Seasons Greetings friends, clients and associates!
Over the past several years clients and airlines alike have asked us for our opinions on the various hotels we have stayed at in Asia. Based on our annual travels to the Pacific Rim, Bev, Zen and I are continuously (re)evaluating what we consider the very best luxury hotels/ryokans in Asia. Here is the Kipling & Clark/Lynch Family Top 10 Favorite Asia Luxury hotels/Ryokans, 2010 Edition.
Also, please note Zen's Top 5 Fun Travel Experiences in Asia.Safe Travels!
Randy, Ben & Zen Lynch
rlynch@kiplingandclark.com
1. TIED – Tawaraya Ryokan and Hiiragiya Ryokan – Kyoto, JapanNo change from 2009 – we cannot imagine more respectful, high-touch service or more cultural immersion anywhere else!
Amazingly, two of the most famous ryokans (Japanese inns) in Kyoto are located directly across the alleyway from each other. It’s difficult to distinguish Tawaraya from Hiiragiya – they both represent the very highest levels of high-touch service. A big part of Japan’s uniqueness is its wabi-sabi aesthetic. Wabi-sabi is a Japanese worldview/state-of-mind emphasizing simplicity and purity – the beauty and awe of all things humble, unpretentious and imperfect. Both ryokans successfully integrate the finest Japanese traditions and wabi-sabi philosophy with contemporary conveniences that seasoned travelers expect.
When staying at Tawaraya or Hiiragiya, one can expect a complete, comprehensive immersion into traditional Japanese culture, including a meticulously prepared and delicious multi-course kaiseki dinner. An added once-in-a-lifetime experience is a Kipling & Clark arranged private Geiko and Maiko geisha dinner at either ryokan. (Kipling & Clark can arrange through a private geisha house, “okiya”)
Luxury in ryokan terms is quite different from luxury in a traditional western sense. The high costs of staying at one of these ryokans has no correlation with sleek, modern amenities such as flat-screen TVs/sound systems, high-tech bathrooms or 5-star 24-hour room service, but, rather, due to the meticulous, sincere high-touch immersion into Japanese culture one experiences. This includes your own dedicated Japanese room attendant who individually serves your meals, prepares your bedding, and provides a wabi-sabi centered service that is pure and real.
Our favorite rooms:
Tawaraya – "Izumi" room (8 + 7.5 tatami mats)
Hiiragiya – Room #30 in main building (large - 15 + 14 tatami mats!), Room #51 in new annex building (10 + 3 tatami mats; although small, #51 is cozy and has wonderful lighting from the window)
2. Four Seasons Tag Team! (Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai/Thailand)We cannot imagine two nearby luxury resorts with better service or more beautiful settings. First, the Four Seasons Chiang Mai – landscaped gardens, water lily ponds, water buffalo (Zen loves the morning rides!), set in terraced rice paddies. No pretention here, the service is subtle, heartfelt, natural, almost wabi-sabiesque in its delivery. Although smaller (only 15 free-standing luxury “tents”) in scale, the Four Seasons Tented Camp/Chiang Rai, Golden Triangle offers every bit of service as its sister property in Chiang Mai. Set in a lush hillside overlooking Burma and Laos, the tented accommodations offer every custom amenity imaginable. The focal point here is elephants – much fun!
Our favorite rooms: Rice-Terrace View Pavilions in Chiang Mai and tents #1 or #2 in Chiang Rai.
3. TIED – Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong & Mandarin Oriental BangkokThe Mandarin in Hong Kong and the Oriental in Bangkok are our two favorites in Hong Kong and Bangkok, respectively.
• Mandarin Hong Kong: Although we very much enjoy the Four Seasons, the Peninsula, and the Intercontinental in Hong Kong, we must give a slight edge to the Mandarin, especially since its 2007/2008 renovation. This place truly represents understated luxury. The renovation has resulted in the Mandarin’s former balconies being converted to lounge/study area extensions, with stunning Victoria Harbor views. We especially like the bathroom/amenities, including the vertical, swivel plasma TV/mirrors – so unique! The Mandarin offers a luxurious, peaceful oasis from the noisy, frenetic city outside.
Our favorite rooms: Deluxe Harbor & Harbor Suite Rooms
• The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok is our absolute favorite in Bangkok. Boasting a 130 year history of tradition and the highest level of service makes this place a truly unique luxury property. Unpretentious, understated, attentive. We particularly enjoy the Executive Suites overlooking the Chao Phraya River. Bev and Zen are big fans of the Oriental Spa, located just across the river from the hotel, designed in a traditional Thai-style house of beautiful teak wood. The Oriental Bangkok may have the largest, most varied breakfast buffet in all of Asia!
Our favorite rooms: River View State Rooms & Author Suites
4. Gora Kadan Ryokan – Hakone, JapanA short 45-minute bullet train ride from Tokyo, the Gora Kadan is a quiet, Shinto-Buddhistque oasis from the big city, offering its rejuvenating onsen (hot mineral springs).
Proprietress Mikawako, the third generation of Fujimotos to run Gora Kadan, has blended traditional Japanese ryokan hospitality with modern Western design in creating a luxurious ryokan spa experience. The Gora Kadan’s original building dates back to 300 years and was the summer home of the Kan’in-No-Miya imperial family.
We love the rooms with private granite open mineral springs bath, fed by the Gora Kadan’s natural springs. With its airy east-west fusion aesthetic, its wonderful (Kaiseki) food service, and total relaxation spa, Gora Kadan is definitely on our A-list for high-touch ryokans in Japan.
Our favorite room: Japanese style "Aoi" suite with private mineral springs bath!
5. Peninsula – TokyoThe 24-story Peninsula has the best luxury hotel location in Tokyo, directly across from lovely Hibiya Park (think 5K run!), Imperial grounds, and adjacent to the amazing Ginza shopping district. Envisioned by architect Kuzukiyo Sato to look like a giant Japanese stone lantern, the freestanding Peninsula combines subtle Japanese hospitality with the Peninsula tradition of understated luxury.
The rooms are among the largest in Tokyo, stating at 544 sq ft. Cool amenities range from bedside consoles that control the drapes to Lavazza espresso machines. The rooms even offer the ladies a personal nail dryer! For our jogging friends, the Peninsula offers a nice 5K start to your day. Beginning across the street on the Imperial Palace’s grounds, a full 5K jog runs through the grounds and back through Hibaya Park. Zen rates the hot chocolate and the Peninsula’s amazing “vitality” pool as the best in all of Japan!
Our favorite rooms: Grand Deluxe Park View & Deluxe Corner Rooms
6. TIED – Grand Hotel D’Angkor (Raffles) & Amansara – Siem Reap, Cambodia Most hoteliers would describe the Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor as a luxury 5-star hotel/resort, while Amansara (part of the Aman Resorts) fits into the other-worldly elite category. We very much like both properties, located just down the street from each other in Siem Reap.
• The staff at the Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor feel almost like family. In the five years that we have been visiting the Raffles, we have seen very little staff turnover, a glowing testament to the morale and dedication of the friendly, gregarious Khmer crew. Our daughter, Zen, is always invited for fun rides in the antique caged lift and enjoys bringing local friends to the attractive pool/spa area. Sorry, McDonald’s, Zen says the pool grill’s French fries are the very best anywhere! This early 20th Century French colonial style property is among our absolute favorites in Southeast Asia!
Our favorite rooms: Personality and Cabana Suites
• Formerly the guesthouse of Cambodia’s King Sihanouk, Amansara represents the highest elite level of luxury accommodations. The service here is singular, extremely high-touch, personal and custom. In contrast to the friendly, airy Raffles where guests have the opportunity to mingle with others, we feel almost ensconced at the Amansara. When staying at one of the luxurious pool suite rooms, everything is managed insularly with little incentive to go outside the room. Our only chance at interaction with other guests was at breakfast. In the final analysis, Amansara may be better for couples and high-profile travelers wishing privacy, while the Grand Hotel D’Angkor is better suited for families and those wishing a more group dynamic environment.
Our favorite rooms: Pool Suite Rooms
7. Amantaka – Luang Prabang, LaosAs Luang Prabang is among our favorite hidden treasures in Southeast Asia, we are obliged to include a hotel in this sleepy, Buddhist town. Set in a large garden estate in the grounds of a former French hospital, Amantaka is an easy 5-minute walk from Luang Prabang’s main street. Similar to our other favorites in Luang Prabang, the Le Residence and the Maison Souvannaphoum, heartfelt smiles come naturally to the local Laotian staff here. Being an Aman property, the Amantaka does all the little things that make your stay here truly special – cookies and tea every afternoon in the library, ice cold towels waiting for you every time you return to the hotel from the outside.
Our favorite rooms:
8. TIED - Banyan Tree – Lijiang (Yunnan, China) & Hotel of Modern Art (HOMA) – Guilin, China• Located just outside UNESCO World Heritage Site of Lijiang, the Banyan Tree – Lijiang has created the perfect harmony of the local matriarchal Naxi culture and Banyan Tree’s predictably friendly customer service.
With all 55 of its villas looking out at Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, this place has a spiritual soul-searching feel. Notwithstanding the Banyan Tree’s 6,500 ft location, the spa offers wonderful massage service from their Phuket-trained Thai staff!
Our favorite rooms: Deluxe Garden or Deluxe Pool Villa
• Hotel of Modern Art (HOMA) – Founded by a Taiwanese business entrepreneur in 1997, HOMA represents a lovely balance of world class sculpture, architecture, and art set against the backdrop of the natural beauty of the lush grounds.
Despite the somewhat limited English among the staff, the genuine kindness and warmth delivered here is truly heartwarming, with each guest room assigned a personal attendant. HOMA’s art workshop for kids is hands-on and fun! All 46 rooms here are individually designed with hip, funky decorations/artwork, along with flat-screen TVs, modern amenities, and a “wow” design aesthetic. I feel HOMA is THE place to stay if visiting Guilin.
Our favorite rooms: Libre Family Suite
9. Sofitel Metropole – Hanoi, VietnamWe feel this is the best hotel in all of Vietnam! Conceived in 1901, the Metropole combines wonderful French colonial architecture/history with Vietnam’s cultural traditions of hospitality and services. Our family always feels at home here. Bev loves the modern Vietnam art work displayed throughout the first floor from local artists. Although there are really no bad rooms at the Metropole, the Opera Suite is a major treat!
Our favorite rooms: Opera Suite or Grand Luxury Rooms
10. Shinkansen (Bullet) F Class N700 "Green" Car – Tokyo/Kyoto Yes, we know this is supposed to be our top 10 luxury hotels/ryokans...but we cannot resist including our most pleasurable rail experience ANYWHERE, the SHINKANSEN N700 F Class Green Car!
Like most things we love about Japan, the SHINKANSEN successfully integrates technology with impeccable service and wonderful aesthetics. We never tire of riding in the "Green" Cars - fastiduously clean, ultra-comfortable seating, and SPEED. These duck-billed bullet trains are most impressive with innovative "tilting" technology that allows the train to tilt one degree to maintain high speeds, even on turns. Another bonus - these trains are QUIET and SMOOTH.
ZEN'S JOURNAL: My Top 5 Fun Travel Experiences in Asia
Happy C-H-K (Christmas - Hanukah - Kwanza), everyone!
Of course my Dad has to give you our family update of our 10 top luxury hotels. Now it's my turn...these are my
top 5 FUN travel experiences in Asia.
1. Samurai sword lesson in Kyoto, Japan
My Parker classmate, Zuri, and I both agree this was the most awesome experience during our last trip to Japan. We loved the way the Japanese actors faked their dramatic deaths from our fatal lunges - it felt so real!
2. Take the toboggan down the Great Wall at Mutianyu in Beijing, China
Dad, Mom, my cousin, Sofia, and I felt this to be among the really fun activities of our last China trip! Each toboggan has a manual control throttle that controls your speed sliding down (4500 ft.) from the wall highpoint - the entire trip down takes about 5 minutes - better than any ride at Disneyworld!!
3. Maesa Elephant Camp in Chiang Mai, Thailand tied with morning water buffalo rides at the Four Seasons/Chiang Mai
If you love elephants, Maesa is the place to visit. This is a private elephant camp where you get to feed the elephants, ride the elephants, bathe the elephants, and finally paint pictures with elephants! So cool! I love staying at the Four Seasons Chiang Mai for the morning rides on their two "cute" water buffalo.
4. Spending time with my friends at COSO Orphanage in Siem Reap, Cambodia
The orphan kids are so friendly and happy with none of the many "things" we have. I love to spend time with Marie & Sophiek.
5. Private tea ceremony in KyotoI love making the matcha green tea, the sweets and learning all the steps and ceremony. The tea master, Suzuki-san, was so kind and respectful.
Happy Travels & Enjoy the Holidays!
Zen
