the ornate costumes featured by the Aspara dance performers back at the Raffles Grand Hotel D'Angkor, the precision and slow graceful style of the children dancing was amazing. Despite all of their obvious disadvantages, these kids took great pride in their Khmer culture and had spent countless hours practicing their craft. After the dancing concluded, Zen bestowed our donation to COSO Director, Mr. Samnang (including Zen's own $182). She also handed out the many stuffed animals she brought from Chicago to all the children. Bev, Zen and I were overwhelmed by the genuine gratefulness and heartfelt appreciation the COSO Orphanage kids and staff extended to us on this bright sunny day. I cannot recall a more inspiring and gratifying afternoon.
Our first stop today was Sre ChangHoat Village outside Siem Reap. As part of the Angkor Well Project, Zen was donating a water well on behalf of her Second Grade Class at Francis Parker School, to the families of Mr. Dong Ley and Mrs. Bo Rort.
Among our clients wishing to give back to those less fortunate, the Angkor well project has become immensely popular. For a cost of USD400-600 per pump/well, based on the size and the distance of the water well, one may donate a well, thus providing fresh drinking water to a local village. By most estimates, less than 31% of rural Cambodians have access to safe water. Clients donating to the Angkor Well Project make a real difference in the daily lives of rural Cambodian families.
Following our very emotional day at COSO Orphanage, Bev, Zen, Mary, Sopheak and I had no idea what was to follow the next day at Wat Po Krom Elementary School.
Amazingly, all 500 children of the school, along with the teachers and staff, had gathered at the school’s entrance to form a long procession line welcoming our party. As all of us walked down the line, the students celebrated our arrival with applause and a local Khmer welcome song. After visiting various classrooms, the school’s staff and students proudly presented to us the many supplies they had purchased with our donation – three tables full of knapsacks, pens/pencils, writing books. The sincere, smiling faces and pervasive signs of warmth and friendship were overwhelming. Despite our donation of school supplies, I felt the extraordinary display of respect and honor extended to us was quite undeserved, especially in light of Wat Po Krom School’s many, many needs.
Eric Raisina – Our favorite in Cambodia for high-end clothing/textiles!
Before leaving for the airport in Siem Reap, Bev, Zen and I made a stop at the home/workshop of Eric Raisina. A French-Madagascar native who has settled in Siem Reap, Eric Raisina has become quite noteworthy in international design circles with his distinctive Cambodian silk clothing and accessories. (“Haute-texture”) Eric selected a beautiful red silk scarf for Zen (perfect for Chicago winters!), while Bev purchased a dazzling white rafia skirt. Eric’s engaging personality coupled with his very compelling silk designs, makes him our new favorite for singular Southeast Asia silk textiles.
Bev, Zen, and I agree that our brief 7 day trip was instructional, especially in terms of the tangible ways we can improve the everyday lives of those wonderful children in Cambodia. We have integrated optional visits to various orphanages and grade schools for all of our clients embarking on our Southeast Asia private tours. Among all of the various custom activities we plan for our clients, these authentic, eye-opening visits give travelers the opportunity to connect and give back to those much less fortunate than ourselves. Notwithstanding the current severe world economic downturn, many of us in the U.S. are truly blessed with much opportunity, particularly compared to so many in Southeast Asia.
Japan/April Cherry Blossoms
With Zen’s second school spring break coming in April, we will be returning to Japan for cherry blossoms and a private geisha dinner and dress-up – updates to follow!
Best to all and safe travels!
Randy
2.04.2009
Kids That Need Our Help...
As a fundamental part of our custom, private tour itineraries, we arrange for client visits to local schools and orphanages in Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, and Burma. Many of our clients, particularly the younger ones, find these activities eye-opening and truly authentic, a real-world contrast to their blessed, privileged life back in the U.S.
Based on the current global economic downturn, our need to reach out to those suffering and less fortunate than ourselves becomes much more acute. Although our clients choose to travel to Asia within the context of a custom, luxury experience, they also ask for transformative, life-changing activities where support for a local orphanage, grade school, or water well project makes a real change to people’s lives. Kind-heartedness and generosity to others is a universal attribute we all aspire to.
Along these lines, Bev, Zennia, and I will be returning to Cambodia this mid-February. We will be visiting one specific orphanage and a local elementary school outside Siem Reap (Angkor Wat). In both cases, there is much needed assistance for those lovely children. Once all has been qualified/vetted, we plan to focus our Southeast Asia philanthropic efforts on these two locations. After returning to Chicago, we will advise all of our friends and supporters of the institutions involved and what we can all do to improve the daily lives of these precious human beings.
- Randy Lynch
Based on the current global economic downturn, our need to reach out to those suffering and less fortunate than ourselves becomes much more acute. Although our clients choose to travel to Asia within the context of a custom, luxury experience, they also ask for transformative, life-changing activities where support for a local orphanage, grade school, or water well project makes a real change to people’s lives. Kind-heartedness and generosity to others is a universal attribute we all aspire to.
Along these lines, Bev, Zennia, and I will be returning to Cambodia this mid-February. We will be visiting one specific orphanage and a local elementary school outside Siem Reap (Angkor Wat). In both cases, there is much needed assistance for those lovely children. Once all has been qualified/vetted, we plan to focus our Southeast Asia philanthropic efforts on these two locations. After returning to Chicago, we will advise all of our friends and supporters of the institutions involved and what we can all do to improve the daily lives of these precious human beings.
- Randy Lynch
12.19.2008
Over 60 Being Chic in Japan
Being a big fan of Tyler Brule, editor-in-chief of Monocle magazine and the Fast Lane article of the Financial Times, I was amused by his take on the new Japan magazine OilyBoy, targeting upwardly mobile men from mid-50’s age up. Please enjoy Tyler’s take on OilyBoy:
On the far side of the Pacific, in the new Book 1st megastore in Shinjuku, I stumbled upon what seemed like Japanese answer to Zoomer, only with the slightly more edgy title of OilyBoy. Anyone would be excused for thinking it was a particularly raunchy gay manga – yet OilyBoy couldn’t be more innocent. As its tagline boldly explains, this is a “magazine for elder boys”. Another stamp on the cover even confidently promoted that this was a venture brought to its readers “from old editors”. Inside, it was a slickly produced style magazine clearly created for a male consumer who grew up on trendy fashion mags from the late 1970s but was now looking to remix his personal style or even revisit parts of his wardrobe that he now thought fit for the charity shop.
Always quick to build on a trend, Japanese newsstands are heaving with Lohas (lifestyle of health and sustainability) titles, cosy parenting magazines that encourage young mums to wear smocks and potato-shaped shoes and dads to wear similar get-ups, magazines for 60-year-old women who behave like they might be turning 40 – and now there seems to be a growing shelf for graying men with titles such as Brio and Geothe sitting alongside OilyBoy.
Western titles venturing into the territory have failed either because of their cheesiness or patronizing tone and imager. Oilyboy, on the other hand, is a simple, commonsense guide to looking and acting your age. It gas also won support from advertisers who see their audience the same way and aren’t necessarily trying to flog the fountain of youth behind a series of different facades.
From front to back there were weathered surfers hanging out and cooking, 60-plus CEOs looking chic in Tuscan countryside-meets-New Hampshire weekend attire, illustrated shopping maps of Tokyo, loads of fashion tips, lots of recipes, the odd vintage car, the odd vintage guitar and plenty of pointers about essential winter footwear.
The cast of characters populating the pages were all acting their age, showed none of the tell-tale signs of perma-surprise that might suggest Botox or surgery and there was a sunny sense of optimism from cover to cover. I ended up adding OilyBoy to my stack of purchases because I spotted at least four shops I wanted to visit and there were plenty of shoes that I’d happily add to my closet.
OilyBoy actually made being over 60 a quite chic constituency to be a part of, and there wasn’t a virility advertisement or cheesy grin in sight. Given Japan’s rapidly graying population, it only makes sense that its publishers are leading the way with magazines that speak to a demographic that has considerable spending power and is also hyper-fashion conscious. The trick is that these publishers are having the same conversation they’ve always been having with their readers – only now they’re reshuffling and refining the looks and faces they put on page rather than dressing them up for a one-way trip to the nursing home.
According to the AARP:
“Oily Boy” is the actual nickname of the late Jiro Shirasu, once the coolest guy in Japan.
Tall, rich and movie-star handsome, Shirasu was educated at Cambridge University, where he drove a Bentley. After Japan’s defeat in World War II, his excellent English and smooth demeanor helped when he was called on to negotiate the terms of the U.S. occupation with Gen. Douglas MacArthur.
Shirasu was one of the first Japanese men of substance to allow himself to be photographed while hanging out in jeans. He owned and often tinkered with fine automobiles. On social occasions, his pants and shirts were sometimes stained with oil.
“That kind of man never forgets the ‘boy’ in him,” says the OilyBoy Declaration, which can be found in the magazine’s first edition. “The boys became not adults, but ‘elder boys.’ And that is why we cry out loud: We are Oily Boys.”
Kanno concedes that OilyBoy is not a perfect name for a fashion magazine aimed at 50-plus men, Not everyone of that vintage remembers Shirasu or his nickname or his cool. In fact, Kanno’s first choice as a name for the magazine was “Old Boy,” but a trademark dispute nixed that.
With 22 percent of the population already older then 65 (compared with about 12 percent in the United States), and with the old predicted to outnumber the young 4 to 1 by 2040, Japanese retailers, marketers and publishers are all trying to tease more purchases out of the elderly.
The government desperately wants them to succeed. It is trying to wean the economy from an unhealthy dependence on exports. Growth here depends almost entirely on exports, which have collapsed as part of the global economic downturn and are considered unlikely to come back for at least a year or two.
A government spokesman said last week that for Japan to bounce back, “we have to transform the shape of the economy from saving to spending,” adding: “There are elderly Japanese who are financially secure but refuse to spend.”
OilyBoy, however, is run by Kanno and a cadre of editors who 30 years ago invented a hugely successful men’s fashion magazine called Popeye. Its readers, like its editors, were then young.
“At OilyBoy, we think we can probably make fashion happen again,” Kanno said. “Our intent is to bring them back.”
OilyBoy tries to do so without triggering sticker shock. Instead of $6,000 suits, it features $500 sports jackets. Its male models are on the far side of 50 or 60. They look fit and healthy, but not insanely so. They are out at the beach or in big kitchens or with their beautiful daughters. They wear loose-fitting sports shirts, relaxed-fit shorts and sensible-looking shoes.
- Randy Lynch
On the far side of the Pacific, in the new Book 1st megastore in Shinjuku, I stumbled upon what seemed like Japanese answer to Zoomer, only with the slightly more edgy title of OilyBoy. Anyone would be excused for thinking it was a particularly raunchy gay manga – yet OilyBoy couldn’t be more innocent. As its tagline boldly explains, this is a “magazine for elder boys”. Another stamp on the cover even confidently promoted that this was a venture brought to its readers “from old editors”. Inside, it was a slickly produced style magazine clearly created for a male consumer who grew up on trendy fashion mags from the late 1970s but was now looking to remix his personal style or even revisit parts of his wardrobe that he now thought fit for the charity shop.
Always quick to build on a trend, Japanese newsstands are heaving with Lohas (lifestyle of health and sustainability) titles, cosy parenting magazines that encourage young mums to wear smocks and potato-shaped shoes and dads to wear similar get-ups, magazines for 60-year-old women who behave like they might be turning 40 – and now there seems to be a growing shelf for graying men with titles such as Brio and Geothe sitting alongside OilyBoy.
Western titles venturing into the territory have failed either because of their cheesiness or patronizing tone and imager. Oilyboy, on the other hand, is a simple, commonsense guide to looking and acting your age. It gas also won support from advertisers who see their audience the same way and aren’t necessarily trying to flog the fountain of youth behind a series of different facades.
From front to back there were weathered surfers hanging out and cooking, 60-plus CEOs looking chic in Tuscan countryside-meets-New Hampshire weekend attire, illustrated shopping maps of Tokyo, loads of fashion tips, lots of recipes, the odd vintage car, the odd vintage guitar and plenty of pointers about essential winter footwear.
The cast of characters populating the pages were all acting their age, showed none of the tell-tale signs of perma-surprise that might suggest Botox or surgery and there was a sunny sense of optimism from cover to cover. I ended up adding OilyBoy to my stack of purchases because I spotted at least four shops I wanted to visit and there were plenty of shoes that I’d happily add to my closet.
OilyBoy actually made being over 60 a quite chic constituency to be a part of, and there wasn’t a virility advertisement or cheesy grin in sight. Given Japan’s rapidly graying population, it only makes sense that its publishers are leading the way with magazines that speak to a demographic that has considerable spending power and is also hyper-fashion conscious. The trick is that these publishers are having the same conversation they’ve always been having with their readers – only now they’re reshuffling and refining the looks and faces they put on page rather than dressing them up for a one-way trip to the nursing home.
According to the AARP:
“Oily Boy” is the actual nickname of the late Jiro Shirasu, once the coolest guy in Japan.
Tall, rich and movie-star handsome, Shirasu was educated at Cambridge University, where he drove a Bentley. After Japan’s defeat in World War II, his excellent English and smooth demeanor helped when he was called on to negotiate the terms of the U.S. occupation with Gen. Douglas MacArthur.
Shirasu was one of the first Japanese men of substance to allow himself to be photographed while hanging out in jeans. He owned and often tinkered with fine automobiles. On social occasions, his pants and shirts were sometimes stained with oil.
“That kind of man never forgets the ‘boy’ in him,” says the OilyBoy Declaration, which can be found in the magazine’s first edition. “The boys became not adults, but ‘elder boys.’ And that is why we cry out loud: We are Oily Boys.”
Kanno concedes that OilyBoy is not a perfect name for a fashion magazine aimed at 50-plus men, Not everyone of that vintage remembers Shirasu or his nickname or his cool. In fact, Kanno’s first choice as a name for the magazine was “Old Boy,” but a trademark dispute nixed that.
With 22 percent of the population already older then 65 (compared with about 12 percent in the United States), and with the old predicted to outnumber the young 4 to 1 by 2040, Japanese retailers, marketers and publishers are all trying to tease more purchases out of the elderly.
The government desperately wants them to succeed. It is trying to wean the economy from an unhealthy dependence on exports. Growth here depends almost entirely on exports, which have collapsed as part of the global economic downturn and are considered unlikely to come back for at least a year or two.
A government spokesman said last week that for Japan to bounce back, “we have to transform the shape of the economy from saving to spending,” adding: “There are elderly Japanese who are financially secure but refuse to spend.”
OilyBoy, however, is run by Kanno and a cadre of editors who 30 years ago invented a hugely successful men’s fashion magazine called Popeye. Its readers, like its editors, were then young.
“At OilyBoy, we think we can probably make fashion happen again,” Kanno said. “Our intent is to bring them back.”
OilyBoy tries to do so without triggering sticker shock. Instead of $6,000 suits, it features $500 sports jackets. Its male models are on the far side of 50 or 60. They look fit and healthy, but not insanely so. They are out at the beach or in big kitchens or with their beautiful daughters. They wear loose-fitting sports shirts, relaxed-fit shorts and sensible-looking shoes.
- Randy Lynch
11.14.2008
Japan's Ryokan Culture
Somewhat reflecting Japan’s compelling insularity and high-touch egalitarianism, Japan’s ryokans (inns) embrace a hospitality culture that is truly unique. In contrast to the many 5-star deluxe hotels we have used throughout Asia, Japan’s traditional ryokans offer no customizations and no extras: no concierge, no high-tech fitness centers or affinity pools, no business centers, no choice of pillows, and no elaborate 24-hour room service. What Japan’s premier ryokans do offer is a complete, high-touch immersion into Japan culture and cuisine, within the framework of a minimalist aesthetic. Your personal attendant will provide an individual level of hospitality that may be beyond anything one can experience at any Four Season, Peninsula, and Mandarin hotel. I recently came across an illuminating article by Tyler Brule of the Financial Times who listed 10 pointers for stay at a ryokan. Bravo Tyler!
1. Go easy on the eye: ryokan offers relaxation because the experience tends to be a minimalist one.
2. Avoid veneers: it’s hard to beat aroma of a hinoki-scented structure that’s made from solid timber rather than plastic.
3. Breathe deep: windows that open wide make for a cosy night’s sleep under a meringue of goose down.
4. Keep lighting at the lowest level: most innkeepers know a thing or two about using light and shadow for seductive effect.
5. Make a night feel like a week: the regimented programme allows guests to fully switch off and start to recharge immediately.
6. Forget your toothbrush: all good ryokan bathrooms are stocked with essential toiletries.
7. Soak up the scenery: a private tub with a view often comes as standard.
8. Someone to watch over you: real service comes with a dedicated attendant seeing to all your needs.
9. Adding to the bottom line: in the case of the Asaba and Murata, the gift shop is usually best avoided unless you want to spend another $500 on outstanding gifts and housewares.
10. A rub before bedtime: who needs a massage table when you’re already wrapped in the inn’s pyjamas, lying on your futon, and being kneaded by a pair of ancient, seasoned hands?
- Randy Lynch
1. Go easy on the eye: ryokan offers relaxation because the experience tends to be a minimalist one.
2. Avoid veneers: it’s hard to beat aroma of a hinoki-scented structure that’s made from solid timber rather than plastic.
3. Breathe deep: windows that open wide make for a cosy night’s sleep under a meringue of goose down.
4. Keep lighting at the lowest level: most innkeepers know a thing or two about using light and shadow for seductive effect.
5. Make a night feel like a week: the regimented programme allows guests to fully switch off and start to recharge immediately.
6. Forget your toothbrush: all good ryokan bathrooms are stocked with essential toiletries.
7. Soak up the scenery: a private tub with a view often comes as standard.
8. Someone to watch over you: real service comes with a dedicated attendant seeing to all your needs.
9. Adding to the bottom line: in the case of the Asaba and Murata, the gift shop is usually best avoided unless you want to spend another $500 on outstanding gifts and housewares.
10. A rub before bedtime: who needs a massage table when you’re already wrapped in the inn’s pyjamas, lying on your futon, and being kneaded by a pair of ancient, seasoned hands?
- Randy Lynch
11.06.2008
Privately Arranged Geisha Dinner/Entertainment for Families/Couples Touring Japan by Kipling & Clark
Over the past year Kipling & Clark has arranged special evening private Japanese dinners with contracted Geisha entertainment at various noteworthy Kyoto restaurants. These unique Geisha nights have included one Geiko (term used for Geisha in the Kyoto district) and two Maiko (younger, apprentice Geisha). Together they perform dancing and singing, as well as serving a multi-course traditional kaiseki dinner. Our lady clients have also dressed up as geisha for a very interesting, long-lasting memory.
This is among the very special activities we have added to our Japan private luxury tours. The subtle aesthetic of the Geisha experience is a pure reflection of Japanese cultural traditions – a world that was more common in times past.
Enigmatic, Compelling Japan
Japan is singular among Asian cultures in its amazing ability to assimilate and then synthesize foreign cultures and influences. The contrast between Japan’s orderly, balanced Shinto/Buddhist centered culture and its hyper-innovative technology-driven economy is compelling. One always sees two sides of Japan: Its 21st Century technology as expressed in its auto/electronic industry, sleek designs, and thoroughly modern economy on the one hand seem incongruous to Japan’s structured, conformist set of social norms and religious beliefs on the other. Despite our many travels to Japan, there always seems to be an impenetrable veil in truly understanding this wonderful land. As David Pilling noted, “Almost every aspect of life in Japan from sumo wrestling and tea ceremony to business, one has a feeling of something other than itself, beyond itself.”
I think Americans are most impressed with Japan’s fastidiously maintained and antiseptically clean infrastructure – the trains – highways – roads, clean beyond belief! Our daughter, Zen, particularly loves the delicious ekiben lunchboxes one can enjoy on the train. The Japan Rail/Bullet Train system is amazingly efficient, fast, and a really fun way to travel!
Japan is most unique in its arts/design with its singular and subtle aesthetics: think of their clean, simple, minimalist designs, the meticulous skill in origami and Ikebana, the geisha culture and tea ceremony - all so intrinsic to Japan.
Egalitarianism: Unlike nearly all other major advanced countries, Japan has a balanced evenly-spread distribution of income – one sees very few pretentious displays of wealth (no grand, opulent estates or mansions).
As Paul Theroux has written, “The Japanese have a settled sense of themselves as an advanced culture, a sense that other people simply are not doing things right. Japanese think their food is the best, their way of living is the best. Although they lack space, they pretty much feel they’ve got it all figured out.” – we wholeheartedly agree!
Enjoy this extraordinary land.
Randy
I think Americans are most impressed with Japan’s fastidiously maintained and antiseptically clean infrastructure – the trains – highways – roads, clean beyond belief! Our daughter, Zen, particularly loves the delicious ekiben lunchboxes one can enjoy on the train. The Japan Rail/Bullet Train system is amazingly efficient, fast, and a really fun way to travel!
Japan is most unique in its arts/design with its singular and subtle aesthetics: think of their clean, simple, minimalist designs, the meticulous skill in origami and Ikebana, the geisha culture and tea ceremony - all so intrinsic to Japan.
Egalitarianism: Unlike nearly all other major advanced countries, Japan has a balanced evenly-spread distribution of income – one sees very few pretentious displays of wealth (no grand, opulent estates or mansions).
As Paul Theroux has written, “The Japanese have a settled sense of themselves as an advanced culture, a sense that other people simply are not doing things right. Japanese think their food is the best, their way of living is the best. Although they lack space, they pretty much feel they’ve got it all figured out.” – we wholeheartedly agree!
Enjoy this extraordinary land.
Randy
11.05.2008
India Etiquette
When visiting the huge and wonderful country of India, it is polite to understand and practice their very strong traditions. Much of their traditions are shaped by the various religions that are practiced there, and because of that, it is very important to be respectful of them.
Etiquette is very appropriate and should be followed by wearing the appropriate attire in India. Make sure your clothing is not tight and you are covered when in all rural places. Larger cities tend to be more modern, therefore the locals are used to seeing tourists, so there is more flexibility there in terms of what kinds of clothes are acceptable. Sandals are often worn because footwear is not acceptable in a home, museum, historic monument, or place of worship.
The etiquette is more formal than most countries when dining. People are served in an order by guest of honor, children, and then women. Unlike the Americans ways, eating utensils are traditionally not used; instead you would use your right hand when eating. The left hand is considered unclean.
When entering India as a tourist, be sure to take photographs only where it’s allowed. For example, it is unacceptable to take pictures in temples, at airports, or military locations. It's not allowed.
It is essential to know how and when you will need to greet people in India. Greet those worthy of respect by saying “Namaste” with your hands together (as if praying) and quick bow. Greet the most senior person first, but do not shake their hand unless they extend their hand first. Always apply common courtesy to all when visiting another country. Be sure to tip helpful services such as waiters, guides, drivers, and all bags porters. By following the lead of locals you will be honoring your host and enjoy a safe fun filled trip.
www.vayama.com
Etiquette is very appropriate and should be followed by wearing the appropriate attire in India. Make sure your clothing is not tight and you are covered when in all rural places. Larger cities tend to be more modern, therefore the locals are used to seeing tourists, so there is more flexibility there in terms of what kinds of clothes are acceptable. Sandals are often worn because footwear is not acceptable in a home, museum, historic monument, or place of worship.
The etiquette is more formal than most countries when dining. People are served in an order by guest of honor, children, and then women. Unlike the Americans ways, eating utensils are traditionally not used; instead you would use your right hand when eating. The left hand is considered unclean.
When entering India as a tourist, be sure to take photographs only where it’s allowed. For example, it is unacceptable to take pictures in temples, at airports, or military locations. It's not allowed.
It is essential to know how and when you will need to greet people in India. Greet those worthy of respect by saying “Namaste” with your hands together (as if praying) and quick bow. Greet the most senior person first, but do not shake their hand unless they extend their hand first. Always apply common courtesy to all when visiting another country. Be sure to tip helpful services such as waiters, guides, drivers, and all bags porters. By following the lead of locals you will be honoring your host and enjoy a safe fun filled trip.
www.vayama.com
10.29.2008
Taj Mahal
The Taj Mahal truly is one of the wonders of the world. It is a monument of love built by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in 1630 for his Queen Mumtaz Mahal to enshrine her mortal remains. For twenty-two years, 20,000 men labored day and night to build this masterpiece that has held the world awe struck ever since. It is visited today by more than three million people who visit Agra each year. I feel the Taj Mahal is one of the very few places in the world where the reality of seeing the subject actually surpasses all of the hyperbole and hype. Rudyard Kipling expressed the beauty of this place aptly as “the embodiment of all things pure.” –R. Lynch
9.26.2008
Luk Yu Teahouse and Dim Sum
This is a wonderful place for tea and dim sum lunch. Opened in 1933, Luk Yu Teahouse evokes colonial charm with its nostalgic ceiling fans and stained glass wall decorations.
Luk Yu Teahouse is also famous for being the scene of an execution-style murder in 2002. After finishing his breakfast, a mainland Chinese hit-man calmly paid his bill, then walked over to the nearby table of a local Hong Kong property tycoon, Harry Lam, and killed him with a single gun shot to the head! The hit-man was later caught and sentenced to death. - From an article by Claudia Blume in Hong Kong.
Luk Yu Teahouse is also famous for being the scene of an execution-style murder in 2002. After finishing his breakfast, a mainland Chinese hit-man calmly paid his bill, then walked over to the nearby table of a local Hong Kong property tycoon, Harry Lam, and killed him with a single gun shot to the head! The hit-man was later caught and sentenced to death. - From an article by Claudia Blume in Hong Kong.
9.08.2008
Airline Safety
The New York Times
July 27, 2008
For the 100th anniversary of powered flight, President Bush in 2003 went to Kitty Hawk, N.C., for a re-enactment of the Wright Brothers’ feat. September will mark another major centennial in aviation history, though no ceremony has been announced: the first death of an airplane passenger.
It was Sept. 17, 2008. Orville Wright was showing off a new “aeroplane” at Fort Myer, Va., for about 2,000 people, including Army brass. He took up a 26-year-old lieutenant in the Army Signal Corps, Thomas E. Selfridge, “an aeroplanist himself,” according to the report in this newspaper. Contemporary accounts vary, but the pair apparently made three and a half successful circuits at an altitude of about 75 feet, before a propeller split and hit other parts of the plane, causing it to crash. Orville was badly hurt.
Still, the Army was impressed, so much that the War Department eventually bought the Wrights’ invention. Aviation endured, punctuated by occasional catastrophic crashes that have, in the end, made flying much safer, especially in the United States, where the airlines carry some two million people a day on tens of thousands of flights.
A big plane could crash tomorrow, of course. On Friday, a Qantas passenger airliner en route from Hong Kong to Melbourne, Australia, was forced to make an emergency landing in Manila after a hole opened in the fuselage of the Boeing 747-400 at 29,000 feet, resulting in a loss of cabin pressure. Experts immediately began a search for the cause, just as the Wright Brothers did 100 years ago after Orville’s crash.
“My brothers will pursue these tests until the machines are near perfect as it is possible to make them,” Lorin Wright told reporters right after the crash, “if they are not killed in the meantime.”
The arc of safety improvements has been dramatic. Boeing, reaching back to the beginning of the jet age, found one fatal accident for every 30,000 commercial jet flights in 1959. By 2006, the rate for all airliner flights had dropped to one accident for every 4.2 million flights by Western-built commercial jets, according to the Flight Safety Foundation, a nonprofit research group. (Lieutenant Selfridge nonetheless stands at the head of a rather long queue. Boeing counted 26,454 deaths of people on commercial jets between 1959 and 2006, and an additional 934 on the ground.)
July 27, 2008
For the 100th anniversary of powered flight, President Bush in 2003 went to Kitty Hawk, N.C., for a re-enactment of the Wright Brothers’ feat. September will mark another major centennial in aviation history, though no ceremony has been announced: the first death of an airplane passenger.
It was Sept. 17, 2008. Orville Wright was showing off a new “aeroplane” at Fort Myer, Va., for about 2,000 people, including Army brass. He took up a 26-year-old lieutenant in the Army Signal Corps, Thomas E. Selfridge, “an aeroplanist himself,” according to the report in this newspaper. Contemporary accounts vary, but the pair apparently made three and a half successful circuits at an altitude of about 75 feet, before a propeller split and hit other parts of the plane, causing it to crash. Orville was badly hurt.
Still, the Army was impressed, so much that the War Department eventually bought the Wrights’ invention. Aviation endured, punctuated by occasional catastrophic crashes that have, in the end, made flying much safer, especially in the United States, where the airlines carry some two million people a day on tens of thousands of flights.
A big plane could crash tomorrow, of course. On Friday, a Qantas passenger airliner en route from Hong Kong to Melbourne, Australia, was forced to make an emergency landing in Manila after a hole opened in the fuselage of the Boeing 747-400 at 29,000 feet, resulting in a loss of cabin pressure. Experts immediately began a search for the cause, just as the Wright Brothers did 100 years ago after Orville’s crash.
“My brothers will pursue these tests until the machines are near perfect as it is possible to make them,” Lorin Wright told reporters right after the crash, “if they are not killed in the meantime.”
The arc of safety improvements has been dramatic. Boeing, reaching back to the beginning of the jet age, found one fatal accident for every 30,000 commercial jet flights in 1959. By 2006, the rate for all airliner flights had dropped to one accident for every 4.2 million flights by Western-built commercial jets, according to the Flight Safety Foundation, a nonprofit research group. (Lieutenant Selfridge nonetheless stands at the head of a rather long queue. Boeing counted 26,454 deaths of people on commercial jets between 1959 and 2006, and an additional 934 on the ground.)
8.25.2008
The Olympics and Chinese Pride
China’s most impressive and meticulous management of the Beijing Olympics was truly a “coming out party” and a proper metaphor for a more ascendant, confident China and its place as an economic/cultural power in the 21st century.
What most impressed Bev, Zen and I during our Summer 2008 China trip was not just the country’s amazing economic advancement, but the day-to-day ordinary Chinese we encountered. Nearly everyone we talked to expressed genuine pride and joy in China’s hosting of the Olympics and a perceived long overdue respect from other nations worldwide. China’s humiliation at the hands of the West and later Japan in the 19th and early 20th centuries colors much of China’s worldview and is a fundamental part of the national psyche.
Although most Chinese wish to embrace globalization, western business practices and economic development, many worry of the pernicious effects of Western influences on their traditional culture.
What most impressed Bev, Zen and I during our Summer 2008 China trip was not just the country’s amazing economic advancement, but the day-to-day ordinary Chinese we encountered. Nearly everyone we talked to expressed genuine pride and joy in China’s hosting of the Olympics and a perceived long overdue respect from other nations worldwide. China’s humiliation at the hands of the West and later Japan in the 19th and early 20th centuries colors much of China’s worldview and is a fundamental part of the national psyche.
Although most Chinese wish to embrace globalization, western business practices and economic development, many worry of the pernicious effects of Western influences on their traditional culture.
The Beijing Olympics, in Closing
I had the pleasure of being interviewed last week by Associated Press reporter Henry Sanderson. We talked about how the Olympics were being used by China to showcase a "new modern image." I thought to include Mr. Sanderson's thorough AP piece - it ran in hundreds of newspapers across the country. My quote is at the bottom.
Olympics as PR: Here's the new, modern China
By HENRY SANDERSON – August 23, 2008
BEIJING (AP) — If proof were needed that the Olympic Games are meant to give China an image makeover, look no further than the 10-yuan note: Chairman Mao is out, the Bird's Nest is in. There are only enough of the bills that replace the late Communist Party leader's likeness with the iconic stadium to make them a collector's item — for most of the billions of dollars in transactions here, Mao Zedong is still the man.
Like the currency, the modern image that China is showcasing to the world during its turn in the white-hot Olympic spotlight may be nice to look at, but the Communist Party remains firmly in control. The multi-layered Chinese public relations blitz has helped lure tourists leery of a country often portrayed as polluted and repressive, and has given a boost to Chinese who have rallied behind the games, experts on China and public relations said. At the same time, the nation's leadership has barely budged from its policies.
It largely ignored criticism of its human rights record and continued its repression of free speech. Its harsh rule in Tibet has been downplayed, political dissidents locked up, beggars pushed out of Beijing and journalists covering protests roughed-up. It did not grant a protest permit.
"I think (the) China government has done a very good job of presenting a positive image overseas, but in doing so it didn't change much of its behavior to do that," said Russell Leigh Moses, an analyst of Chinese politics based in Beijing.
While the Communist Party leaders will have received a warm boost from their people for staging successful games, the real test will come afterwards when they have to deal with the myriad problems China faces, Moses said.
For many Chinese, the Olympics have been presented as a comeback from a century or more of weakness and humiliation, the culmination of a "100-year dream." The Communist Party has gained from being able to achieve it.
China has also tried to present a non-threatening image to the world that helps dispel fears of the country's rise on the world stage, allowing it to restore what it sees as its rightful place in the international community. Beijing became obsessed by image in the lead up to the games and anything unsightly was deemed offensive. Neighborhood food stalls were covered up by roadside barriers showing pictures of ancient Chinese-style curved rooftops or Olympics motifs. Factories were shut down and millions of cars taken off the roads to clear Beijing's notoriously pollution-clogged skies.
"This was part of the grand plan to show a new China, and I think it's delivered in many regards," said Scott Kronick, president of Ogilvy Public Relations in China. Chinese authorities are getting more polished and confident in delivering their message globally, he said.
The games' lavish opening ceremony, vetted by party leaders, barely touched on communism and the tumultuous decades after the Communist Party came to power in 1949. The ceremony focused on China's ancient culture — Confucius was quoted, Mao was not.
"China is trying to present itself as nonthreatening and in a lot of ways nonsocialist," said Michael Dutton, an academic at Australia's Griffith University's Asia Institute who studies political cultures. "They've gone all out to try and present a country that's ancient yet super-modern."
China's political leaders have also changed their style. Dark-suited and often appearing stiff in public, President Hu Jintao smiled his way through the opening ceremony and was seen at a ping pong event clapping alongside his wife and International Olympic Committee president Jacques Rogge.
Beijing also has another audience to please — the millions of Chinese who have benefited from the economic boom through growing personal wealth and greater access to the outside world via television and the Internet. It serves the government for China's people to forget about the excesses of Mao's Cultural Revolution in the 1960s and the 1989 crackdown on pro-democracy demonstrators in Tiananmen Square. Better the government be thought of as the stewards of three decades of economic growth that have raised millions into a burgeoning middle class.
Tiananmen Square has been spruced up to include a large flower decoration and a 55-foot-tall Beijing 2008 Olympic symbol.
While a few short protests by foreigners were held there early in the games — and were quickly ended by a heavy police presence — a more common sight has been dancing and other activities on a government-sanctioned cultural program. For foreigners too, the government "wants people to shift their responses beyond the man standing in front of the tank," said Anne-Marie Brady, a political scientist at New Zealand's University of Canterbury.
Randy Lynch, the president of Kipling & Clark, a Chicago-based agency that organizes high-end travel to China, has said bookings for next year has jumped 40 percent since the games began — many of them by people who before the Olympics never would have considered traveling to China.
"The one thing the Olympics has shown Americans is that China has a very well-developed and successful infrastructure, and it's easy to get around," he said. "It's almost like they've thrown the Communist Manifesto out of the window."
Olympics as PR: Here's the new, modern China
By HENRY SANDERSON – August 23, 2008
BEIJING (AP) — If proof were needed that the Olympic Games are meant to give China an image makeover, look no further than the 10-yuan note: Chairman Mao is out, the Bird's Nest is in. There are only enough of the bills that replace the late Communist Party leader's likeness with the iconic stadium to make them a collector's item — for most of the billions of dollars in transactions here, Mao Zedong is still the man.
Like the currency, the modern image that China is showcasing to the world during its turn in the white-hot Olympic spotlight may be nice to look at, but the Communist Party remains firmly in control. The multi-layered Chinese public relations blitz has helped lure tourists leery of a country often portrayed as polluted and repressive, and has given a boost to Chinese who have rallied behind the games, experts on China and public relations said. At the same time, the nation's leadership has barely budged from its policies.
It largely ignored criticism of its human rights record and continued its repression of free speech. Its harsh rule in Tibet has been downplayed, political dissidents locked up, beggars pushed out of Beijing and journalists covering protests roughed-up. It did not grant a protest permit.
"I think (the) China government has done a very good job of presenting a positive image overseas, but in doing so it didn't change much of its behavior to do that," said Russell Leigh Moses, an analyst of Chinese politics based in Beijing.
While the Communist Party leaders will have received a warm boost from their people for staging successful games, the real test will come afterwards when they have to deal with the myriad problems China faces, Moses said.
For many Chinese, the Olympics have been presented as a comeback from a century or more of weakness and humiliation, the culmination of a "100-year dream." The Communist Party has gained from being able to achieve it.
China has also tried to present a non-threatening image to the world that helps dispel fears of the country's rise on the world stage, allowing it to restore what it sees as its rightful place in the international community. Beijing became obsessed by image in the lead up to the games and anything unsightly was deemed offensive. Neighborhood food stalls were covered up by roadside barriers showing pictures of ancient Chinese-style curved rooftops or Olympics motifs. Factories were shut down and millions of cars taken off the roads to clear Beijing's notoriously pollution-clogged skies.
"This was part of the grand plan to show a new China, and I think it's delivered in many regards," said Scott Kronick, president of Ogilvy Public Relations in China. Chinese authorities are getting more polished and confident in delivering their message globally, he said.
The games' lavish opening ceremony, vetted by party leaders, barely touched on communism and the tumultuous decades after the Communist Party came to power in 1949. The ceremony focused on China's ancient culture — Confucius was quoted, Mao was not.
"China is trying to present itself as nonthreatening and in a lot of ways nonsocialist," said Michael Dutton, an academic at Australia's Griffith University's Asia Institute who studies political cultures. "They've gone all out to try and present a country that's ancient yet super-modern."
China's political leaders have also changed their style. Dark-suited and often appearing stiff in public, President Hu Jintao smiled his way through the opening ceremony and was seen at a ping pong event clapping alongside his wife and International Olympic Committee president Jacques Rogge.
Beijing also has another audience to please — the millions of Chinese who have benefited from the economic boom through growing personal wealth and greater access to the outside world via television and the Internet. It serves the government for China's people to forget about the excesses of Mao's Cultural Revolution in the 1960s and the 1989 crackdown on pro-democracy demonstrators in Tiananmen Square. Better the government be thought of as the stewards of three decades of economic growth that have raised millions into a burgeoning middle class.
Tiananmen Square has been spruced up to include a large flower decoration and a 55-foot-tall Beijing 2008 Olympic symbol.
While a few short protests by foreigners were held there early in the games — and were quickly ended by a heavy police presence — a more common sight has been dancing and other activities on a government-sanctioned cultural program. For foreigners too, the government "wants people to shift their responses beyond the man standing in front of the tank," said Anne-Marie Brady, a political scientist at New Zealand's University of Canterbury.
Randy Lynch, the president of Kipling & Clark, a Chicago-based agency that organizes high-end travel to China, has said bookings for next year has jumped 40 percent since the games began — many of them by people who before the Olympics never would have considered traveling to China.
"The one thing the Olympics has shown Americans is that China has a very well-developed and successful infrastructure, and it's easy to get around," he said. "It's almost like they've thrown the Communist Manifesto out of the window."
8.20.2008
Olympics Got You Interested in Visiting China??
If the Olympics have you interested in visiting China - then be sure to check out our post-Olympics luxury private tours of China. Click here for a sample itinerary.
A post-Olympics tour of China is a journey you and your family will love - it's a trip-of-a-lifetime! The Lynch family recently returned from an 18-day luxury tour and our journey is chronicled in three parts on this blog.
Click on these links to read about it:
Part I:
http://kiplingandclark.blogspot.com/2008/07/our-family-luxury-tour-of-china-what.html
A post-Olympics tour of China is a journey you and your family will love - it's a trip-of-a-lifetime! The Lynch family recently returned from an 18-day luxury tour and our journey is chronicled in three parts on this blog.
Click on these links to read about it:
Part I:
http://kiplingandclark.blogspot.com/2008/07/our-family-luxury-tour-of-china-what.html
Part II:
http://kiplingandclark.blogspot.com/2008/08/our-family-luxury-tour-of-china-part-ii.html
Part III:
http://kiplingandclark.blogspot.com/2008/08/our-family-luxury-tour-of-china-part.html
Here's our press release about our post-Olympic tours in China:
Kipling & Clark, the Leading Luxury Travel Planner to Asia, Introduces Post-Olympics Private, Custom, Luxury Tours of China
CHICAGO, IL—August 21, 2008—If the Olympic Games in Beijing have you interested in visiting China, Kipling & Clark – the expert in private, custom, luxury travel to Greater China, Japan and all of Southeast Asia – has introduced post-Olympic private, luxury tours of the many popular areas of China. From the historical and cultural attractions in Beijing to the unique landscape and lush, green rice fields along the Li River in Guilin, from the striking skyline of Hong Kong to the palpable energy and drive of Shanghai, Kipling & Clark takes you on a personalized luxury tour of the most popular areas of China, and those areas off the beaten path, for a trip of a lifetime.
“The intense, pervasive coverage of the Beijing Olympics has opened China’s unique, diverse culture to millions of people worldwide,” said Randy Lynch, founder and president of Kipling & Clark. “My family and I recently returned in June from an 18-day luxury tour of China that included Beijing, Shanghai, Guilin, Zhongdian, Chengdu (where we had a private audience with a baby panda at the Panda Research Center!!), and Hong Kong, and we were overwhelmed with the beauty, art, history, warmth and genuine kindness of the Chinese people. The introduction of the first luxury cruiser plying the Yangzi, The Yangzi Explorer, adds another jewel to a China private tour itinerary. A post-Olympics private, luxury tour of China is a journey you and your family will cherish forever.”
8.12.2008
Aspirational China
Similar to most Americans in times past, I feel the Chinese fully embrace the concept of the “American Dream.” That is, many of our Chinese friends fully expect their lives will be much better than that of their parents – more economic opportunity, higher quality living standards, and more freedom of movement. You feel their sense of excitement and urgency with their quest for upward mobility. Communist party dogma seems irrelevant in the everyday life of most Chinese.
A recent Wall Street Journal article referred to such upwardly mobile Chinese as the “aspirational China.” I fully believe the current Beijing Olympics is a fitting metaphor for “aspirational China” and its compelling future.
Although my family and I have made many trips to China, our recent, long, June 2008 trip seemed to amplify to us China’s continuous change and its unprecedented, spectacular economic growth and development. This last trip brought us to eight different airports throughout the country, from the very small, remote Shangri-La/Zhongdian Airport in Yunnan province to the recently opened Beijing Capital Airport Terminal 3 – the largest in the world. Regardless of the areas we visited, from the far-flung regions of Yunnan and Sichuan provinces to the urban clusters of Beijing and Shanghai, the overall infrastructure/transport facilities we used were practically all newly-built, integrating 21st century technology, and most efficient. China’s transport system has been comprehensively transformed/modernized. In stark contrast, upon return to Chicago’s O’Hare International Airport, I was reminded of the antiquated, aged infrastructure that most Americans must deal with on a daily basis.
Any frequent visitor to China will come home with the sober realization that we, as a nation, have much work to do to get ourselves more competitive in this newly globalized, interdependent world.
A recent Wall Street Journal article referred to such upwardly mobile Chinese as the “aspirational China.” I fully believe the current Beijing Olympics is a fitting metaphor for “aspirational China” and its compelling future.
Although my family and I have made many trips to China, our recent, long, June 2008 trip seemed to amplify to us China’s continuous change and its unprecedented, spectacular economic growth and development. This last trip brought us to eight different airports throughout the country, from the very small, remote Shangri-La/Zhongdian Airport in Yunnan province to the recently opened Beijing Capital Airport Terminal 3 – the largest in the world. Regardless of the areas we visited, from the far-flung regions of Yunnan and Sichuan provinces to the urban clusters of Beijing and Shanghai, the overall infrastructure/transport facilities we used were practically all newly-built, integrating 21st century technology, and most efficient. China’s transport system has been comprehensively transformed/modernized. In stark contrast, upon return to Chicago’s O’Hare International Airport, I was reminded of the antiquated, aged infrastructure that most Americans must deal with on a daily basis.
Any frequent visitor to China will come home with the sober realization that we, as a nation, have much work to do to get ourselves more competitive in this newly globalized, interdependent world.
New Ticketing Policy from United Airlines
Some news we thought to pass onto you - United Airlines has recently enacted a new ticketing policy.
All Economy tickets must be purchased within 24 hours or they will be auto-cancelled.
There are some exceptions:
· Unrestricted/full fare economy fares such as "B and Y" class and Business/First Class must be issued within 72 hours before departure.
· If the reservation is made less than 72 hours before departure, ticket must be issued within 24 hours of booking.
Feel free to contact me if you have any questions about this new policy. rlynch@kiplingandclark.com
All Economy tickets must be purchased within 24 hours or they will be auto-cancelled.
There are some exceptions:
· Unrestricted/full fare economy fares such as "B and Y" class and Business/First Class must be issued within 72 hours before departure.
· If the reservation is made less than 72 hours before departure, ticket must be issued within 24 hours of booking.
Feel free to contact me if you have any questions about this new policy. rlynch@kiplingandclark.com
8.07.2008
Interesting Facts about Beijing
With the Olympic Opening Ceremonies tomorrow, I thought to share some interesting facts about Beijing. Here's a short profile:
"Beijing"
The name means "Northern Capital." (Nanjing is the "Southern Capital.")
City Names
King Wu first declared what is now Beijing the capital of China in 1057 B.C. The city has gone by the names of Ji, Zhongdu, Dadu, and finally Beijing when Ming Dynasty Emperor Cheng Zu selected the name in 1421. Before 1949, Beijing was known in the West as Peking.
Location
Beijing is situated in the northeastern part of the North China Plain, west of the Yellow Sea and southeast of Mongolia. About 143 feet above sea level, the alluvial plain between the Yongding and the Chaobai rivers forms Beijing. The city occupies 6,500 square miles. It is surrounded by the Yanshan Mountains on the west, north and east while the Yongding River plain lies to its southeast. Beijing faces the Bohai Sea, also called Beijing Bay.
Founded
Modern Beijing began to take shape during the Shang Dynasty (1766-1100 B.C.), first as a frontier trading town for the Mongols, Koreans and tribes from Shandong and Central China. This year, Beijing celebrates its 3,053rd anniversary. Beijing includes 18 districts and counties.
Borders
China shares borders with Russia, Mongolia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgystan, Tajikistan, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, Nepal, Bhutan, Myanmar, Laos and Vietnam.
Population
15.244 million, it is China's second-largest city after Shanghai (20.2 million). It was ruled by numerous "dynasties" until 1949, when the People's Republic of China was established.
Climate
Beijing's climate is classified as "continental monsoon," featuring cold, dry winters and summers that are hot, owing to humid monsoon winds from the southeast that bring Beijing most of its annual precipitation. January is the coldest month and July the warmest.
Monetary unit
Yuan (about 8.27 per U.S. dollar).
Government
Communist state.
Major Industries
Mining and ore processing, machine building, armaments, textiles, apparel, petroleum, cement, chemicals, consumer products, food processing, transportation equipment, telecommunications equipment, commercial space launch vehicles and satellites.
Beijing is famous for: Beijing roast duck, Carpets, Cloisonnรฉ, Forbidden City, Glassware, Great Wall, Ivory sculptures, Ming Tombs, Summer Palace, Temple of Heaven and Tiananmen Square. Its top sports include: Soccer, Table tennis, Basketball, Soccer (football), Gymnastics, Badminton and Swimming.
"Beijing"
The name means "Northern Capital." (Nanjing is the "Southern Capital.")
City Names
King Wu first declared what is now Beijing the capital of China in 1057 B.C. The city has gone by the names of Ji, Zhongdu, Dadu, and finally Beijing when Ming Dynasty Emperor Cheng Zu selected the name in 1421. Before 1949, Beijing was known in the West as Peking.
Location
Beijing is situated in the northeastern part of the North China Plain, west of the Yellow Sea and southeast of Mongolia. About 143 feet above sea level, the alluvial plain between the Yongding and the Chaobai rivers forms Beijing. The city occupies 6,500 square miles. It is surrounded by the Yanshan Mountains on the west, north and east while the Yongding River plain lies to its southeast. Beijing faces the Bohai Sea, also called Beijing Bay.
Founded
Modern Beijing began to take shape during the Shang Dynasty (1766-1100 B.C.), first as a frontier trading town for the Mongols, Koreans and tribes from Shandong and Central China. This year, Beijing celebrates its 3,053rd anniversary. Beijing includes 18 districts and counties.
Borders
China shares borders with Russia, Mongolia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgystan, Tajikistan, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, Nepal, Bhutan, Myanmar, Laos and Vietnam.
Population
15.244 million, it is China's second-largest city after Shanghai (20.2 million). It was ruled by numerous "dynasties" until 1949, when the People's Republic of China was established.
Climate
Beijing's climate is classified as "continental monsoon," featuring cold, dry winters and summers that are hot, owing to humid monsoon winds from the southeast that bring Beijing most of its annual precipitation. January is the coldest month and July the warmest.
Monetary unit
Yuan (about 8.27 per U.S. dollar).
Government
Communist state.
Major Industries
Mining and ore processing, machine building, armaments, textiles, apparel, petroleum, cement, chemicals, consumer products, food processing, transportation equipment, telecommunications equipment, commercial space launch vehicles and satellites.
Beijing is famous for: Beijing roast duck, Carpets, Cloisonnรฉ, Forbidden City, Glassware, Great Wall, Ivory sculptures, Ming Tombs, Summer Palace, Temple of Heaven and Tiananmen Square. Its top sports include: Soccer, Table tennis, Basketball, Soccer (football), Gymnastics, Badminton and Swimming.
8.03.2008
Our Family Luxury Tour of China - Part III
I hope you've enjoyed Parts I and II of our amazing 18-day luxury tour of China. Here is Part III, Shanghai:We feel Shanghai to be a perfect metaphor for China's future - young, dynamic, optimistic and supremely confident. No evidence of Communist dogma here - you get the feeling that they have thrown the Communist Manifesto out the window! The energy and drive of this exciting city is almost palpable. As Zen remarked, Shanghai is a great place to "chill, hang out and play."
We cannot say enough of our Shanghai-based guide Faye - engaging, educated, and most interesting. Faye really personifies China's articulate and forward-looking youth.
As shopping and people-watching are wonderful activities here, Faye brought us back to two of our preferred areas, Xintiandi (meaning "New-Heaven-Earth") and Taikang-lu St. Xintiandi is the Ben Wood-designed high-end restaurant/shopping/entertainment complex built on restored preserved two-three story traditional Shikumen buildings - this place is ground zero for superlative people-watching in Shanghai! Another bonus, you will find the home of the Communist Party here! Among our favorite restaurants here are T8 and, of course, "ZEN." Taikang-lu, also known as Shanghai's "Creative Art Park," is a group of backstreets filled with clothing boutiques, jewelry shops, and art galleries. Built into old row house apartments with charming street signs, Taikang-lu attracts a hip, affluent crowd.
Xintiandi Area
As we have been frequent visitors to Shanghai, we did not include our past stopover to the fabulous Shanghai Museum and many of the other sites: The Urban Planning Museum, Yuyuan Garden, and the Old City section. We also missed the day trip to Hangzhou this time around, although we always enjoy visiting there (particularly for the Dragon Well tea!).
When visiting Shanghai, Bev's first stop is always the M50 art gallery area in Suzhou Creek. Since exploding on the international art scene a few years past, Chinese contemporary art has been the fastest growing art market in the world. We returned to M50's Art Scene gallery so Bev could purchase two more Chen-Xing Mao paintings - there goes the budget! While Bev perused the galleries, Zen, Sofia and I discovered a very unique, custom shop - Zedong Fashion Co. Ltd (Hipanda.org) - This is a wonderful place for avant-garde, hip panda t-shirts for friends and family!!
Surprise Hyatt on the Bund
(the image at the top of this entry is the Pudong view from the Hyatt on the Bund)
As many of our friends/clients know, we always prefer the smaller boutique luxury hotels vs. the larger deluxe properties. Based on this preconceived notion, our expectations of our stay at the Hyatt on the Bund were not so high. Our principal reason for staying here was that the Hyatt is the first 5 star luxury hotel to be located directly on the riverfront Bund - a wonderful location. Although large in size (600 rooms), the level of personal, high-touch service at the Hyatt on the Bund was simply outstanding! - Smiles everywhere, and a pervasive sense of kindness and warmth that is difficult to imagine in any place other than a small luxury hotel. We had spectacular Pudong/Huangpu River views from our sleek, modern-designed rooms. Room service is usually a good barometer of a hotel's overall quality and attention to detail. Similar to the Mandarin/Peninsula/Four Seasons, room service delivery was prompt and the food was amazing. Of course, I loved the 24hr Business Center - Bev took special note of the center's comfortable, hip Mario Bellini chairs!
JIA
To get a more urban feel of Shanghai, we spent one night at the relatively new luxury boutique hotel JIA ("home" in Chinese). Adjacent to the vibrant, high-end street mall, Wujiang, we felt JIA to be the perfect place to stay if one wishes to experience young, hip, Shanghai urban life. JIA is located in a 1920s colonial building, with all 55 rooms done in a contemporary 5 star style that is both pampered and high-tech. Our balcony suite had wonderful views of the city activity below. Another bonus - JIA's Issimo Italian restaurant on the second floor! (You were right Patrick M.!)
Shanghai Private Jewish Tour
We have heard much positive feedback about Dvir Bar-Gal and his private Jewish heritage tours of Shanghai. With Faye taking Sofia and Zen back to the pool at the Hyatt, Bev and I enjoyed a half-day Jewish heritage tour with Dvir, beginning on the Bund and ending in the old Jewish ghetto section near Qingming Park. We were most impressed with Dvir's encyclopedic knowledge of Shanghai history in general, as well as all of the Jewish influences. Most compelling was the narrative of the Jewish migration to Shanghai in the 19th and 20th centuries and the major cultural/political/economic influences. The private tour ends in the old Jewish ghetto section of Shanghai where over 20,000 Jewish refugees lived during the Nazi period.
Shanghai's "longtangs"
An amazing part of any visit to Shanghai is a visit to the residential longtangs (alleyways) where one sees everyday life among Shanghainese. Although the number of longtangs continues to decline due to demolition for new, modern developments, there are still plenty to visit - this is most compelling! The longtangs are teeming with life - grandparents gambling with playing cards, noisy animated children everywhere, mothers washing their clothes with drying clothing lines everywhere. Reflecting Shanghai's Western influence, longtangs were conceived in the 19th century when the city was forced open to the west as a treaty port. You see Western architecture mixed with Chinese traditional courtyard concepts, and, of course, the uniquely Chinese way of integrating communal, social interaction among the residents.
There's nothing else to say except China was amazing!!
Our sense of enthusiasm and passion for Asia is unfettered and unrestrained! Please email me if you'd like to talk about preparing a custom travel experience for you, your family and friends. RLynch@KiplingandClark.com
(click here to read about Part I of our China journey)
Upcoming 2008/2009 family luxury trips for the Lynch family include: Southeast Asia and India, (Christmas/New Year holiday, we are hoping the Xu family will join us!) and back to Japan (cherry blossoms!) during April Spring Break.
Our Family Luxury Tour of China - Part II
Many thanks for the kind words from friends, clients and associates about Part I of our Lynch Family Tour of China. Here's the second part of our 18-day trip, including Guilin and Beijing.GUILIN
This was our third family visit to Guilin. Guilin's unique landscape, with its ubiquitous karsts limestone formations in the setting of lush, green rice fields adjacent to the Li River, evokes traditional Chinese landscape paintings. Notwithstanding the large number of tourists visiting this area, it's still worth the visit! After reading about the recently restructured HOMA (Hotel of Modern Art) Libre, outside Guilin, my very artsy wife, Bev, was anxious to experience this very special place. In short, our stay at HOMA came to be among the special highlights of our China trip! Founded by a Taiwanese business entrepreneur in 1997, HOMA represents a lovely balance of world class sculpture, architecture, and art set against the backdrop of the natural beauty of the lush grounds.
Despite the somewhat limited English among the staff, the genuine kindness and warmth delivered to our family was heartwarming. Our personal attendant, Daisy, (all guests are assigned a personal attendant) was a kids' dream. Daisy's sincere, dedicated time with Zen and Sofia made her feel like part of our family. HOMA's art workshop for kids is hands-on and fun! All 46 rooms here are individually designed with hip, funky decorations/artwork, along with flat-screen TVs, modern amenities, and a "wow" design aesthetic. I feel HOMA is THE place to stay if visiting Guilin.
BEIJING
More stoic and perhaps less dynamic than free-wheeling Shanghai, Beijing boasts China's major historical and cultural attractions, and, of course, home of the August 2008 Olympic Games!! We were most impressed with all of the Olympics facilities, including the Bird's Nest and the Water Cube. However, based on the huge media buildup of Beijing for the Games, I will forgo any further review. Suffice it to say that the Beijing Olympics facilities are 21st century world-class and wow!!
Our affable and diminutive guide, Doyle, brought us to the obligatory visits to Tiananmen Square, the Forbidden City, the Temple of Heaven, and the Summer Palace. Built from 1406, the Forbidden City was the China Imperial Palace from the Qing Dynasty. Taking at least 2 hours to walk through the sprawling grounds/compounds, the Forbidden City is a taxing walk for seniors and a "challenging" walk with a 7 and 8 year old! Despite our talks of the history and background of the inner/outer courts (and the 980 surviving buildings!!), Zen and Sofia began "losing it" after the first hour - per Zen, "I love China daddy, but this place is just way too big!"
Most compelling, we made a visit to the Mausoleum of Mao Zedong, adjacent to Tiananmen Square. Particularly for westerners, viewing Mao's preserved corpse is at once spellbinding and abominable. The long waiting line to enter the mausoleum moves swiftly, perhaps not more than 15-20 minutes.
Factory 798
Being an avid modern Chinese art lover, Bev led the way to Beijing's funky art district, Factory 798. Named after the military factory that formerly occupied the buildings, Factory 798 is a must for all modern art lovers. In addition to the many art galleries/exhibitions, the district also includes cool, hip cafes and bookstores. Timezone 8 is our favorite - the best Caesar salad in all of Beijing set in an artsy-soho ambience.
Nanluoguxiang St. (hutong) - Dongchen district
Similar to Factory 789, Nanluoguxiang St. is a quiet, artsy contrast from most of busy, noisy Beijing. Nanluoguxiang really resembles a long alley, and is a favorite spot for Beijing's young musicians, hipsters, and gen X's. This is a great street to have lunch and shop. All of us very much enjoyed the many small custom shops, two of the most interesting - Pottery Workshop (this gallery sells modern takes on classic ceramics fired in the imperial porcelain city of Jingdezhen) and NLGX Design. (Very cool China-themed T-shirts!) Our only disappointment here was hearing that this area was formerly a teeming residential hutong that was transformed by a local developer.
LAN Club - WOW!!
This Beijing restaurant/nightclub is without doubt the most intoxicatingly fascinating eatery we have experienced anywhere in China. LAN is a 60,000 square foot Philippe Starck-designed palace of pretentiousness, and is great entertainment - for kids and adults alike! Including a restaurant area, oyster bar, cigar lounge, and high-energy nightclub, the entire dining complex is designed with a mix of oil paintings and chandeliers, set against corridors lined with Hindu icons, stuffed birds, and an aesthetic that perhaps only Marie Antoinette would fully comprehend. Zen and Sofia particularly loved the dim-lit individually designed restrooms. One of the grandiose restrooms boasts a white leather armchair next to an almost fairytale-like four legged closet. The nearby washbasin bears a bright golden swan stretching its wings, whiles its neck serves as a water tap. All of this is highlighted by red lights fitted out with small monitors resembling eyes - they follow you with every step!! You would expect the food prepared in such an ostentatious setting to be mediocre at best. Not the case here - the East-West fusion/Szechuan creations were loved by all. Bev, Zen, Sofia and I give Lan an A for food/atmosphere/entertainment!
Notwithstanding the various wall locations, we enthusiastically endorse the Mutianyu section, an approx. 2 hour drive from downtown Beijing. Not nearly as jammed with tourists as the closer Badaling site, Mutianyu has a ski-lift service to the Wall itself where one can hike (an earnest work-out!) to varying sections of the Ming Dynasty guard towers, with few tourists and unobstructed views.
Another big plus of Mutianyu - a toboggan ride from the wall to the base. Bev, Zen, Sofia, and I felt this to be among the really fun activities of our trip! Each toboggan has a manual control throttle that controls your speed sliding down (4500 ft.) from the wall highpoint - the entire trip down takes about 5 minutes - exhilarating!! - (check it out on YouTube!)
Next up, Part III - Shanghai
7.28.2008
New Baby Pandas Born
A major highlight during our recent visit to China was spending time with the panda bears at the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding in Sichuan province. It's a sprawling 600 acre complex of lush landscape with rolling hills, mixed with the natural bamboo habitat where over 70 giant pandas and red pandas live. We had a great time playing with the pandas.We are thrilled to see there have been some additions there! Just a few days ago, four giant panda cubs were born within 14 hours. This is a mini baby boom for the rare animals. Click here for more on the story.
Pictured here is one of the babies.
photo credit Reuters/China
7.26.2008
Recovering After the Quake
On May 12, China suffered from a devastating 7.8-magnitude earthquake. As of July 12, the death toll stands at almost 70,000, the number of injured people is 374,000, and the number of people missing is close to 18,000.Today, China is slowly recovering from the catastrophic event. The government disaster relief fund had topped 59 billion yuan (about 8.5 billion U.S. dollars). Numerous countries around the world have donated their time, money, and other goods to China. Domestic and foreign donations have reached close to 57 billion yuan in cash and goods, of which 21 billion yuan had been forwarded to the quake-hit areas. Relief workers have been constructing temporary houses for the masses of people whose homes were destroyed, damaged roads are almost completely reconstructed, and clean up is a daily project.
Kipling & Clark and its sister company travNET support the American Red Cross relief effort in China and Myanmar. If you're interested in learning more, click on the link above.
Christianity on the Rise in China
A history lesson: since the 7th Century, Christianity has struggled to take root in China. Christian followers would go to underground churches to conceal their faith from the government. But now, Christianity is on the rise. In this officially atheist nation, the government has counted 21 million Catholics and Protestants - not including the underground population of roughly 50 million.
Christianity is thriving, in part, because it offers a moral framework to citizens adrift in an age of western capitalism that has not only corrected a heavy toll in corruption and pollution, but also harmed the global image of products "Made in China." Some Chinese Christians may even argue that their faith is an unexpected benefit for the Communist Party, because it boosts up the economic foundation that is critical to sustaining party rule.
Christianity is driving citizens to be more politically assertive, encouraging them to push for greater freedoms and testing the party's willingness to adapt. A growing number of lawyers and scholars have converted to Christianity and turned their skills to the issue of religious freedom. They are teaming up with churches to challenge the government in court, suing for the rights they believe are guaranteed under China's constitution.
Christianity is thriving, in part, because it offers a moral framework to citizens adrift in an age of western capitalism that has not only corrected a heavy toll in corruption and pollution, but also harmed the global image of products "Made in China." Some Chinese Christians may even argue that their faith is an unexpected benefit for the Communist Party, because it boosts up the economic foundation that is critical to sustaining party rule.
Christianity is driving citizens to be more politically assertive, encouraging them to push for greater freedoms and testing the party's willingness to adapt. A growing number of lawyers and scholars have converted to Christianity and turned their skills to the issue of religious freedom. They are teaming up with churches to challenge the government in court, suing for the rights they believe are guaranteed under China's constitution.
7.24.2008
Two Weeks Away - Let the Games Begin!
With two weeks to go until the opening ceremonies of the 2008 Olympic Games in Beijing, there is great attention now on Beijing and its surrounding cities. China's eye-catching National Stadium, also known as the "Bird's Nest" (the most architecturally striking stadium we have ever seen!) will be the main stadium of the Games.Preparations for the Olympic Games include a massive clean up of Beijing’s air pollution. Half of Beijing's three million vehicles have now been pulled off the roads, and many polluting factories are being closed. The chemical plants, power stations and foundries left open have to cut emissions by 30 percent, and dust-spewing construction in the capital will be stopped.
Also, security has increased not only in Beijing, but Shanghai as well because the government is worried about foreign terrorist plots. The government is also concerned about the potential for political protests from domestic critics such as Uighurs in the restive western province of Xinjiang and Tibetans. Surprisingly, Beijing hotels had to cut prices in half in their last effort to book their rooms. But, keep in mind...this is after more than tripling their original prices.
Here are a few interesting news links about what's happening in Beijing in preparation for the incoming tourists:
AP article about China clamping down on business visas:
http://ap.google.com/article/ALeqM5gNmhIfQfEVKFgn5D5agWE421z3ZQD924CR903
AP article about pollution in Beijing, and what city officials are doing about it:
http://ap.google.com/article/ALeqM5hffL1XfQ3apaxbsVWxBAj5QJeJKQD921N24O1
7.11.2008
Our Family Luxury Tour of China - What a Journey!!
As promised to our friends, clients and associates, we want to tell you about our incredible luxury tour of China. We (Bev, Zennia, her cousin Sofia and I) recently returned from our 18-day private luxury tour of China.
Because we enjoyed so many wonderful experiences, I am making the story into three parts. Here's part one, check back again next week for parts two and three.
Part I: Hong Kong, Zhongdian (Yunnan Province) Chengdu and Chongqing
HONG KONG
Although we really love Shanghai, it’s hard to beat Hong Kong – the picturesque, deep water harbor is always abuzz with ferries, container ships and hydrofoil activity. The backdrop of the harbor is among the most striking skylines in the world: an array of sleek, glass and steel buildings (Bank of China building being our favorite!) unmatched by any other city at night.
Exploring the neighborhoods with our super-guide Rebecca was great fun. We added a morning Dim Sum breakfast at local Jade Garden, and a return to the Island Shangri-La for Zen’s adoption reminiscing. We visited the Shangri-La so Zen could celebrate her 6 year adoption anniversary, returning to the King Bed harbor view room we used in 2001. Zen remarked “life is good!” We later recharged with an hour foot/head massage at a local spa.
We very much looked forward to returning to the newly-renovated Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong. This place truly represents understated luxury. We forgot how much we love this place: unpretentious, singular luxury coupled with a very sincere, friendly staff that evokes a home away from home feeling. The renovation has resulted in the new Mandarin’s former balconies being converted to lounge/study area extensions, with stunning Victoria Harbor views. Zen and Sofia especially liked the bathroom/amenities, including the vertical, swivel plasma TV/mirrors – so unique! Similar to our Japan trip, Zen and Sofia had a tough first night in Hong Kong with jet lag. Around 2am I overheard Zen calling room service for French fries and milkshakes - at least they properly tipped the room service waiter!! We feel perhaps no other 5 star deluxe property in Hong Kong offers such a luxurious, peaceful oasis from the noisy, frenetic city as the Mandarin: an A+ in our book!
ZHONGDIAN
Next we flew onto Zhongdian – Shangri-La (Yunnan Province) in southwest China. This remote, obscure area represents the antithesis of the sophisticated, urban environment of Hong Kong. The region, (Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture) rich in Tibetan culture, rises 10,000 ft in elevation on the southern edge of the Qinghai-Tibet plateau.
Amazingly, Banyan Tree Resorts has built a lovely idyllic resort here (Ringha) using Sino-Tibetan designs with each lodge/villa looking remarkably like the local Tibetan farmhouses. The Banyan Tree is located in a lush, green valley that is truly representative of this beautiful, remote land. At least during late spring/summer period, think of the scenery as a Tibetan cultural version of Sound of Music! Our lovely local Tibetan guide, Hannah, was blessed with the physical ‘beauty of her local “sisters” – high rosy cheekbones with naturally beautiful skin, bathed in the local Yak bitter from an early age. In addition to visiting the very impressive Ganden Sumtseling Gompa Tibetan monastery (nearly 600 monks!), Hannah brought us to a local Ringha Buddhist Temple – no westerners here! Walking up the hill to the small temple, we saw colorful prayer flags and many local Tibetan pilgrims. Hannah helped Zen and Sofia tie their own prayer flags with each making their own private, solemn wish.
CHENGDU (Altruism + pandas)
Based on the earthquake tragedy in Sichuan Province, we were ambivalent and reluctant to visit here. After much correspondence and reflection we decided to go ahead with our brief Chengdu stopover. Although we were unable to visit specific damaged schools north of the city, we were still able to give donations to the Sichuan relief effort here. Despite media reports, we were pleasantly surprised that Chengdu itself (a sprawling city of over 4 million) suffered very little earthquake damage.
Based on the perspective of Zen and Sofia, the Chengdu Research Base/Giant Panda Eco-Park was the number one highlight of our 18-day China trip! The sprawling 600 acre complex was most impressive – a lush landscape with rolling hills mixed with the natural bamboo habitat of both the “giant panda” and the interesting “red panda” (think of a raccoon crossed with a fox!). Over 70 giant pandas live here! Before the Sichuan earthquake, the Panda Research Center averaged over 4,000 visitors per day. Following the earthquake, officials remarked that not more than 50 persons visited a day. After arranging a donation with the research center, Zen and Sofia were given a golden opportunity for a private “holding-hugging” session with a 10-month old “baby” panda named Xing-rong. This “baby” panda weighed in at 44lbs! Their group hug with Xing-rong was off the charts for Zen and Sofia – not even Hannah Montana or High School Musical could match this!
In reality, there exists no other place in the world where one can experience such personal encounters with giant pandas – only here in Chengdu. This is a must visit for all families traveling to China!!
Another wonderful family place in Chengdu is its “Peoples’ Park,” a lovely setting for all families, with tea houses, zany rides, and local “medicine doctors.” I am not sure we would recommend the ear-wax removal service using super thin bamboo prods!
CHONGQING
A couple of months back we planned on flying into Chongqing to board the newly built vessel Yangzi Explorer, the first legitimate 5 star luxury cruise to ply the Yangzi. However, due to launching delays until late summer, our Yangzi Explorer expedition is postponed. Nevertheless, the Chongqing stop gave me a golden opportunity to take a full day excursion onto the Dazu Grotto. Dating back to the 12th century, the Dazu art is rated among the great Buddhist cave sculptures in all of China. Luckily, as the Dazu grotto was inaccessible by road during the Cultural Revolution, the entire area was spared the excesses of the Red Guard. Reflecting Buddhist, Taoist and Confucius influences, the detail and integrity of the artwork is somewhat comparable to Angkor Wat. (Please forgive me Jay Xu if this comparison seems untenable!) As Zen had developed a slight fever, Bev, Sofia, and Zen had a Chongqing spa/massage rest day while my wonderful lao ban voiced guide Nancy and I visited Dazu.
This is the end of the first part of our trip. Click here for Part II, Guilin and Beijing.
Click here for Part III, Shanghai.
Because we enjoyed so many wonderful experiences, I am making the story into three parts. Here's part one, check back again next week for parts two and three.
Part I: Hong Kong, Zhongdian (Yunnan Province) Chengdu and Chongqing
HONG KONG
Although we really love Shanghai, it’s hard to beat Hong Kong – the picturesque, deep water harbor is always abuzz with ferries, container ships and hydrofoil activity. The backdrop of the harbor is among the most striking skylines in the world: an array of sleek, glass and steel buildings (Bank of China building being our favorite!) unmatched by any other city at night.
Exploring the neighborhoods with our super-guide Rebecca was great fun. We added a morning Dim Sum breakfast at local Jade Garden, and a return to the Island Shangri-La for Zen’s adoption reminiscing. We visited the Shangri-La so Zen could celebrate her 6 year adoption anniversary, returning to the King Bed harbor view room we used in 2001. Zen remarked “life is good!” We later recharged with an hour foot/head massage at a local spa.
We very much looked forward to returning to the newly-renovated Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong. This place truly represents understated luxury. We forgot how much we love this place: unpretentious, singular luxury coupled with a very sincere, friendly staff that evokes a home away from home feeling. The renovation has resulted in the new Mandarin’s former balconies being converted to lounge/study area extensions, with stunning Victoria Harbor views. Zen and Sofia especially liked the bathroom/amenities, including the vertical, swivel plasma TV/mirrors – so unique! Similar to our Japan trip, Zen and Sofia had a tough first night in Hong Kong with jet lag. Around 2am I overheard Zen calling room service for French fries and milkshakes - at least they properly tipped the room service waiter!! We feel perhaps no other 5 star deluxe property in Hong Kong offers such a luxurious, peaceful oasis from the noisy, frenetic city as the Mandarin: an A+ in our book!
ZHONGDIAN
Next we flew onto Zhongdian – Shangri-La (Yunnan Province) in southwest China. This remote, obscure area represents the antithesis of the sophisticated, urban environment of Hong Kong. The region, (Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture) rich in Tibetan culture, rises 10,000 ft in elevation on the southern edge of the Qinghai-Tibet plateau.
Amazingly, Banyan Tree Resorts has built a lovely idyllic resort here (Ringha) using Sino-Tibetan designs with each lodge/villa looking remarkably like the local Tibetan farmhouses. The Banyan Tree is located in a lush, green valley that is truly representative of this beautiful, remote land. At least during late spring/summer period, think of the scenery as a Tibetan cultural version of Sound of Music! Our lovely local Tibetan guide, Hannah, was blessed with the physical ‘beauty of her local “sisters” – high rosy cheekbones with naturally beautiful skin, bathed in the local Yak bitter from an early age. In addition to visiting the very impressive Ganden Sumtseling Gompa Tibetan monastery (nearly 600 monks!), Hannah brought us to a local Ringha Buddhist Temple – no westerners here! Walking up the hill to the small temple, we saw colorful prayer flags and many local Tibetan pilgrims. Hannah helped Zen and Sofia tie their own prayer flags with each making their own private, solemn wish.
CHENGDU (Altruism + pandas)
Based on the earthquake tragedy in Sichuan Province, we were ambivalent and reluctant to visit here. After much correspondence and reflection we decided to go ahead with our brief Chengdu stopover. Although we were unable to visit specific damaged schools north of the city, we were still able to give donations to the Sichuan relief effort here. Despite media reports, we were pleasantly surprised that Chengdu itself (a sprawling city of over 4 million) suffered very little earthquake damage.
Based on the perspective of Zen and Sofia, the Chengdu Research Base/Giant Panda Eco-Park was the number one highlight of our 18-day China trip! The sprawling 600 acre complex was most impressive – a lush landscape with rolling hills mixed with the natural bamboo habitat of both the “giant panda” and the interesting “red panda” (think of a raccoon crossed with a fox!). Over 70 giant pandas live here! Before the Sichuan earthquake, the Panda Research Center averaged over 4,000 visitors per day. Following the earthquake, officials remarked that not more than 50 persons visited a day. After arranging a donation with the research center, Zen and Sofia were given a golden opportunity for a private “holding-hugging” session with a 10-month old “baby” panda named Xing-rong. This “baby” panda weighed in at 44lbs! Their group hug with Xing-rong was off the charts for Zen and Sofia – not even Hannah Montana or High School Musical could match this!
In reality, there exists no other place in the world where one can experience such personal encounters with giant pandas – only here in Chengdu. This is a must visit for all families traveling to China!!
Another wonderful family place in Chengdu is its “Peoples’ Park,” a lovely setting for all families, with tea houses, zany rides, and local “medicine doctors.” I am not sure we would recommend the ear-wax removal service using super thin bamboo prods!
CHONGQING
A couple of months back we planned on flying into Chongqing to board the newly built vessel Yangzi Explorer, the first legitimate 5 star luxury cruise to ply the Yangzi. However, due to launching delays until late summer, our Yangzi Explorer expedition is postponed. Nevertheless, the Chongqing stop gave me a golden opportunity to take a full day excursion onto the Dazu Grotto. Dating back to the 12th century, the Dazu art is rated among the great Buddhist cave sculptures in all of China. Luckily, as the Dazu grotto was inaccessible by road during the Cultural Revolution, the entire area was spared the excesses of the Red Guard. Reflecting Buddhist, Taoist and Confucius influences, the detail and integrity of the artwork is somewhat comparable to Angkor Wat. (Please forgive me Jay Xu if this comparison seems untenable!) As Zen had developed a slight fever, Bev, Sofia, and Zen had a Chongqing spa/massage rest day while my wonderful lao ban voiced guide Nancy and I visited Dazu.
This is the end of the first part of our trip. Click here for Part II, Guilin and Beijing.
Click here for Part III, Shanghai.
7.10.2008
All Eyes on China
Amazing! Incredible! Stunning! These are just a few of the words that describe our Lynch Family private luxury tour of China. For 18 days we enjoyed five-star hotels, extraordinary service and took in all the beauty and culture of this great country. From Beijing to Hong Kong to Chengdu, from Guilin to Shanghai, we have so much to share with you! (And Zen and cousin Sofia had the best time visiting with the Panda bears!)Meantime, with all eyes on China now because of the upcoming Beijing Olympics, I want to take a moment to talk about summer tourism in China, specifically in Beijing. It was originally expected that Beijing would see a boom in tourists for the Olympics - but this is not happening. Perhaps you've read the recent headlines about how Beijing is a bust for the hotel industry??
The best time to visit Beijing is *after* the Olympics, after the hoopla and the lights. I'll have much more on this in my next posting. For now, here's a link to an interesting story from the AP about the tourism bust in Beijing:
6.04.2008
Our Next Lynch Family Adventure: CHINA
We are excited to share our summer travel plans to China. The Lynch family (Bev, Zen, her cousin Sofia and I) is heading to China for a private luxury tour June 12 - June 29. Many clients and friends have been asking for details about our next family adventure, so I thought to share some of our itinerary:HONG KONG, YUNNAN & CHENGDU
We arrive in Hong Kong nonstop from Chicago where we'll stay at the recently renewed five-star Mandarin Oriental. We plan to explore some interesting Hong Kong neighborhoods, in addition to day-tripping to Macau to get a look-see at the new Asia "Las Vegas." Although the Mandarin has always been one of our favorites, we have not stayed here since its 2007 room recreations.
From Hong Kong we'll fly to Zhongdian/Shangri-La (Yunnan Province) to visit fascinating peoples of this remote gateway to Tibet. Here we'll stay at the luxury Banyan Tree Resort in Ringha. We'll spend a couple of days with our local guide including visits to:
- Bev is very much looking forward to visiting Songzangling Monastery: first built in the late 17th century under the auspices of the fifth Dalai Lama, this monastery has more than 800 monks and is a noted Buddhist religious college with halls for chanting and instructing. It's quite compelling.
- We will also visit Ringha Village (Khamph Tibetan), and of course, dancing with the evening local townspeople is a must!
Our next stop we feel will be a sad but necessary visit in Chengdu. Our daughter Zennia, and her cousin Sofia, plan to visit two specific elementary schools to bring various school supplies and lend our moral support to these precious children affected by the earthquake.
Before our departure the next day, we will return to the Panda Research Center where we will be introduced to recently-born baby pandas. (We must always be careful holding the babies - cuddly but playful biters!!)
CHONGQING and GUILIN
From Chengdu, we'll travel onto Chongqing where we will explore the Grotto Art Dazu. Located about 100 miles outside of Chongqing, these Buddhist cave sculptures and carvings range from the 9th to the 13th century. They are rated among the foremost expressions of Buddhist - Taoist - Confucius influence in all of China.
We will then fly onto the strikingly beautiful area of Guilin, where we'll stay at the Hotel of Modern Art, a very relaxing and peaceful property located in the awe-inspiring countryside. In Guilin we'll take a private boat excursion on the Li River. We will also visit the Valley of Longji (Dragon Spire), consisting of picturesque hills sculpted into tightly pocketed rice fields (think Bali!).
BEIJING and SHANGHAI
Following Guilin, we will fly to Beijing and immense ourselves in all of the pre-Olympics activities. We'll be here June 21 - 25, staying at the famed Raffles Beijing Hotel. We'll tour the Olympic Stadium, Olympic Pools, Factory 798 (the most interesting collection of China modern art and art studios in all of China), and the Capitol Museum. Our private, guided tour also includes visits to the "Wild Wall" - (rigorous exercise for us all!) - Tiananmen Square, the Forbidden City and various "Hutongs". We are very excited to return to the Green Tea House and Lan Club for some wonderful East-West/Chinese cuisine!
From Beijing we'll fly to Shanghai for the last leg of our luxury expedition. We are staying at the recently opened five-star Hyatt on the Bund, located on the banks of the Huang Pu River.
As Shanghai is our FAVORITE city in all of China, we have plenty of activities planned including: an all day walk through the wonderful French Concession area and Xintiande (dinner at T8!), a morning excursion to the ancient river town of Zhujiajiao, and a Shanghai Jewish history private tour with Dvir Bar-Gal. Of course, our daughter Zennia has demanded a return to several Shanghai elementary schools to share stories and discuss the latest Disney musical videos! Among our return, dinner venues will be M on the Bund and Issimo at the new JIA Hotel.
On June 29, we'll leave Shanghai from the Pudong International Airport on a United Airlines nonstop flight returning home to the "stormy, husky, brawling city of big shoulders!"
We'll have a complete wrap up of our journey upon our return. Meantime, I will be posting highlights during our trip on our blog.
Bon Voyage!
Randy Lynch & Family
P.S. If this itinerary interests you and you'd like to create a private family luxury expedition to China, or to Japan, or anywhere in the Pacific Rim, we are happy to talk with you anytime: 800.354.3404 Click here for sample itineraries to the Pacific Rim
5.05.2008
Travelogue Japan: Our Spring Break Luxury Tour of Japan
As many friends and clients have inquired about experiencing Japan, the Lynch family - Randy, Bev, Zen and cousin Sofia – is happy to share the details of our extraordinary whirlwind visit to Japan over spring break. We had an amazing time. We were pampered, impressed and made to feel welcomed everywhere we visited. Here is an overview of our trip:TOKYO
We arrived in Tokyo Sunday afternoon and our Kipling & Clark representative transferred us by private vehicle to the recently opened Peninsula Tokyo for check in. This was our first visit to the recently opened Peninsula Tokyo - we were most impressed with the very personal, friendly staff, as well as the aesthetic and design of the property. From the Peninsula's "Grand Deluxe" rooms, you have a great view of the Imperial Palace grounds and Hibiya Park. Bev & I think this maybe perhaps the premiere 5 star deluxe hotel in Tokyo.
After arriving the night before, Zen and Sofia had major jetlag, waking at 2am and then ordering an elaborate room service meal of hot chocolate, oatmeal, lox & bagels and pancakes. Later we all walked across the street to enjoy the lush, green Hibiya Park. Like most everything in Japan it was beautiful and meticulously clean. Some details about the hotel: men will love the high-magnification Aliseo shaving mirrors in the Peninsula bathrooms and the always amazing, oscillating heated massage and powder deodorizing Toto toilets--why can't we have these in the U.S.?!
Once we left Takishita, we headed to chic, hip Omotesando for shopping and then onto the beautiful 175-acre evergreen-forested grounds of the Shinto Meiji Shrine. It's hard to imagine that this tranquil, lush place is in the middle of one of the largest cities in the world. The imposing Torii gate leading to the shrine is most impressive, as well as the many colorful barrels of donated sake displayed near the shrine. Zen & Sofia reflected on their dreams and wishes, and left their written messages on wooden plates at the Emma.
Being a decades-long super-fan of the Beatles' John Lennon, Bev had our guide take us on the 1.5 hour long pilgrimage drive outside downtown Tokyo to the John Lennon Museum. Although Bev felt the exhibitions were tilted a bit too much toward Yoko's point of view, we all loved the John Lennon music and fascinating memorabilia.
TRAVELING THROUGH JAPAN
Whenever traveling throughout Japan, the clean, super-efficient bullet train transport system is always a comfortable, satisfying experience. Two reminders though: Firstly, porterage help is *not* available at any of the Japan railway station so you must fend for your own baggage. Secondly, the overhead luggage rack space is limited, even in first class cars. Conventional, large suitcases are a real burden. Alternatively, you may *truck* your bags from Tokyo to outlying areas; we have done this frequently with past clients traveling "heavy".
TOKYO – TAKAYAMA
Tokyo via Nagoya to Takayam is a five hour train rain via the bullet train, which is efficient, clean and fastidiously punctual. Bev and I agree that Takayama is a less pretentious, more egalitarian Japanese Alpine version of Carmel, California.
Because of our whirlwind schedule, we were unable to attend the annual Takayama Spring Festival (Sanno Matsuri) (Apr 14-15). The Festival includes a wonderfully colorful night festival of floats accompanied by marionette performances.
We were able to take a two-hour drive out to Ogimachi and the village in Shirakawa-gu, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to many picturesque gasshozukuri farmhouses, many dating back to the 16th century.
NAGASE RYOKAN
Located in the traditional Edo village of Takayama, Nagase Ryokan may seem a bit touristy at first, but be assured staying here is a rewarding experience. The Nagase Ryokan has been operated by the same family for over 250 years! It has only 11 rooms, most with private gardens.
Although the reception area staff speaks English, the room attendants' English is very limited. No worries, however, as you can easily communicate any of your needs. The dinner presentation at Nagase is amazing, as well as the variety of dishes including grilled river fish, Hida beef and crab Nabe. All meals are served in the privacy of your room.
We loved the afternoon stroll through Sannomachi Street, with many historical homes, coffee houses, and sake breweries, many having been in business for centuries!
KYOTO
Traveling to Kyoto in April for the cherry blossoms is becoming somewhat of a tradition in the Lynch Family. Cherry blossoms were literally exploding this year in the backdrop of all the wonderful Kyoto temples and shrines, including Nijo Castle, Kinkakuji Temple (Golden Pavillion) and Kiyomizu Temple. Perhaps our favorite setting for cherry blossoms is the Heian-jingju Shrine – the many weepy cherry trees in the gardens are heavenly – this is one of the most beautiful, meditative walks in all of Kyoto.
THE TAWARAYA RYOKAN
The Tawaraya Ryokan is considered the most famous ryokan in all of Japan. Our only regret is that we stayed here only one night. It is subtle, high-touch service. The cypress tub and bathroom fixtures are all custom, and the bed sheets are luxurious Egyptian cotton. The outside private gardens are lush and green with a surreal Zen-like ambience. Everything in the room seems in perfect rhythm and harmony: simplistic, understated aesthetic.
FUSHIMI SHRINE
Of course, we returned to our favorite Shinto Shrine in all of Japan, the Fushimi Inari Taisha. You may have seen the bright red/orange torii of Fushimi in the film "Memories of a Geisha." Dating back tot he 8th century, the shrine includes a wandering pathway around three miles up the mountain, lined with hundreds of beautiful red torii, now faded to look orange.
Fushimi is the most famous of several thousand shrines across Japan dedicated to Inar. Inari is the Shinto god of rice, and foxes are believed to be his messengers, hence the many fox statues found along the pathway. Walking up the pathway early in the morning, Bev, Zen, Sofia, and I very much enjoyed the magical, eerie ambience, and the two-and-a-half hour hike.
HYATT REGENCY KYOTO
The Hyatt Regency Kyoto is located in the southeast area of Kyoto near the train station which is very convenient. Its minimalist, Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired design with spacious rooms featuring all the latest amenities. The sliding doors and windows enable guests to bring in fresh air to evoke a modern-style ryokan feeling. The Hyatt Regency is comparable to a stay at the Tawaraya Ryokan, or the Yoshida-sanso ryokan residence.
Despite our many travels to Japan, there always seems to be an impenetrable veil in truly understanding this wonderful land. As David Pilling noted, “Almost every aspect of life in Japan from sumo wrestling and tea ceremony to business, one has a feeling of something other than itself, beyond itself.”
In terms of first-time visitors, one is most impressed with the meticulous cleanliness of everything in Japan, the precise speed and efficiency of the transport (bullet)/transit system, the lovely and subtle Japan aesthetic, and finally, the democratic egalitarianism of the Japanese. We truly enjoy this wonderful place!
You are welcomed to view a sample itinerary of this private luxury tour of Japan at: http://internetmailmanager.com/i/ou.htm?a=156237&b=1159737&c=11405368&d=http:~~kiplingandclark.com~pagesNew~KC_Japan_SpringBreak_itin1.pdf
Our next trip is coming up in early June – Hong Kong and the China hinterlands! Send me an email and I'll tell you more about it: Newsletter@KiplingandClark.com
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