Very illuminating article in The New York Times by Clifford Levy, 10/18/09, regarding Russia’s wish to model their economic development from the Chinese Communist Party’s one party rule structure. -Randy
"MOSCOW — Nearly two decades after the collapse of the Communist Party, Russia’s rulers have hit upon a model for future success: the Communist Party.
Or at least, the one that reigns next door.
Like an envious underachiever, Vladimir V. Putin’s party, United Russia, is increasingly examining how it can emulate the Chinese Communist Party, especially its skill in shepherding China through the financial crisis relatively unbowed.
United Russia’s leaders even convened a special meeting this month with senior Chinese Communist Party officials to hear firsthand how they wield power.
In truth, the Russians express no desire to return to Communism as a far-reaching Marxist-Leninist ideology, whether the Soviet version or the much attenuated one in Beijing. What they admire, it seems, is the Chinese ability to use a one-party system to keep tight control over the country while still driving significant economic growth.
It is a historical turnabout that resonates, given that the Chinese Communists were inspired by the Soviets, before the two sides had a lengthy rift.
For the Russians, what matters is the countries’ divergent paths in recent decades. They are acutely aware that even as Russia has endured many dark days in its transition to a market economy, China appears to have carried out a fairly similar shift more artfully.
The Russians also seem almost ashamed that their economy is highly dependent on oil, gas and other natural resources, as if Russia were a third world nation, while China excels at manufacturing products sought by the world.
“The accomplishments of China’s Communist Party in developing its government deserve the highest marks,” Aleksandr D. Zhukov, a deputy prime minister and senior Putin aide, declared at the meeting with Chinese officials on Oct. 9 in the border city of Suifenhe, China, northwest of Vladivostok. “The practical experience they have should be intensely studied.”
Mr. Zhukov invited President Hu Jintao, general secretary of the Chinese Communist Party, to United Russia’s convention, in November in St. Petersburg.
Whatever the motivation, Russia in recent years has started moving toward the Chinese model politically and economically. After the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991, Russia plunged into capitalism haphazardly, selling off many industries and loosening regulation. Under Mr. Putin, the government has reversed course, seizing more control over many sectors.
Today, both countries govern with a potent centralized authority, overseeing economies with a mix of private and state industries, although the Russians have long seemed less disciplined in doing so.
Corruption is worse in Russia than China, according to global indexes, and foreign companies generally consider Russia’s investment climate less hospitable as well, in part because of less respect for property rights.
Russia has also been unable to match China in modernizing roads, airports, power plants and other infrastructure. And Russia is grappling with myriad health and social problems that have reduced the average life expectancy for men to 60. One consequence is a demographic crisis that is expected to drag down growth.
The world financial crisis accentuated comparisons between the economies, drawing attention to Moscow’s policies. In June, the World Bank projected that China’s economy would grow by 7.2 percent in 2009, while Russia’s would shrink by 7.9 percent.
Politically, Russia remains more open than China, with independent (though often co-opted) opposition parties and more freedom of speech. The most obvious contrast involves the Internet, which is censored in China but not in Russia.
Even so, Mr. Putin’s political aides have long studied how to move the political system to the kind that took root for many decades in countries like Japan and Mexico, with a de facto one-party government under a democratic guise, political analysts said. The Russians tend to gloss over the fact that in many of those countries, long-serving ruling parties have fallen.
“We are interested in the experience of the party and government structures in China, where cooperation exists between the ruling party and the judicial, legislative and executive authorities,” Vladimir E. Matkhanov, a deputy in Russia’s Parliament, said at the Suifenhe meeting, according to a transcript.
United Russia praises the Chinese system without mentioning its repressive aspects. And the party’s stance also appears to clash with repeated declarations by Mr. Putin, the former president and current prime minister, and President Dmitri A. Medvedev that Russia needs a robust multiparty system to thrive."
10.09.2009
Deng Xiaoping - The Real Revolutionary Hero of China
A compelling article by Ezra Vogel/Financial Times, arguing that Deng Xiaoping is the real revolutionary hero of China.
"Thursday was the 60th anniversary of the day Mao Zedong stood on the platform at Tiananmen Square and announced the formation of the People’s Republic of China. But the revolution that millions of Chinese are really celebrating began 30 years ago — under the leadership of Deng Xiaoping.
Still, most Chinese recognize that the true revolution belongs to Deng Xiaoping. No specific reforms were as important as his persistence in further opening China’s doors and encouraging its people to scour the world for new ideas in science, technology and management.
One first step was to promote talent at home. Many universities had been closed during the Cultural Revolution, which ended with Mao’s death in 1976. When he returned to power in 1977, Deng embarked on a colossal rush to hold national entrance examinations and reopen universities.
Deng also frequently invited Chinese-American scientists for talks. His key question was always: How can China catch up in science? In 1978, when Frank Press, President Jimmy Carter’s science adviser, visited China, he was taken aback when Deng proposed sending far more students and faculty to the United States than Dr. Press had the mandate to offer. Deng was so insistent on a quick answer that Dr. Press called President Carter, waking him in the middle of the night. President Carter immediately accepted Deng’s proposals.
In the 30 years since Deng started his revolution and further opened China’s doors to foreign trade and investment, hundreds of millions have risen above the poverty level, China has become the workshop of the world, urban slums have been replaced by forests of modern high-rise buildings, superhighways have succeeded dirt roads and cars have displaced donkey carts.
To be sure, the last 30 years have had plenty of problems — corruption, crackdowns on dissidents, environmental degradation, unequal educational opportunities and a failing rural health system. Chinese leaders lacking confidence in their ability to maintain public order are not likely to listen to Western advice on how to handle human rights, minorities and dissidents. China will move at its own pace, but Deng’s revolution demonstrated that it is able to take positive lessons from the West.
So on this 60th anniversary, we should join in the celebration of the Deng revolution and not be distracted by the portrait of Mao hanging in Tiananmen Square."
"Thursday was the 60th anniversary of the day Mao Zedong stood on the platform at Tiananmen Square and announced the formation of the People’s Republic of China. But the revolution that millions of Chinese are really celebrating began 30 years ago — under the leadership of Deng Xiaoping.
Still, most Chinese recognize that the true revolution belongs to Deng Xiaoping. No specific reforms were as important as his persistence in further opening China’s doors and encouraging its people to scour the world for new ideas in science, technology and management.
One first step was to promote talent at home. Many universities had been closed during the Cultural Revolution, which ended with Mao’s death in 1976. When he returned to power in 1977, Deng embarked on a colossal rush to hold national entrance examinations and reopen universities.
Deng also frequently invited Chinese-American scientists for talks. His key question was always: How can China catch up in science? In 1978, when Frank Press, President Jimmy Carter’s science adviser, visited China, he was taken aback when Deng proposed sending far more students and faculty to the United States than Dr. Press had the mandate to offer. Deng was so insistent on a quick answer that Dr. Press called President Carter, waking him in the middle of the night. President Carter immediately accepted Deng’s proposals.
In the 30 years since Deng started his revolution and further opened China’s doors to foreign trade and investment, hundreds of millions have risen above the poverty level, China has become the workshop of the world, urban slums have been replaced by forests of modern high-rise buildings, superhighways have succeeded dirt roads and cars have displaced donkey carts.
To be sure, the last 30 years have had plenty of problems — corruption, crackdowns on dissidents, environmental degradation, unequal educational opportunities and a failing rural health system. Chinese leaders lacking confidence in their ability to maintain public order are not likely to listen to Western advice on how to handle human rights, minorities and dissidents. China will move at its own pace, but Deng’s revolution demonstrated that it is able to take positive lessons from the West.
So on this 60th anniversary, we should join in the celebration of the Deng revolution and not be distracted by the portrait of Mao hanging in Tiananmen Square."
10.08.2009
Kipling & Clark Founder Randy Lynch's 15 Favorite Things (Places & Experiences) in Southeast Asia!
-Randy, Bev & Zen Lynch
1. Luang Prabang/Laos
The ancient royal city of Luang Prabang is a place where time seems to stand still. Bev, Zen and I have always felt Luang Prabang to be among out favorite hidden treasures in Southeast Asia. It's a slow, sleepy town nestled on the Mekong River and rich in Buddhist culture. This former royal capital is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a fusion of monasteries, traditional Laotian dwellings and French-colonial architecture. (We love La Residence and the boutique Maison Souvannaphoum - Amantaka opening!)
2. Maesa Elephant Camp/Chiang Mai, Thailand
This is among the unique highlights of our Southeast Asia trips. What the Four Seasons, Peninsula and Mandarin are to luxury hotel accommodations, the Maese Elephant Camp is to very personal, hands-on, elephant training. Your private elephant camp experience will include a breif training of elephant commands, riding the elephants on your own (no worries with training close by), personally bathing the elephants in the river (so much fun!) and end with a painting session with your elephants. Yes, with directions, these elephants can actually paint and draw.
3. Mekong River Cruise (Laos - Thailand)
In contrast to the 5-Star luxury resorts we normally use in Southeast Asia, our nine-year old daughter, Zennia, considers the tranquil Luang Say Cruise down the Mekong River as "roughing-it."
The 2 day/1 night journey down the Mekong River from Luang Prabang to Huai Say Laos, across the border from Thailand, is a great way to wind down and simply enjoy the Mekong River culture and scenery. You literally overnight in the middle of nowhere, on the banks of the Mekong at the Luang Say Lodge. Although certainly not luxury, the lodge has clean, comfortable villas overlooking the Mekong and a friendly, Laotian staff that earnestly care for your needs. This is a rustic Spartan environment in a good way.
4. Altruistic Opportunities/Cambodia and Laos
Our various trips to Cambodia and Laos have been instructional in terms of the tangible ways we can improve the everyday lives of underpriveleged children. COSO Orphanage in Siem Reap, New Day Cambodia in Phnom Penh, and countless primary schools in Laos and Cambodia offer numerous opportunies to give back to these beautiful, yet very needy kids. Many of our clients, particularly the younger ones, find these activities eye-opening and heartwarming, a real-world contrast to their privileged life back in the U.S.
The genuine kindness and heartfel gratefulness you see in the children's faces and beaming smiles make these experiences incomparably gratifying.
5. Angkor Wat/Cambodia
We feel the various temples of Angkor represent the most amazing and enduring architectural acheivement of any religious site in Asia. The temples, built between the 8th and 13th centuries, when the Khmer civilation was at the height of its development, are spread out over approximately 40 miles around the village of Siem Reap. We particularly love Angkor Thom, Banteay Srei, and, of course, Angkor Wat! (Added bonus 0 staying at Grand Hotel D'Angkor or Amansara!)
6. Hanoi/Vietnam
Hanoi represents all that is most compelling about Vietnam; the resourceful/entrepreneurial spirit of its people (do not miss "36 Streets"), its rich French traditions as reflected in its charming French-colonial architecture (think Sofitel Metropole) and French-incluenced Vietnamese cuisine ("Seasons" and so many other wonderful restaurants), and, of course, its symbol as Vietnam's cultural/political capital. The legacy of Ho Chi Minh is ubiquitous - his mausoleum is spell-bounding and abominable.
7. Buddhism and Its Intrinsic Service Culture
Buddhism fully embraces the concept of altruism, kindness/empathy to others, and service. Think of Buddhism as The Golden Rule (squared!). It is no coincidence that the Buddhist-based cultures of Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, Burma, Sri Lanka, and parts of India, represent the highest level of service/hospitality that you will find anywhere.
8. AMAN in Southeast Asia (the very very best!)
Well-known by many of our clients and friends, Singapore-based Aman Resorts represent the pinnable of world-class luxury hotel/resort hospitality. While Peninsula, Four Seasons, and Mandarin rule the 5-Star deluxe hotel category, Aman, alone, occupies the very elite level; small, extreme high-touch, singular, and personal. Each resort is characterized by a small number of rooms (typically less than 55) and minimalist architecture designed to complement the location's natural settings. Amansara (Siem Reap), Amanpuri (Phuket), Amankila and Amandari (Bali) among others - we love Aman in Southeast Asia!
9. Burma/Cruising on the Irrawaddy River
We feel the intoxicating Irrawaddy River epitomizes the wonderful culture of Burma - and endearing, leisurely charm and innocence that was perhpas pervasive in Southeast Asia fifty years ago. Rudyard Kipling "thought it quite unlike any land you know about." The 2-night cruise on the RV Pandaw (only 16 cabins) affords wonderful village stops only accessible via the river. The meticulous service and food on the Pandaw is another bonus!
10. Laotian Baci Ceremony
Bev, Zen and I participated in our first Baci ceremony back in 2004 and thought it was among the highlights of our Luang Prabang stay. (Zen was just 4 then!) The Baci ceremony pre-dates the arrival of Buddhism in Laos (8th century) and is considered the most respectful form of welcome from Laotian villagers. During the ceremony the selected individuals tie strings around their wrists believing the strings will protect the wearer. It is suggested the strings must not be removed for at least three days. The ceremony is highlighted by accompaniment of music and traditional dance. It's a very moving personal ceremony, and is meant to bestow the protective power of the spirits of the visitor(s).
11. The Oriental/Bangkok
Founded in 1876, the Oriental really sets the standard for subtle, understated luxury - the service here is legendary. The State Rooms, River Wing, are our favorites - decorated in traditional Thai style with dark teakwood and bright Thai silk. Another plus is their amazing spa (accessible via ferryboat directly across the Chao Phraya River from the hotel).
12. Ballooning Over Bagan (Bagan/Burma)
The sunrise hot-air balloon ride over Bagan is not to be missed, perhaps the most compelling hot-air balloon ride in all of Asia. You rise over 2,000 pagodas, stupas and monasteries built during the Bagan Dynasty 1044A.D. Bagan is to Burma what Angkor Wat is to Cambodia.
13. Four Seasons Tag Team! (Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai/Thailand)
We cannot imagine two nearby luxury resorts with better service or more beautiful settings. First, the Four Seasons Chiang Mai - landscaped gardens, water lily ponds, water buffalo (Zen loved the morning rides!), set in terraced ride paddies. No pretention here, the service is subtle, heartfelt, natural, almost wabi-sabiesque in its delivery. Although smaller (only 15 luxury "tents") in scale, the Four Seasons Tented Camp/Chiang Rai, Golden Triangle offers every bit of service as its sister property in Chiang Mai. Set in a lush hillside overlooking Burma and Laos, the tented accommodations offer every custom amenity imaginable. The focal point here is elephants - much fun!
14. Phnom Penh/Cambodia
Although small by comparison to other Asia capitals, dusty, sleepy, undeveloped Phnom Penh makes us feel that we are visiting a place from time's past. Ubiquitous French-colonial architecture, genuinely friendly, unpretentious natives, and history - this is a nice place to unwind. We particularly enjoy lunch or dinner at Foreign Correspondant's Club/FCC on the bankd of the Mekong.
15. Southeast Asia Kids!
Of course, all children are beautiful. Nevertheless, the children of Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, Thailand and Burma project so much happiness and heartfelt kindness in their eyes and smiling faces, they always hold a very special place for us.
9.16.2009
Our 15 Favorite Things about Japan
1. Cleanliness
Japan's Shintoesque identity has made the Japanese perhaps the cleanest people on earth. Regardless of where you travel in Japan, the natives are well-groomed, neat, and spotlessly clean. This extends to streets, homes, office buildings, wherever!
2. Geisha Culture
A private geisha dinner with a Geiko (geisha in Kyoto), Maiko (apprentice geiko), and Jikatu (instrument-playing geiko), is an other worldly experience. While being served a scrumptious multi-course kaiseki dinner, you are serenaded with traditional Japanese song and dance. Separately, Zen feels her geisha "makeover" is among her most "awesome" experiences in Japan.
3. Japan's Railway System
Similar to so much of Japan, its railway/shinkansen (bullet) transport system is meticulously efficient, immaculately clean, very fast, and completely reliable. If only we had shinkansen in the states! We particularly love the First Class N700 Green Cars - ergonomic seating with an unbelievably smooth ride!
4. Japan's bathroom culture
Toto's automated toilets/washlets make Japan's bathroom culture most unique, perhaps a further expression of Shinto clealiness/hygiene. These toilets are amazing - all-spraying, all deoderizing, with oscillating heated massage! Bev, Zen and I agree that the Toto washlet is a fun, hands-free, spa-like bathroom experience. This is another bonus for staying at the Peninsula!
5. Sum0 Wrestling
If you are unable to make one of the bi-monthly Sumo wrestling tournaments, a private morning Sumo wrestling practice session is the next best thing - followed by a Chanko breakfast with the wrestlers!
6. Wabi-sabi aesthetic
The Japanese worldview/state of mind emphasizing simplicity and purity - the beauty and awe of all things humble, imperfect, unpretentious.
7. Anime (and manga)
Bev, Zen and I are all big anime (Japanese animated film) fans, particularly as manifested in the Ghibli Museum, west of Tokyo in Mataka. Ghibli features the work of Academy award-winning filmmaker, Hayao Miyazaki ("spirited Away"). Ghibli is a kid's animation wonderland!
8. Onsen (natural hot springs)
Whether indoors or outdoors, Japan's ubiquitous hot springs are a national treasure, relaxing, therapeutic, cathartic. Gora Kadan in Hakone is our favorite!
9. Shinto shrines/Buddhist temples
Fushimi-inari (our favorite!) and Heian Jingu in Kyoto, and Meiji in Tokyo; Kiyomizudera ("Pure Water Temple"), Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion), Nanzenji (Zen's favorite) in Kyoto, and, of course, Todaiji in Nara.
10. High-touch (luxury) ryokans)
Amazingly, two of the most famous ryokans (Japanese inns) in Kyoto are located directly across the alleyway from each other. It's difficult to distinguish Tawaraya from Hiiragiya - they both represent the very highest levels of high-touch service. Both ryokans successfully integrate the finest Japanese traditions and wabi-sabi philosophy with contemporary conveniences that seasons travelers expect.
11. Japanese (matcha) green tea
The highest quality of all green teas, matcha (MA-cha) is a fine, powdered Japanese green tea, originally conceived by Chan Buddhists in China. Matcha is an integral part of the Japanese tea ceremony and a very special treat when visiting Japan. All hail matcha!
12. Japanese food, in all of its variety!
Sushi, tempura, robata, soba, kaiseki dinners.
13. Japanese vending machine craze
Japan is the vending machine epicenter of the world - clean, reliable and pervasive throughout the country. You can get just about anything in Japan's vending machines: food (including hot ramen), alcohol, soft dinrks, even fresh eggs, umbrellas and lingerie!
14. White-gloved taxi service
We always look forward to experiencing Japan's meticulously clean and efficient taxi service, particularly the drivers' clean, white gloves and white lace seat covers.
15. Japanese Professional Baseball
Enthusiastic, yet perfectly choreographed participation by the fans, attending a professional Japanese baseball game makes one feel American-style baseball is comparatively eneventful. Coordinated cheering and towel waving, deafening roar of the crowds, and, of course, the ubiquitous stadium "beer girls" make baseball in Japan so much fun!
Japan's Shintoesque identity has made the Japanese perhaps the cleanest people on earth. Regardless of where you travel in Japan, the natives are well-groomed, neat, and spotlessly clean. This extends to streets, homes, office buildings, wherever!
2. Geisha Culture
A private geisha dinner with a Geiko (geisha in Kyoto), Maiko (apprentice geiko), and Jikatu (instrument-playing geiko), is an other worldly experience. While being served a scrumptious multi-course kaiseki dinner, you are serenaded with traditional Japanese song and dance. Separately, Zen feels her geisha "makeover" is among her most "awesome" experiences in Japan.
3. Japan's Railway System
Similar to so much of Japan, its railway/shinkansen (bullet) transport system is meticulously efficient, immaculately clean, very fast, and completely reliable. If only we had shinkansen in the states! We particularly love the First Class N700 Green Cars - ergonomic seating with an unbelievably smooth ride!
4. Japan's bathroom culture
Toto's automated toilets/washlets make Japan's bathroom culture most unique, perhaps a further expression of Shinto clealiness/hygiene. These toilets are amazing - all-spraying, all deoderizing, with oscillating heated massage! Bev, Zen and I agree that the Toto washlet is a fun, hands-free, spa-like bathroom experience. This is another bonus for staying at the Peninsula!
5. Sum0 Wrestling
If you are unable to make one of the bi-monthly Sumo wrestling tournaments, a private morning Sumo wrestling practice session is the next best thing - followed by a Chanko breakfast with the wrestlers!
6. Wabi-sabi aesthetic
The Japanese worldview/state of mind emphasizing simplicity and purity - the beauty and awe of all things humble, imperfect, unpretentious.
7. Anime (and manga)
Bev, Zen and I are all big anime (Japanese animated film) fans, particularly as manifested in the Ghibli Museum, west of Tokyo in Mataka. Ghibli features the work of Academy award-winning filmmaker, Hayao Miyazaki ("spirited Away"). Ghibli is a kid's animation wonderland!
8. Onsen (natural hot springs)
Whether indoors or outdoors, Japan's ubiquitous hot springs are a national treasure, relaxing, therapeutic, cathartic. Gora Kadan in Hakone is our favorite!
9. Shinto shrines/Buddhist temples
Fushimi-inari (our favorite!) and Heian Jingu in Kyoto, and Meiji in Tokyo; Kiyomizudera ("Pure Water Temple"), Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion), Nanzenji (Zen's favorite) in Kyoto, and, of course, Todaiji in Nara.
10. High-touch (luxury) ryokans)
Amazingly, two of the most famous ryokans (Japanese inns) in Kyoto are located directly across the alleyway from each other. It's difficult to distinguish Tawaraya from Hiiragiya - they both represent the very highest levels of high-touch service. Both ryokans successfully integrate the finest Japanese traditions and wabi-sabi philosophy with contemporary conveniences that seasons travelers expect.
11. Japanese (matcha) green tea
The highest quality of all green teas, matcha (MA-cha) is a fine, powdered Japanese green tea, originally conceived by Chan Buddhists in China. Matcha is an integral part of the Japanese tea ceremony and a very special treat when visiting Japan. All hail matcha!
12. Japanese food, in all of its variety!
Sushi, tempura, robata, soba, kaiseki dinners.
13. Japanese vending machine craze
Japan is the vending machine epicenter of the world - clean, reliable and pervasive throughout the country. You can get just about anything in Japan's vending machines: food (including hot ramen), alcohol, soft dinrks, even fresh eggs, umbrellas and lingerie!
14. White-gloved taxi service
We always look forward to experiencing Japan's meticulously clean and efficient taxi service, particularly the drivers' clean, white gloves and white lace seat covers.
15. Japanese Professional Baseball
Enthusiastic, yet perfectly choreographed participation by the fans, attending a professional Japanese baseball game makes one feel American-style baseball is comparatively eneventful. Coordinated cheering and towel waving, deafening roar of the crowds, and, of course, the ubiquitous stadium "beer girls" make baseball in Japan so much fun!
9.15.2009
Burma Brief
Notwithstanding the bad press generated by its repressive ruling military junta, we still feel Burma to be among our favorite places in all of Asia.
100 years ago Rudyard Kipling visited Burma and “thought it quite unlike any land you know about.”
Burma has changed little since colonial times.
Burma is best described as a product of times past – an endearing, leisurely charm and innocence that was perhaps pervasive throughout S.E. Asia fifty years ago. Unlike the rest of Asia, however, Burma has remained reclusive, especially since military junta imposed its rule over the country in 1988.
Due in part to Burma’s self-imposed isolation, Western influence, particularly the grittier commercial aspects, are not to be found here. You will see few Burmese dressed in Western garb and you will see no Starbucks or McDonald's here.
Despite the widespread adoption of Buddhism, the pre-Buddhist practice of nat (spirit) worship is ubiquitous throughout much of everyday Burma. Traditional beliefs encompass a spirit world inhabited by a cast of supernatural beings, none more important than nats, mischievous little spirits that can wreak havoc if not placated with offerings of flowers, food, and
money.
Similar to other Southeast Asian countries, Burma is a land of little smiling faces. We are particularly drawn to the young Burmese women displaying their thanaka applied faces. Thanaka, a type of sandalwood paste, is used as a beauty mark as well as a sun protector for many Burmese children and young women.
100 years ago Rudyard Kipling visited Burma and “thought it quite unlike any land you know about.”
Burma has changed little since colonial times.
Burma is best described as a product of times past – an endearing, leisurely charm and innocence that was perhaps pervasive throughout S.E. Asia fifty years ago. Unlike the rest of Asia, however, Burma has remained reclusive, especially since military junta imposed its rule over the country in 1988.
Due in part to Burma’s self-imposed isolation, Western influence, particularly the grittier commercial aspects, are not to be found here. You will see few Burmese dressed in Western garb and you will see no Starbucks or McDonald's here.
Despite the widespread adoption of Buddhism, the pre-Buddhist practice of nat (spirit) worship is ubiquitous throughout much of everyday Burma. Traditional beliefs encompass a spirit world inhabited by a cast of supernatural beings, none more important than nats, mischievous little spirits that can wreak havoc if not placated with offerings of flowers, food, and
money.Similar to other Southeast Asian countries, Burma is a land of little smiling faces. We are particularly drawn to the young Burmese women displaying their thanaka applied faces. Thanaka, a type of sandalwood paste, is used as a beauty mark as well as a sun protector for many Burmese children and young women.
9.14.2009
Our 12 Favorite Things in Hong Kong (Randy, Bev, & Zen Lynch) – Fall 2009
1. Hong Kong Skyline/Victoria Harbor
Hong Kong’s expansive skyline, including so much world-class architecture (Bank of China Building being our favorite!), set in the backdrop of Victoria Harbor, makes this panorama perhaps the most wondrous in all the world. (The nightly “Symphony of Lights” is a must-see!)
2. Hong Kong’s unabashed sense of status consciousness/consumerism.
If you’re looking for a sense of spirituality or transcendental self-awareness, Hong Kong may not be the place for you. As Taiwanese essayist Lung Yingtai has noted: “In Hong Kong, economic benefit is the core value for all decision-making and development is the sole ideology.” This is a city of hyper-drive commerce where it seems material success is everyone’s ultimate goal.
3. The Star Ferry
Dating back to 1880, the plain green and white Star Ferry vessels cross Victoria Harbor throughout the day and night between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon. Perhaps the best transport value in the world – Hong Kong’s spectacular skyline/harbor views for a cost of approx. USD1 per person!
4. The very best luxury hotels in the world
The Mandarin, the Peninsula, the Four Seasons, the Intercontinental, the new Upper House, too many to name. Bev, Zen and I all feel no other city can match Hong Kong in terms of the number of high-touch 5 star deluxe luxury hotels. The service culture here is innate, almost genetic.
5. Lan Kwai Fong night-life
We always love returning to the trendy, chic Lan Kwai Fong area for great restaurants, night-clubs, and a high-energy group dynamic. Its two main streets, D’Aguilar and Lan Kwai Fong, are packed with office workers, expats, and local shakers enjoying the restaurants, bars and shops. Good for singles and families alike!
6. Hong Kong’s unique (walking) neighborhoods
Hollywood Road (antiques), Gough Street in Central (hip alternative to expat-dominated SOHO), Sheung Wan (one of Hong Kong’s oldest original settlements), Mong Kok (residential/industrial area including Bird Market and many shops catering to local Chinese), Midlevels (residential area with world’s largest series of escalators), Herbal Market (Chinese herbal drugstores and doctor consultations), Stanley Market (cheap, touristy shopping!). Many amazing neighborhoods for walking and people-watching!
7. Unique, wonderful private clubs
China Club, Halo, Azure, Volar, Club 71 – take your pick!
8. Wonderful variety of food!
Hong Kong is world capital for all foodies. World-class standards and variety of outstanding restaurants – Bo Innovation, Caprice, Halo, Goccia, Felix, Kin’s Kitchen, Indochine 1929, dim sum at traditional Luk Yu Teahouse or with a contemporary twist at Kee Club.
9. Asia-based high-end shopping
Shanghai Tang, Joyce, Douglas Young’s G.O.D. (Goods of Desire), all among Bev and Zen’s favorites!
10. Macau and Hong Kong Helicopter Getaway/Sightseeing
Quick trip to Asia’s new luxury Sin City with a spectacular view from above or stay in Hong Kong with helicopter sightseeing from the helipad atop the Peninsula.
11. A private Junk cruise along Victoria Harbor, along with a BBQ dinner. (So much fun and spectacular scenery!)
12. Hong Kong International Airport
Our favorite airport in all of Asia – meticulously clean and efficient, shopping, restaurants, transport – Hong Kong Airport has it all! It has been named world’s best airport seven out of the last eight years (from SKYTRAX).
Hong Kong’s expansive skyline, including so much world-class architecture (Bank of China Building being our favorite!), set in the backdrop of Victoria Harbor, makes this panorama perhaps the most wondrous in all the world. (The nightly “Symphony of Lights” is a must-see!)
2. Hong Kong’s unabashed sense of status consciousness/consumerism.
If you’re looking for a sense of spirituality or transcendental self-awareness, Hong Kong may not be the place for you. As Taiwanese essayist Lung Yingtai has noted: “In Hong Kong, economic benefit is the core value for all decision-making and development is the sole ideology.” This is a city of hyper-drive commerce where it seems material success is everyone’s ultimate goal.
3. The Star Ferry
Dating back to 1880, the plain green and white Star Ferry vessels cross Victoria Harbor throughout the day and night between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon. Perhaps the best transport value in the world – Hong Kong’s spectacular skyline/harbor views for a cost of approx. USD1 per person!
4. The very best luxury hotels in the world
The Mandarin, the Peninsula, the Four Seasons, the Intercontinental, the new Upper House, too many to name. Bev, Zen and I all feel no other city can match Hong Kong in terms of the number of high-touch 5 star deluxe luxury hotels. The service culture here is innate, almost genetic.
5. Lan Kwai Fong night-life
We always love returning to the trendy, chic Lan Kwai Fong area for great restaurants, night-clubs, and a high-energy group dynamic. Its two main streets, D’Aguilar and Lan Kwai Fong, are packed with office workers, expats, and local shakers enjoying the restaurants, bars and shops. Good for singles and families alike!
6. Hong Kong’s unique (walking) neighborhoods
Hollywood Road (antiques), Gough Street in Central (hip alternative to expat-dominated SOHO), Sheung Wan (one of Hong Kong’s oldest original settlements), Mong Kok (residential/industrial area including Bird Market and many shops catering to local Chinese), Midlevels (residential area with world’s largest series of escalators), Herbal Market (Chinese herbal drugstores and doctor consultations), Stanley Market (cheap, touristy shopping!). Many amazing neighborhoods for walking and people-watching!
7. Unique, wonderful private clubs
China Club, Halo, Azure, Volar, Club 71 – take your pick!
8. Wonderful variety of food!
Hong Kong is world capital for all foodies. World-class standards and variety of outstanding restaurants – Bo Innovation, Caprice, Halo, Goccia, Felix, Kin’s Kitchen, Indochine 1929, dim sum at traditional Luk Yu Teahouse or with a contemporary twist at Kee Club.
9. Asia-based high-end shopping
Shanghai Tang, Joyce, Douglas Young’s G.O.D. (Goods of Desire), all among Bev and Zen’s favorites!
10. Macau and Hong Kong Helicopter Getaway/Sightseeing
Quick trip to Asia’s new luxury Sin City with a spectacular view from above or stay in Hong Kong with helicopter sightseeing from the helipad atop the Peninsula.
11. A private Junk cruise along Victoria Harbor, along with a BBQ dinner. (So much fun and spectacular scenery!)
12. Hong Kong International Airport
Our favorite airport in all of Asia – meticulously clean and efficient, shopping, restaurants, transport – Hong Kong Airport has it all! It has been named world’s best airport seven out of the last eight years (from SKYTRAX).
9.08.2009
Failure as Viewed in the U.S. vs. Japan
In America failure is viewed in perhaps transformational terms, with examples of people overcoming calamities, physical, emotional, and financial, and coming out better for it in the end.
Japan draws a distinct contrast to the American model. Peter Goodman, reporting in the NY Times 09-06-09, writes that in Japan "failure traditionally carries a deeper stigma, an enduring shame that limits the appetite for risk in the view of many of the nation's cultural observers. This makes the Japanese form less comfortable with choices that increase the prospect for failure, even if they promise greater potential gains."
Japan draws a distinct contrast to the American model. Peter Goodman, reporting in the NY Times 09-06-09, writes that in Japan "failure traditionally carries a deeper stigma, an enduring shame that limits the appetite for risk in the view of many of the nation's cultural observers. This makes the Japanese form less comfortable with choices that increase the prospect for failure, even if they promise greater potential gains."
8.18.2009
Air China increases stake in Cathay Pacific to 30%
Cathay Pacific, among our favorite, high-touch carriers in Asia has become a bigger interest of China. Air China, mainland China's largest airline, raised its stake in Cathay Pacific Airways to 30%. Swire Pacific Ltd., the Hong Kong-based conglomerate with British roots and Cathay's biggest shareholder, raised its own to 42%.
The share purchases by Swire and Air China on Monday are the maximum stakes that the two companies could purchase without triggering a requirement under Hong Kong law to bid for the whole of Cathay, according to Christopher Pratt, chairman of Swire and Cathay. Mr. Pratt said Monday that the new shareholding wouldn't affect strategy and management at Cathay, and underscored Swire's commitment to remain the single largest shareholder in the airline.
The share purchases by Swire and Air China on Monday are the maximum stakes that the two companies could purchase without triggering a requirement under Hong Kong law to bid for the whole of Cathay, according to Christopher Pratt, chairman of Swire and Cathay. Mr. Pratt said Monday that the new shareholding wouldn't affect strategy and management at Cathay, and underscored Swire's commitment to remain the single largest shareholder in the airline.
8.04.2009
Japan's Bathroom Culture (TOTO S400!)
TOTO's advanced S400 "Intuitive" washlet takes Japan's unique Shintoesque bathroom culture to a whole new level, with an automatic hands-free flushing system and sensor-activated lid that automatically lifts as you approach the toilet. At your command, using the remote control LCD panel, you may control the aerated warm water, with front and rear washing, and, of course, warm air drying with a variable temperature setting. Bev, Zen, and I all agree that the TOTO washlet is a fun, hands-free, spa-like bathroom experience. This is another bonus for those staying at the Peninsula Tokyo!
7.14.2009
How to Visit a Shinto Shrine
Purify yourself by washing your hands and mouth at a water place. It is called a “Chosuya,” and almost all shrines have it.
Dip up water and pour over the left hand and then over the right one.
Rinse out your mouth and be sure that your does not directly touch the dipper.
Wash the dipper.
How to make a wish to gods at Shinto Shrine
Throw a coin into the offertory box.
Bow twice.
Clap your hands twice and make a wish during the series of this last motion.
Bow again.
www.howcast.com
Dip up water and pour over the left hand and then over the right one.
Rinse out your mouth and be sure that your does not directly touch the dipper.
Wash the dipper.
How to make a wish to gods at Shinto Shrine
Throw a coin into the offertory box.
Bow twice.
Clap your hands twice and make a wish during the series of this last motion.
Bow again.
www.howcast.com
Smile-checking in Japan!
Just read an amazing update from The Economist . Keihin Electric Express Railway in Japan is requiring its staff to check their smiles every morning using a computer software called Smile Scan (modeling OMRON Corp). Workers have their grins scored from 1-100 and are given advice on how to improve them. Later in the day they are able to get a print-out of their best smile, which they can use for future improvement. Let's get this in the U.S.! -Randy
7.02.2009
COSO Orphanage
Notwithstanding our severe economic downturn. most of us are still blessed beyond compare to those orphaned overseas. To get a fresh perspective pleaes note the donation plea from Sean Samnang, Director of COSO Orphanage in Siem Reap, Cambodia - no wasted funds here!
"Nowadays, we are very lacking the budgets for support the children, and request to help from all. Please you all to make small donation to help us by possible who can.
With lists has to spend! We provide have three meals a day, for monthly need to spent $ 1,950 USD for food , $ 126.50 US for Ingredient of cook, $ 90.00 US for wood charcoal, $ 80.00 US for sweets, $ 21. 75 US for toothbrush, $ 50.75 US for fluoride, $ 38.70 US for soap, $ 20.00 US for washing dishes, $10.00 US for toilet washing, $ 37.50 for washing clothes, $ 150.00 USD for rented land, $ 253.50 USD on fee school, $ 100.00 USD for medical supplies, $ 323.20 USD for gasoline and $ 139.00 USD on services of Internet every month. In total, $ 113.03 USD is spent a day, $ 791.21 USD is spent per week and $ 3,390.90 USD is spent for a month.
$113/day, $791/week, $3390/month"
To make a donation to the COSO Orphanage, visit www.cosocambodia.org
On their website, we can see a picture of the "motor-drag tuk-tuk" vehicle that our donation allowed them to purchase! (www.cosocambodia.org/donation) Something so small can make such a big difference in the lives of the children.
"Nowadays, we are very lacking the budgets for support the children, and request to help from all. Please you all to make small donation to help us by possible who can.
With lists has to spend! We provide have three meals a day, for monthly need to spent $ 1,950 USD for food , $ 126.50 US for Ingredient of cook, $ 90.00 US for wood charcoal, $ 80.00 US for sweets, $ 21. 75 US for toothbrush, $ 50.75 US for fluoride, $ 38.70 US for soap, $ 20.00 US for washing dishes, $10.00 US for toilet washing, $ 37.50 for washing clothes, $ 150.00 USD for rented land, $ 253.50 USD on fee school, $ 100.00 USD for medical supplies, $ 323.20 USD for gasoline and $ 139.00 USD on services of Internet every month. In total, $ 113.03 USD is spent a day, $ 791.21 USD is spent per week and $ 3,390.90 USD is spent for a month.
$113/day, $791/week, $3390/month"
To make a donation to the COSO Orphanage, visit www.cosocambodia.org
On their website, we can see a picture of the "motor-drag tuk-tuk" vehicle that our donation allowed them to purchase! (www.cosocambodia.org/donation) Something so small can make such a big difference in the lives of the children.
6.09.2009
Yokiro Takita’s “Okuribito” (Departures) film a compelling glimpse into Japan’s culture and view of death.
Bev and I feel the recently released Japanese film “Departures” is a wonderful window into Japan’s Shinto/Buddhist-centered culture, especially in terms of the Japanese view of death. The film evolves around the experiences of an apprentice nokanshi (“encoffining master”), a professional who cleans and clothes a body before cremation or burial. The film vividly shows the nokanshi carefully and very respectfully dressing up the deceased, in full view of the survivors/relatives, with compassion and a meticulous, artful professional touch.
A nokanshi is not really a mortician or an undertaker, but perhaps a gatekeeper/facilitator from the world of the living to the next spiritual realm. After watching this thoroughly engrossing film, one can argue that the Japanese outlook on death makes a lot of sense. Seeing deceased family members made up like wax mannequins at funeral wakes, I feel the more natural and beautiful aesthetic created by the nokanshi makes for a wonderful final journey from this world.
- Randy & Bev Lynch
A nokanshi is not really a mortician or an undertaker, but perhaps a gatekeeper/facilitator from the world of the living to the next spiritual realm. After watching this thoroughly engrossing film, one can argue that the Japanese outlook on death makes a lot of sense. Seeing deceased family members made up like wax mannequins at funeral wakes, I feel the more natural and beautiful aesthetic created by the nokanshi makes for a wonderful final journey from this world.
- Randy & Bev Lynch
5.27.2009
Restoring peace to heart of Shanghai
Illuminating article in Financial Times, 05/26/09, regarding the newly renovated Peace Hotel in Shanghai. - Randy Lynch
For years,Shanghai Shanghai , is rebuilding the art deco Peace Hotel, its famous landmark and a symbol of all that was playful and decadent in old Shanghai Shanghai
For years,
In typically Chinese defiance of both the global economic crisis and a glut of
Balancing the needs of profit and preservation makes this one of the most challenging, and closely watched, historical restoration efforts in
The hotel’s pedigree is impeccable: brainchild and plaything of Victor Sassoon, the British-Iraqi trader of opium, guns and
From its Lalique glass shaving mirrors to its opulent “Nine Nations Suites” – from Indian, Georgian and Chinese to German, French and Italian – the hotel helped make
But by 2007 – though foreign tourists still made the nostalgic journey to the fusty old landmark where rooms cost about $100 a night – the hotel was overcome by damp and decay. Its signature Old Jazz Band was still playing pre-war favourites, with some of the original octogenarian musicians. But Jia Xue Tai, saxophonist for the band – which now plays at another
But reinstating the Old Jazz Band will be easy compared with the task of restoring the hotel’s interior. Ian Carr of Hirsch Bedner Associates, designers of the restoration, says everything from furnishings to faucets has disappeared and the hotel has had several botched renovations.
“There is no way of telling what was original,” he says. The restorers advertised for information but even getting the original blueprints was hard. Luckily, ceilings were out of reach “they couldn’t knock them down or take them out ... so they just covered them up,” he says, noting that the hotel’s octagonal glass rotunda, covered by gypsum board for decades, will be a centrepiece of the restoration.
Balancing the demands of the hotel’s Chinese state-controlled owners, Jin Jiang International Hotels, and the foreign-owned operators, Fairmont Hotels, has also been tricky.
But Yang Weimin, CEO of Jin Jiang International Hotels, says the company must abide by historical preservation laws. A new building will be built at the back of the hotel to house a swimming pool, spa and large lifts.
But Lu Jiansong, of
“The Peace Hotel belongs to the state, not to
5.18.2009
Today, I Have Lived
I was reminded by our daughter, Zen, of our singular amazing day in Kyoto this past April, including our private geisha dinner that we shared with our dear friends, the Xu Family. This wonderful day was driven home to me by an article I read from Harry Eyres of the Financial Times. His reference to a lovely poem by the Roman poet/philosopher Horace is a succinct description of a single perfect day:
"All power and joy to that man who can say, 'today, in this day, I have lived'; tomorrow may bring rain or sun, but nothing can undo, or render worthless, what the fleeting, unrepeatable hour has brought."
- Randy Lynch
"All power and joy to that man who can say, 'today, in this day, I have lived'; tomorrow may bring rain or sun, but nothing can undo, or render worthless, what the fleeting, unrepeatable hour has brought."
- Randy Lynch
5.01.2009
ANA Service
Bev, Zen, Sofia and I were most impressed with ANA's Chicago-Tokyo 777 in-flight service. Similar to the Shinto/Buddhist-centered culture ANA represents, the service among the all Japanese crew was kind, respective, and completelely attentive. Noteworthy observations in Premium Economy:
- We loved the curry chicken entree and the tasty & healthy "soy" snack bars!
- Zen and Sofia took special note of the Haagen Dazs ice cream treats at the end of dinner
- Great audio/video selection with over 20 movies to choose from
4.29.2009
We love Japan in the springtime!
The Lynch Family (Randy, Bev, Zen, and Cousin Sofia) has just returned from our annual spring break trip to Japan. This has to rate as our best Japan trip ever! Ghibli, origami, maiko dress-up, sakura (cherry blossoms), private Geisha dinner, the best ryokans in all of Japan, and, of course, traveling with our dear friends, the Xu Family – Jay Xu, the Director of the Asia Art Museum and his lovely wife Jennifer and engaging daughter, Toni. Japan’s unique Shinto-Buddhist-centered culture and other-worldly wabi-sabi aesthetic truly separates this land from any other in the world. By the way, Japan may be the cleanest country on the planet!
HIGHLIGHTS OF OUR TOKYO, HAKONE/KYOTO-NARA CUSTOM TOUR
TOKYO
- The Peninsula Tokyo feels like our Japan home away from home – the staff is so friendly and warm-hearted. Although Bev and I appreciate the sleek design and amenities of our room overlooking the Imperial Palace grounds, Zen and Sofia are convinced the Peninsula’s hot chocolate is the best in Asia!
- Hibiya Park, directly across the street from the Peninsula, is the perfect respite from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo. Our mornings started with a walk through the park’s lush gardens for beautiful cherry blossom views.
- Ghibli Museum (west of Tokyo in Mitaka) is perhaps the most interesting fine-arts museum in all of Japan, featuring the Japanese anime (Japanese animated film) work of Academy award-winning filmmaker, Hayao Miyazaki (“Spirited Away”). This was a euphoric experience for Zen, Sofia and Toni – Ghibli is a kid’s animation wonderland!
- Origami – All of us enjoyed the private one hour origami lesson we arranged at Origami Kaikan. We created fish, our elaborate Christmas tree, talking “lips”, and even a dragon. Although assimilated and refined in Japan, origami was actually introduced to Japan via 6th century Chinese Buddhist monks. The shop at Origami Kada is a treasury of origami related papers and gifts.
HAKONE/GORA KADAN RYOKAN
A short 45-minute bullet train ride from Tokyo, Hakone is a world apart from the big city in terms of the lush, green mountainous environment and its rejuvenating onsen (hot mineral springs).
Our sole purpose in traveling to Hakone was to make a brief relaxation stopover at the amazing Gora Kadan Ryokan – we loved this place! Proprietress Mikawako, the third generation of Fujimotos to run Gora Kadan, has blended traditional Japanese ryokan hospitality with modern Western design in creating a luxurious ryokan spa experience. The Gora Kadan’s original building dates back to 300 years and was the summer home of the Kan’in-No-Miya imperial family.
Gora Kadan was Zen and Sofia’s introduction to a “public” onsen at the ryokan’s main natural hot springs bath area. Following a brief “public” soaking, they retreated to our room with its own private granite open mineral springs bath, fed by the Gora Kadan’s natural springs. With its airy east-west fusion aesthetic, its wonderful (Kaiseki) food service, and total relaxation spa, Gora Kadan is definitely on our A-list for high-touch ryokans in Japan.
THE NEW JR GREEN CAR (N700) BULLET TRAIN
We were most impressed with the new First Class (Green Car) N700 series Shinkansen “bullet” train to Kyoto-Osaka. With its large and improved ergonomic designed seats, LED reading lights and futuristic design, this next-generation rail service is an amazing experience. Its advanced “tilting” capabilities allow the N700 to cruise smoothly up to 186 mph. Think of our advanced jet aircraft on rails! Still, Zen is more impressed with the tasty “Ekiben” station lunchboxes.
KYOTO (THE ONE AND ONLY!)
We feel Kyoto represents the cultural and aesthetic essence of Japan; amazing Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples, the highest quality ryokans, geisha culture, wonderful food, and in April, sakura (cherry blossoms)! And Kyoto at night, particularly in the lantern-lit streets of Gion, is magical and wondrous. There is literally no place on earth like Kyoto.
HANAMI (CHERRY BLOSSOM VIEWING)
From our 2-night base at the Hyatt Regency Kyoto (think Frank Lloyd Wright aesthetic with Japanese refinement) we ventured out our first night for some celebratory “hanami” (cherry blossoms viewing) in Maruyama Park. With all of the remarkable food/game stalls and, of course, the famous weeping cherry tree, this was a fun and amusing night for Zen and Sofia.
TODAI-JI TEMPLE, NARA DEER PARK, AND FUSHIMI-INARI
Today we were re-united with the Xu Family (Jay, Jennifer, and Toni) for two days of exploration, fellowship, and good times! For the next two days we were trusted with our favorite Kyoto guide, Izumi-san. She is simply the best!
Our travels today took us out to Nara and the most impressive Todai-ji Temple (Japan’s largest Buddhist temple within the world’s largest wooden building) and to adjacent Nara Deer Park. Although we were again over-run with the deer feeding, Zen, Sofia and Toni enjoyed every moment! En-route back to Kyoto we stopped at our favorite Shinto shrine, Fushimi-Inari (think of Memoirs of a Geisha!). Dating back to the 8th century. Following a hike up Fushimi’s pathway, Zen, Sofia and Toni wrote their prayers on the wooden blocks at the shrine’s entrance.
MAIKO DRESS UP!
Today was “Geisha” day for the girls! In Kyoto, they do not use the word Geisha, but “Geiko” instead. A younger, apprentice Geiko is called a “Maiko”. A quick way to tell the difference between a Geiko and a Maiko is that the older Geiko always wears a white neck collar.
Today was very exciting because Zen, Sofia and Toni were all made up as Maiko - yes, real Maiko with all the make-up, the wig hair, and beautiful kimonos. Hannah Montana eat your heart out! It took over an hour to prepare their make-up, hair, and kimonos. They were later able to walk down the street like real Maiko in the Gion district. It was unreal!
PRIVATE GEISHA DINNER/ENTERTAINMENT
This was one of the truly special and unique high-lights of our Japan private tour. While being served a delicious multi-course kaiseki dinner at Mitoko in the Gion district, we were graciously hosted by two Geiko and one Maiko. The older Geiko, Yumi-san, played a shamisen, an old Japanese musical instrument that looks like a banjo with a long neck. The younger Geiko, Hisano-san, and the Meiko, Mitsuna-san, performed traditional dancing for us. The dancing was so gentle and beautiful. After our long Kaiseki dinner, Hisano-san and Mitsuna-san taught us some traditional Japanese parlor games to play. Zen will try to teach these to her classmates at Francis Parker School! The most fun game was konpira fune-fune (“slapping box” game). Although too complex to explain, this was great fun!
HIIRAGIYA RYOKAN
We stayed at Tawaraya Ryokan last year, directly across the alleyway from our chosen ryokan this year, Hiiragiya. Improbably, two of the most famous luxury ryokans in all of Japan stand directly across from each other! A stay at either Hiiragiya or Tawaraya represents a complete 24-hour high-touch immersion with traditional Japanese culture.
Enclosed in a traditional sukiya style wooden structure, Hiiragiya was conceived in 1818 when Hiiragiya, a seafood dealer, began providing accommodation to traveling merchants. Later, Hiiragiya welcomed many members of the imperial family including writers/governing officials/international celebrities.
Our two families shared a lovely kaiseki dinner together, served on traditional kiyomizu pottery, with each course exquisitely prepared with an understated aesthetic.
We give an A+ to both the Tawaraya and Hiiragiya, although we feel Hiiragiya is perhaps more accommodating and open to Western eccentricities.
CONCLUSION
Although only eight days, this particular Japan trip turned out to be one of our most rewarding trips ever! Extraordinary fun with dear friends, Jay, Jennifer and Toni, geiko/maiko experience, the girls’ makeover, Shinto/Buddhist culture, sushi and kaiseki, origami, world-class transportation, and among the very best ryokan/hotels in all of Japan.
In the final analysis I feel Japan is an extraordinary family/friends travel destination. Notwithstanding my love for China, Southeast Asia, and India, I admit to a special longing for Japan. On top of its other-worldly culture and scrupulously clean, world-class infrastructure, Japan is easy to prepare for. No visas or shots required – just a valid U.S. passport and some precious time to spend with your family and friends.
In terms of weather conditions, we recommend travel to Japan in April-June or September-October.
We look forward to serving you!
Randy Lynch
CEO
Kipling & Clark
HIGHLIGHTS OF OUR TOKYO, HAKONE/KYOTO-NARA CUSTOM TOUR
TOKYO
- The Peninsula Tokyo feels like our Japan home away from home – the staff is so friendly and warm-hearted. Although Bev and I appreciate the sleek design and amenities of our room overlooking the Imperial Palace grounds, Zen and Sofia are convinced the Peninsula’s hot chocolate is the best in Asia!
- Hibiya Park, directly across the street from the Peninsula, is the perfect respite from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo. Our mornings started with a walk through the park’s lush gardens for beautiful cherry blossom views.
- Ghibli Museum (west of Tokyo in Mitaka) is perhaps the most interesting fine-arts museum in all of Japan, featuring the Japanese anime (Japanese animated film) work of Academy award-winning filmmaker, Hayao Miyazaki (“Spirited Away”). This was a euphoric experience for Zen, Sofia and Toni – Ghibli is a kid’s animation wonderland!
- Origami – All of us enjoyed the private one hour origami lesson we arranged at Origami Kaikan. We created fish, our elaborate Christmas tree, talking “lips”, and even a dragon. Although assimilated and refined in Japan, origami was actually introduced to Japan via 6th century Chinese Buddhist monks. The shop at Origami Kada is a treasury of origami related papers and gifts.
HAKONE/GORA KADAN RYOKAN
A short 45-minute bullet train ride from Tokyo, Hakone is a world apart from the big city in terms of the lush, green mountainous environment and its rejuvenating onsen (hot mineral springs).
Our sole purpose in traveling to Hakone was to make a brief relaxation stopover at the amazing Gora Kadan Ryokan – we loved this place! Proprietress Mikawako, the third generation of Fujimotos to run Gora Kadan, has blended traditional Japanese ryokan hospitality with modern Western design in creating a luxurious ryokan spa experience. The Gora Kadan’s original building dates back to 300 years and was the summer home of the Kan’in-No-Miya imperial family.
Gora Kadan was Zen and Sofia’s introduction to a “public” onsen at the ryokan’s main natural hot springs bath area. Following a brief “public” soaking, they retreated to our room with its own private granite open mineral springs bath, fed by the Gora Kadan’s natural springs. With its airy east-west fusion aesthetic, its wonderful (Kaiseki) food service, and total relaxation spa, Gora Kadan is definitely on our A-list for high-touch ryokans in Japan.
THE NEW JR GREEN CAR (N700) BULLET TRAIN
We were most impressed with the new First Class (Green Car) N700 series Shinkansen “bullet” train to Kyoto-Osaka. With its large and improved ergonomic designed seats, LED reading lights and futuristic design, this next-generation rail service is an amazing experience. Its advanced “tilting” capabilities allow the N700 to cruise smoothly up to 186 mph. Think of our advanced jet aircraft on rails! Still, Zen is more impressed with the tasty “Ekiben” station lunchboxes.
KYOTO (THE ONE AND ONLY!)
We feel Kyoto represents the cultural and aesthetic essence of Japan; amazing Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples, the highest quality ryokans, geisha culture, wonderful food, and in April, sakura (cherry blossoms)! And Kyoto at night, particularly in the lantern-lit streets of Gion, is magical and wondrous. There is literally no place on earth like Kyoto.
HANAMI (CHERRY BLOSSOM VIEWING)
From our 2-night base at the Hyatt Regency Kyoto (think Frank Lloyd Wright aesthetic with Japanese refinement) we ventured out our first night for some celebratory “hanami” (cherry blossoms viewing) in Maruyama Park. With all of the remarkable food/game stalls and, of course, the famous weeping cherry tree, this was a fun and amusing night for Zen and Sofia.
TODAI-JI TEMPLE, NARA DEER PARK, AND FUSHIMI-INARI
Today we were re-united with the Xu Family (Jay, Jennifer, and Toni) for two days of exploration, fellowship, and good times! For the next two days we were trusted with our favorite Kyoto guide, Izumi-san. She is simply the best!
Our travels today took us out to Nara and the most impressive Todai-ji Temple (Japan’s largest Buddhist temple within the world’s largest wooden building) and to adjacent Nara Deer Park. Although we were again over-run with the deer feeding, Zen, Sofia and Toni enjoyed every moment! En-route back to Kyoto we stopped at our favorite Shinto shrine, Fushimi-Inari (think of Memoirs of a Geisha!). Dating back to the 8th century. Following a hike up Fushimi’s pathway, Zen, Sofia and Toni wrote their prayers on the wooden blocks at the shrine’s entrance.
MAIKO DRESS UP!
Today was “Geisha” day for the girls! In Kyoto, they do not use the word Geisha, but “Geiko” instead. A younger, apprentice Geiko is called a “Maiko”. A quick way to tell the difference between a Geiko and a Maiko is that the older Geiko always wears a white neck collar.
Today was very exciting because Zen, Sofia and Toni were all made up as Maiko - yes, real Maiko with all the make-up, the wig hair, and beautiful kimonos. Hannah Montana eat your heart out! It took over an hour to prepare their make-up, hair, and kimonos. They were later able to walk down the street like real Maiko in the Gion district. It was unreal!
PRIVATE GEISHA DINNER/ENTERTAINMENT
This was one of the truly special and unique high-lights of our Japan private tour. While being served a delicious multi-course kaiseki dinner at Mitoko in the Gion district, we were graciously hosted by two Geiko and one Maiko. The older Geiko, Yumi-san, played a shamisen, an old Japanese musical instrument that looks like a banjo with a long neck. The younger Geiko, Hisano-san, and the Meiko, Mitsuna-san, performed traditional dancing for us. The dancing was so gentle and beautiful. After our long Kaiseki dinner, Hisano-san and Mitsuna-san taught us some traditional Japanese parlor games to play. Zen will try to teach these to her classmates at Francis Parker School! The most fun game was konpira fune-fune (“slapping box” game). Although too complex to explain, this was great fun!
HIIRAGIYA RYOKAN
We stayed at Tawaraya Ryokan last year, directly across the alleyway from our chosen ryokan this year, Hiiragiya. Improbably, two of the most famous luxury ryokans in all of Japan stand directly across from each other! A stay at either Hiiragiya or Tawaraya represents a complete 24-hour high-touch immersion with traditional Japanese culture.
Enclosed in a traditional sukiya style wooden structure, Hiiragiya was conceived in 1818 when Hiiragiya, a seafood dealer, began providing accommodation to traveling merchants. Later, Hiiragiya welcomed many members of the imperial family including writers/governing officials/international celebrities.
Our two families shared a lovely kaiseki dinner together, served on traditional kiyomizu pottery, with each course exquisitely prepared with an understated aesthetic.
We give an A+ to both the Tawaraya and Hiiragiya, although we feel Hiiragiya is perhaps more accommodating and open to Western eccentricities.
CONCLUSION
Although only eight days, this particular Japan trip turned out to be one of our most rewarding trips ever! Extraordinary fun with dear friends, Jay, Jennifer and Toni, geiko/maiko experience, the girls’ makeover, Shinto/Buddhist culture, sushi and kaiseki, origami, world-class transportation, and among the very best ryokan/hotels in all of Japan.
In the final analysis I feel Japan is an extraordinary family/friends travel destination. Notwithstanding my love for China, Southeast Asia, and India, I admit to a special longing for Japan. On top of its other-worldly culture and scrupulously clean, world-class infrastructure, Japan is easy to prepare for. No visas or shots required – just a valid U.S. passport and some precious time to spend with your family and friends.
In terms of weather conditions, we recommend travel to Japan in April-June or September-October.
We look forward to serving you!
Randy Lynch
CEO
Kipling & Clark
4.24.2009
Our Kaiseki Dinner Menu from Hiiragiya - April 11, 2009
Menu of Hiiragiya Kaiseki
April, 2009
April, 2009
Aperitif (Shokuzen-Shu) Original white peach cocktail
The first appetizer (Sakizuke)
Yuba (skin of soybean milk), Sea urchin, Yam, Wasabi
Pea-Tofu, Lily bulb, Broad bean
Boiled abalone, Taro stem, Bofu parsley, Liver of abalone sauce
Simmered Dishes (Nimono-Wan)
Clear soup with wrap Greenling in Kudzu starch, Paste of white fish and
mugwort, Hosta, carrot, Yuzu citrus
Sashimi Dishes (Mukouzuke)
Sea bream, Tuna, Japanese spiny lobster, Bracken, Carrot, Red water pepper,
Wasabi leaf, Japanese white radish, Wasabi
The second appetizer (Hassun)
Ark shell seasoned with vinegar and miso, Prawn, Burdock root wrapped in
conger eel, UDO-edible, Sea bream bound together with egg, Royal fern,
Boiled firefly squid, Canola blossom bods
Grilled Dishes (Yukizakana) - Please choose between one of these two -
- Grilled trout pickled in sake lees, Asparagus, Bamboo shoot, Butter bur leaf
- Grilled beef, Asparagus, Onion, Red bell pepper, PON-ZU (sauce containing
soy sauce and citrus juice), Yuzu citrus and green pepper with a mixture of
salt, Mix up tomato and Miso
Simmered Dishes (Takiawase)
Bamboo shoot, Rockfish, Wakame seaweed, Japanese butterbur, KINOME
Deep-fried Dishes (Age-Mono)
Baby sweetfish, Koshiabura-edible, wild plants, MANGANZI-sweet green
pepper, Shiitake mushroom, Sauce for dipping tempura, Salt
Soup (Tome-Wan)
Clear soup with FU (wheat gluten), Mibuna cress
Rice (Gohan)
Steamed sushi of edible wild plant -Gyozyaniniku-long freen onion, Horsetail,
Mountain fern sprouts-, Shredded omelet, Pea
Pickles (Kou-No-Mono)
KYOUSAKURA (cucumber and eggplant pickled with cherry blossom and
leaves)< style="font-weight: bold;">Dessert (Mizu-Mono) Melon, Strawberry, Mint
The first appetizer (Sakizuke)
Yuba (skin of soybean milk), Sea urchin, Yam, Wasabi
Pea-Tofu, Lily bulb, Broad bean
Boiled abalone, Taro stem, Bofu parsley, Liver of abalone sauce
Simmered Dishes (Nimono-Wan)
Clear soup with wrap Greenling in Kudzu starch, Paste of white fish and
mugwort, Hosta, carrot, Yuzu citrus
Sashimi Dishes (Mukouzuke)
Sea bream, Tuna, Japanese spiny lobster, Bracken, Carrot, Red water pepper,
Wasabi leaf, Japanese white radish, Wasabi
The second appetizer (Hassun)
Ark shell seasoned with vinegar and miso, Prawn, Burdock root wrapped in
conger eel, UDO-edible, Sea bream bound together with egg, Royal fern,
Boiled firefly squid, Canola blossom bods
Grilled Dishes (Yukizakana) - Please choose between one of these two -
- Grilled trout pickled in sake lees, Asparagus, Bamboo shoot, Butter bur leaf
- Grilled beef, Asparagus, Onion, Red bell pepper, PON-ZU (sauce containing
soy sauce and citrus juice), Yuzu citrus and green pepper with a mixture of
salt, Mix up tomato and Miso
Simmered Dishes (Takiawase)
Bamboo shoot, Rockfish, Wakame seaweed, Japanese butterbur, KINOME
Deep-fried Dishes (Age-Mono)
Baby sweetfish, Koshiabura-edible, wild plants, MANGANZI-sweet green
pepper, Shiitake mushroom, Sauce for dipping tempura, Salt
Soup (Tome-Wan)
Clear soup with FU (wheat gluten), Mibuna cress
Rice (Gohan)
Steamed sushi of edible wild plant -Gyozyaniniku-long freen onion, Horsetail,
Mountain fern sprouts-, Shredded omelet, Pea
Pickles (Kou-No-Mono)
KYOUSAKURA (cucumber and eggplant pickled with cherry blossom and
leaves)< style="font-weight: bold;">Dessert (Mizu-Mono) Melon, Strawberry, Mint
4.01.2009
That “Wabi-sabi” (Japan) Feeling
Within the context of our private, custom travel experiences, we have been blessed with opportunities to explore the many prisms and facets of Japan’s truly singular culture.
A big part of Japan’s uniqueness is its wabi-sabi aesthetic. Wabi-sabi is a Japanese worldview/state-of-mind emphasizing simplicity and purity – the beauty and awe of all things humble, unpretentious and imperfect. In a recent university commencement speech, singer/songwriter John legend defines the meaning of "soul" - he defines "soul" as authenticity, about finding things in your life that are real and pure. Perhaps unknowingly, John Legend is referring to wabi-sabi. My conception of wabi-sabi is a beautiful sunset, the still morning frost, a graceful and simple Japanese tea ceremony. It’s a sort of subtle, unspoken beauty, like Katherine Hepburn vs. Marilyn Monroe (our friend at United Airlines, Suzanne Wahl, feels a more contemporary comparison is Kate Winslet vs. Angelina Jolie). Wabi-sabi, in essence, is savoring all of one’s daily simple pleasures. Wabi-sabi parallels the basic concept of Zen Buddhism in that intuitive insight is considered a more critical force than intellectual deliberation. This Japanese lifeview perhaps contributes to the country’s deep sense of egalitarianism, with one seeing few outward signs of wealth in this wonderful land.
Randy Lynch
A big part of Japan’s uniqueness is its wabi-sabi aesthetic. Wabi-sabi is a Japanese worldview/state-of-mind emphasizing simplicity and purity – the beauty and awe of all things humble, unpretentious and imperfect. In a recent university commencement speech, singer/songwriter John legend defines the meaning of "soul" - he defines "soul" as authenticity, about finding things in your life that are real and pure. Perhaps unknowingly, John Legend is referring to wabi-sabi. My conception of wabi-sabi is a beautiful sunset, the still morning frost, a graceful and simple Japanese tea ceremony. It’s a sort of subtle, unspoken beauty, like Katherine Hepburn vs. Marilyn Monroe (our friend at United Airlines, Suzanne Wahl, feels a more contemporary comparison is Kate Winslet vs. Angelina Jolie). Wabi-sabi, in essence, is savoring all of one’s daily simple pleasures. Wabi-sabi parallels the basic concept of Zen Buddhism in that intuitive insight is considered a more critical force than intellectual deliberation. This Japanese lifeview perhaps contributes to the country’s deep sense of egalitarianism, with one seeing few outward signs of wealth in this wonderful land.
Randy Lynch
3.30.2009
Zen’s Excellent Adventure & It’s Time to Help
Hello everyone, it’s Zen!
A lot of classmates and friends have asked me about our fun family trips to Japan, China, and so many parts of Southeast Asia. The trips are awesome!! I know my dad sends our trip pictures out on the Kipling & Clark Newsletters, but let me tell you the pictures cannot tell you how much fun we really have – Google times 100!! I say every kid should hang out with elephants for a day in Thailand, spend time with your own panda in China, or have your own private dinner with Geishas and dress up in Japan – sorry Hannah Montana, Asia travel’s got you beat!!
Our trip to Cambodia this last February was also fun, but in a different way. My family and I saved some money to take to the COSO Orphanage and Wat Po Krom Grade School. My dad even arranged for two of the kids at the orphanage (Mary and Sophaek) to travel with us in Siem Reap. The day we visited the orphanage reminded me how lucky I am. My mom and dad love me, I go to a great school, and I never worry about what to eat or what nice clothes to wear. All the kids at COSO seemed happy and friendly when they performed their beautiful Khmer dance for us. I felt bad, though, when I saw how they all slept together in a large room on small, thin mattresses. It was sad for me. When I gave our family’s donation to Mr. Samnang at the orphanage, I think that made me feel a little bit better.
Mr. Samnang later sent us an e-mail to say he bought a new motor for their tuk-tuk with our donation. I remember I saw the tuk-tuk at the orphanage – it looked in bad shape. With the new motor, the orphanage can now take the kids to the local schools every day. My sadness has turned to happiness for my new friends at COSO!
I urged my dad to make visits and donations to Asia orphanages and grade schools a regular part of our Kipling & Clark private tours. He agrees it’s a good idea! All of us can really help make a BIG difference when traveling to Asia and make a lot of kids a little happier.
Well, back to my homework!
Yours truly,
Zen Lynch/World Traveler, age 8
A lot of classmates and friends have asked me about our fun family trips to Japan, China, and so many parts of Southeast Asia. The trips are awesome!! I know my dad sends our trip pictures out on the Kipling & Clark Newsletters, but let me tell you the pictures cannot tell you how much fun we really have – Google times 100!! I say every kid should hang out with elephants for a day in Thailand, spend time with your own panda in China, or have your own private dinner with Geishas and dress up in Japan – sorry Hannah Montana, Asia travel’s got you beat!!
Our trip to Cambodia this last February was also fun, but in a different way. My family and I saved some money to take to the COSO Orphanage and Wat Po Krom Grade School. My dad even arranged for two of the kids at the orphanage (Mary and Sophaek) to travel with us in Siem Reap. The day we visited the orphanage reminded me how lucky I am. My mom and dad love me, I go to a great school, and I never worry about what to eat or what nice clothes to wear. All the kids at COSO seemed happy and friendly when they performed their beautiful Khmer dance for us. I felt bad, though, when I saw how they all slept together in a large room on small, thin mattresses. It was sad for me. When I gave our family’s donation to Mr. Samnang at the orphanage, I think that made me feel a little bit better.
Mr. Samnang later sent us an e-mail to say he bought a new motor for their tuk-tuk with our donation. I remember I saw the tuk-tuk at the orphanage – it looked in bad shape. With the new motor, the orphanage can now take the kids to the local schools every day. My sadness has turned to happiness for my new friends at COSO!
I urged my dad to make visits and donations to Asia orphanages and grade schools a regular part of our Kipling & Clark private tours. He agrees it’s a good idea! All of us can really help make a BIG difference when traveling to Asia and make a lot of kids a little happier.
Well, back to my homework!
Yours truly,
Zen Lynch/World Traveler, age 8
3.23.2009
Altruistic Travel
Based on the current global economic downturn, our need to reach out to those suffering and less fortunate than ourselves becomes much more acute. Although our clients choose to travel to Asia within the context of a custom, luxury experience, they also ask for transformative, life-changing activities where support for a local orphanage, grade school, or water well project makes a real change to people’s lives. Kind-heartedness and generosity to others is a universal attribute we all aspire to.
Bev, Zen, and I agree that our brief February 2009 Vietnam/Cambodia 7 day trip was instructional, especially in terms of the tangible ways we can improve the everyday lives of those wonderful children in Cambodia. We have integrated optional visits to various orphanages and grade schools for all of our clients embarking on our Southeast Asia private tours. Among all of the various custom activities we plan for our clients, these authentic, eye-opening visits give travelers the opportunity to connect and give back to those much less fortunate than ourselves. Notwithstanding the current severe world economic downturn, many of us in the U.S. are truly blessed with much opportunity, particularly compared to so many in Southeast Asia.
Our following 7 day Vietnam/Cambodia trip illustrates the way we have integrated altruism with our custom Asia private tours.
Bev, Zen, and I agree that our brief February 2009 Vietnam/Cambodia 7 day trip was instructional, especially in terms of the tangible ways we can improve the everyday lives of those wonderful children in Cambodia. We have integrated optional visits to various orphanages and grade schools for all of our clients embarking on our Southeast Asia private tours. Among all of the various custom activities we plan for our clients, these authentic, eye-opening visits give travelers the opportunity to connect and give back to those much less fortunate than ourselves. Notwithstanding the current severe world economic downturn, many of us in the U.S. are truly blessed with much opportunity, particularly compared to so many in Southeast Asia.
Our following 7 day Vietnam/Cambodia trip illustrates the way we have integrated altruism with our custom Asia private tours.
3.03.2009
Spring Break Trip to Vietnam & Cambodia
Greetings friends!
The Lynch family (Bev, our 8 year-old daughter, Zennia, and I) is back home in Chicago after a whirlwind 7-day Spring Break trip to Vietnam/Cambodia. Although one of our shortest, this particular trip to Asia turned out to be the most emotionally gratifying. Our experience with the COSO Orphanage and Wat Po Krom Grade School were awe-inspiring and indelible. The following is a brief re-cap of our 7 day trip:
February 15 - Saigon (via UA 895/869)
Hats off to UA for their new, innovative Lie-Flat Beds in Business Class – as Zen remarked, “Awesome!” Bev & Zen thoroughly enjoyed the expanded entertainment package (150 hours of movies, games!) viewed from the large +15” monitors. I settled for the full 180º truly lie-flat beds and the impressive LED reading light (similar to Japan’s First Class Green Car Bullet train seats’ lighting).
Similar to our past visits, our overnight at the Park Hyatt Saigon was restful and completely predictable: personal and meticulously attentive service. The room service, the spa, and concierge are all Asia world class, similar to the Mandarin in Hong Kong or any number of Four Seasons properties in the Pacific Rim. I particularly like the properties’ luxurious rugs: the perfect padding and firmness for morning stretching/exercises!
February 16 - Saigon/Hanoi
After a brief stop at one of Bev’s favorite Saigon modern art studios, we made a quick look/see at the former residence of U.S. Ambassador Henry Cabot Lodge. We now use this beautiful French-colonial home for clients wishing special, private dinners/entertainment.
Following a short 2 hour flight to Hanoi (via Vietnam Airlines 777 Business Class), we checked into the lovely, nostalgic French colonial Sofitel Metropole. We always love staying here. I can honestly say that the Sofitel Metropole has no peer in Hanoi – simply the best!
February 17 - Halong Bay
Notwithstanding the long drive from Hanoi (3.5 hours), the uniqueness and beauty of Halong Bay is well worth the drive. As remarked previously, Halong Bay’s thousands of sculptured limestone karsts evoke a Guilinesque feeling, with the added dimension of gleaming blue/green waters.
Our 1-night/2-day Halong Bay cruise aboard the luxury junk Halong Ginger was a great way to recover from any lingering effects of our jetlag. With only 24 cabins, the Halong Ginger service is personal and intimate, fostering a lively group dynamic among the varied group of international guests. The local seafood and freshly prepared Vietnamese vegetables were outstanding! Zen loved the foot massages!
February 18 - Halong Bay/Hanoi/Siem Reap (Cambodia)
Following our drive back to Hanoi (with our trusted guide, ‘Tiger” and driver Pluoc) and a short flight to Siem Reap, Cambodia, we spent the night at Amansara, formerly the guesthouse of King Sihanouk. Well-known by many of our clients and friends, Aman Resorts represent the pinnacle of world-class luxury hotel/resort hospitality. While Peninsula and Four Seasons rule the 5 star deluxe hotel category, Aman, alone, occupies the very elite level; small, extreme high-touch, singular, and personal. Our Pool Suite was Zen’s early morning personal water park, with Zen splashing in the 6 x 5 meter private pool (at 6:00am!). The dinner (lamb shanks with noodles) and breakfast served to us at Amansara was simple, tasteful and extraordinary.
February 19 - Siem Reap – COSO Orphanage
We have visited the various temples of Angkor on previous trips including Angkor Wat, Angkor Tom and Banteay Srei. I feel the various temples of Angkor represent the most amazing and enduring architectural achievement of any religious site in Asia. However, this visit to Cambodia was planned for Zen’s altruistic activities.
As previously arranged Bev, Zen and I were introduced early to our two travel companions from COSO Orphanage, 9 year-old Mary and 10 year-old Sopheak. Spending two days with these two lovely children was among the true blessings of our trip. Though limited English, Mary and Sopheak established a wonderful chemistry/rapport with Zen – their smiles and laughter were intoxicating – of course a morning swim and large-fries/shakes at the Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor did not hurt!
We were all later driven out to COSO Orphanage. Upon arriving at the orphanage, we were quite surprised to see the entire orphanage and staff gathered at the entrance for a happy, boisterous, heartfelt welcoming. After touring the facilities, COSO's Director, Sean Samnang, brought us up to a make-shift stage for a Khmer/Cambodian dance performance by 
the orphanage's children. Although absent the ornate costumes featured by the Aspara dance performers back at the Raffles Grand Hotel D'Angkor, the precision and slow graceful style of the children dancing was amazing. Despite all of their obvious disadvantages, these kids took great pride in their Khmer culture and had spent countless hours practicing their craft. After the dancing concluded, Zen bestowed our donation to COSO Director, Mr. Samnang (including Zen's own $182). She also handed out the many stuffed animals she brought from Chicago to all the children. Bev, Zen and I were overwhelmed by the genuine gratefulness and heartfelt appreciation the COSO Orphanage kids and staff extended to us on this bright sunny day. I cannot recall a more inspiring and gratifying afternoon.
February 20 - Siem Reap
Our first stop today was Sre ChangHoat Village outside Siem Reap. As part of the Angkor Well Project, Zen was donating a water well on behalf of her Second Grade Class at Francis Parker School, to the families of Mr. Dong Ley and Mrs. Bo Rort.
Among our clients wishing to give back to those less fortunate, the Angkor well project has become immensely popular. For a cost of USD400-600 per pump/well, based on the size and the distance of the water well, one may donate a well, thus providing fresh drinking water to a local village. By most estimates, less than 31% of rural Cambodians have access to safe water. Clients donating to the Angkor Well Project make a real difference in the daily lives of rural Cambodian families.
Following our very emotional day at COSO Orphanage, Bev, Zen, Mary, Sopheak and I had no idea what was to follow the next day at Wat Po Krom Elementary School.
Amazingly, all 500 children of the school, along with the teachers and staff, had gathered at the school’s entrance to form a long procession line welcoming our party. As all of us walked down the line, the students celebrated our arrival with applause and a local Khmer welcome song. After visiting various classrooms, the school’s staff and students proudly presented to us the many supplies they had purchased with our donation – three tables full of knapsacks, pens/pencils, writing books. The sincere, smiling faces and pervasive signs of warmth and friendship were overwhelming. Despite our donation of school supplies, I felt the extraordinary display of respect and honor extended to us was quite undeserved, especially in light of Wat Po Krom School’s many, many needs.
Eric Raisina – Our favorite in Cambodia for high-end clothing/textiles!
Before leaving for the airport in Siem Reap, Bev, Zen and I made a stop at the home/workshop of Eric Raisina. A French-Madagascar native who has settled in Siem Reap, Eric Raisina has become quite noteworthy in international design circles with his distinctive Cambodian silk clothing and accessories. (“Haute-texture”) Eric selected a beautiful red silk scarf for Zen (perfect for Chicago winters!), while Bev purchased a dazzling white rafia skirt. Eric’s engaging personality coupled with his very compelling silk designs, makes him our new favorite for singular Southeast Asia silk textiles.
Bev, Zen, and I agree that our brief 7 day trip was instructional, especially in terms of the tangible ways we can improve the everyday lives of those wonderful children in Cambodia. We have integrated optional visits to various orphanages and grade schools for all of our clients embarking on our Southeast Asia private tours. Among all of the various custom activities we plan for our clients, these authentic, eye-opening visits give travelers the opportunity to connect and give back to those much less fortunate than ourselves. Notwithstanding the current severe world economic downturn, many of us in the U.S. are truly blessed with much opportunity, particularly compared to so many in Southeast Asia.
Japan/April Cherry Blossoms
With Zen’s second school spring break coming in April, we will be returning to Japan for cherry blossoms and a private geisha dinner and dress-up – updates to follow!
Best to all and safe travels!
Randy
The Lynch family (Bev, our 8 year-old daughter, Zennia, and I) is back home in Chicago after a whirlwind 7-day Spring Break trip to Vietnam/Cambodia. Although one of our shortest, this particular trip to Asia turned out to be the most emotionally gratifying. Our experience with the COSO Orphanage and Wat Po Krom Grade School were awe-inspiring and indelible. The following is a brief re-cap of our 7 day trip:
February 15 - Saigon (via UA 895/869)
Hats off to UA for their new, innovative Lie-Flat Beds in Business Class – as Zen remarked, “Awesome!” Bev & Zen thoroughly enjoyed the expanded entertainment package (150 hours of movies, games!) viewed from the large +15” monitors. I settled for the full 180º truly lie-flat beds and the impressive LED reading light (similar to Japan’s First Class Green Car Bullet train seats’ lighting).
Similar to our past visits, our overnight at the Park Hyatt Saigon was restful and completely predictable: personal and meticulously attentive service. The room service, the spa, and concierge are all Asia world class, similar to the Mandarin in Hong Kong or any number of Four Seasons properties in the Pacific Rim. I particularly like the properties’ luxurious rugs: the perfect padding and firmness for morning stretching/exercises!
February 16 - Saigon/Hanoi
After a brief stop at one of Bev’s favorite Saigon modern art studios, we made a quick look/see at the former residence of U.S. Ambassador Henry Cabot Lodge. We now use this beautiful French-colonial home for clients wishing special, private dinners/entertainment.
Following a short 2 hour flight to Hanoi (via Vietnam Airlines 777 Business Class), we checked into the lovely, nostalgic French colonial Sofitel Metropole. We always love staying here. I can honestly say that the Sofitel Metropole has no peer in Hanoi – simply the best!
February 17 - Halong Bay
Notwithstanding the long drive from Hanoi (3.5 hours), the uniqueness and beauty of Halong Bay is well worth the drive. As remarked previously, Halong Bay’s thousands of sculptured limestone karsts evoke a Guilinesque feeling, with the added dimension of gleaming blue/green waters.
Our 1-night/2-day Halong Bay cruise aboard the luxury junk Halong Ginger was a great way to recover from any lingering effects of our jetlag. With only 24 cabins, the Halong Ginger service is personal and intimate, fostering a lively group dynamic among the varied group of international guests. The local seafood and freshly prepared Vietnamese vegetables were outstanding! Zen loved the foot massages!
February 18 - Halong Bay/Hanoi/Siem Reap (Cambodia)
Following our drive back to Hanoi (with our trusted guide, ‘Tiger” and driver Pluoc) and a short flight to Siem Reap, Cambodia, we spent the night at Amansara, formerly the guesthouse of King Sihanouk. Well-known by many of our clients and friends, Aman Resorts represent the pinnacle of world-class luxury hotel/resort hospitality. While Peninsula and Four Seasons rule the 5 star deluxe hotel category, Aman, alone, occupies the very elite level; small, extreme high-touch, singular, and personal. Our Pool Suite was Zen’s early morning personal water park, with Zen splashing in the 6 x 5 meter private pool (at 6:00am!). The dinner (lamb shanks with noodles) and breakfast served to us at Amansara was simple, tasteful and extraordinary.
February 19 - Siem Reap – COSO Orphanage
We have visited the various temples of Angkor on previous trips including Angkor Wat, Angkor Tom and Banteay Srei. I feel the various temples of Angkor represent the most amazing and enduring architectural achievement of any religious site in Asia. However, this visit to Cambodia was planned for Zen’s altruistic activities.
As previously arranged Bev, Zen and I were introduced early to our two travel companions from COSO Orphanage, 9 year-old Mary and 10 year-old Sopheak. Spending two days with these two lovely children was among the true blessings of our trip. Though limited English, Mary and Sopheak established a wonderful chemistry/rapport with Zen – their smiles and laughter were intoxicating – of course a morning swim and large-fries/shakes at the Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor did not hurt!
We were all later driven out to COSO Orphanage. Upon arriving at the orphanage, we were quite surprised to see the entire orphanage and staff gathered at the entrance for a happy, boisterous, heartfelt welcoming. After touring the facilities, COSO's Director, Sean Samnang, brought us up to a make-shift stage for a Khmer/Cambodian dance performance by 
the orphanage's children. Although absent the ornate costumes featured by the Aspara dance performers back at the Raffles Grand Hotel D'Angkor, the precision and slow graceful style of the children dancing was amazing. Despite all of their obvious disadvantages, these kids took great pride in their Khmer culture and had spent countless hours practicing their craft. After the dancing concluded, Zen bestowed our donation to COSO Director, Mr. Samnang (including Zen's own $182). She also handed out the many stuffed animals she brought from Chicago to all the children. Bev, Zen and I were overwhelmed by the genuine gratefulness and heartfelt appreciation the COSO Orphanage kids and staff extended to us on this bright sunny day. I cannot recall a more inspiring and gratifying afternoon.
Our first stop today was Sre ChangHoat Village outside Siem Reap. As part of the Angkor Well Project, Zen was donating a water well on behalf of her Second Grade Class at Francis Parker School, to the families of Mr. Dong Ley and Mrs. Bo Rort.
Among our clients wishing to give back to those less fortunate, the Angkor well project has become immensely popular. For a cost of USD400-600 per pump/well, based on the size and the distance of the water well, one may donate a well, thus providing fresh drinking water to a local village. By most estimates, less than 31% of rural Cambodians have access to safe water. Clients donating to the Angkor Well Project make a real difference in the daily lives of rural Cambodian families.
Following our very emotional day at COSO Orphanage, Bev, Zen, Mary, Sopheak and I had no idea what was to follow the next day at Wat Po Krom Elementary School.
Amazingly, all 500 children of the school, along with the teachers and staff, had gathered at the school’s entrance to form a long procession line welcoming our party. As all of us walked down the line, the students celebrated our arrival with applause and a local Khmer welcome song. After visiting various classrooms, the school’s staff and students proudly presented to us the many supplies they had purchased with our donation – three tables full of knapsacks, pens/pencils, writing books. The sincere, smiling faces and pervasive signs of warmth and friendship were overwhelming. Despite our donation of school supplies, I felt the extraordinary display of respect and honor extended to us was quite undeserved, especially in light of Wat Po Krom School’s many, many needs.
Eric Raisina – Our favorite in Cambodia for high-end clothing/textiles!
Before leaving for the airport in Siem Reap, Bev, Zen and I made a stop at the home/workshop of Eric Raisina. A French-Madagascar native who has settled in Siem Reap, Eric Raisina has become quite noteworthy in international design circles with his distinctive Cambodian silk clothing and accessories. (“Haute-texture”) Eric selected a beautiful red silk scarf for Zen (perfect for Chicago winters!), while Bev purchased a dazzling white rafia skirt. Eric’s engaging personality coupled with his very compelling silk designs, makes him our new favorite for singular Southeast Asia silk textiles.
Bev, Zen, and I agree that our brief 7 day trip was instructional, especially in terms of the tangible ways we can improve the everyday lives of those wonderful children in Cambodia. We have integrated optional visits to various orphanages and grade schools for all of our clients embarking on our Southeast Asia private tours. Among all of the various custom activities we plan for our clients, these authentic, eye-opening visits give travelers the opportunity to connect and give back to those much less fortunate than ourselves. Notwithstanding the current severe world economic downturn, many of us in the U.S. are truly blessed with much opportunity, particularly compared to so many in Southeast Asia.
Japan/April Cherry Blossoms
With Zen’s second school spring break coming in April, we will be returning to Japan for cherry blossoms and a private geisha dinner and dress-up – updates to follow!
Best to all and safe travels!
Randy
2.04.2009
Kids That Need Our Help...
As a fundamental part of our custom, private tour itineraries, we arrange for client visits to local schools and orphanages in Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, and Burma. Many of our clients, particularly the younger ones, find these activities eye-opening and truly authentic, a real-world contrast to their blessed, privileged life back in the U.S.
Based on the current global economic downturn, our need to reach out to those suffering and less fortunate than ourselves becomes much more acute. Although our clients choose to travel to Asia within the context of a custom, luxury experience, they also ask for transformative, life-changing activities where support for a local orphanage, grade school, or water well project makes a real change to people’s lives. Kind-heartedness and generosity to others is a universal attribute we all aspire to.
Along these lines, Bev, Zennia, and I will be returning to Cambodia this mid-February. We will be visiting one specific orphanage and a local elementary school outside Siem Reap (Angkor Wat). In both cases, there is much needed assistance for those lovely children. Once all has been qualified/vetted, we plan to focus our Southeast Asia philanthropic efforts on these two locations. After returning to Chicago, we will advise all of our friends and supporters of the institutions involved and what we can all do to improve the daily lives of these precious human beings.
- Randy Lynch
Based on the current global economic downturn, our need to reach out to those suffering and less fortunate than ourselves becomes much more acute. Although our clients choose to travel to Asia within the context of a custom, luxury experience, they also ask for transformative, life-changing activities where support for a local orphanage, grade school, or water well project makes a real change to people’s lives. Kind-heartedness and generosity to others is a universal attribute we all aspire to.
Along these lines, Bev, Zennia, and I will be returning to Cambodia this mid-February. We will be visiting one specific orphanage and a local elementary school outside Siem Reap (Angkor Wat). In both cases, there is much needed assistance for those lovely children. Once all has been qualified/vetted, we plan to focus our Southeast Asia philanthropic efforts on these two locations. After returning to Chicago, we will advise all of our friends and supporters of the institutions involved and what we can all do to improve the daily lives of these precious human beings.
- Randy Lynch
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